brightspark
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well i wouldn't use one . the 20 amp ones are much better and a named make . good solid screws and larger in sizeThat's a tlc picture
well i wouldn't use one . the 20 amp ones are much better and a named make . good solid screws and larger in sizeThat's a tlc picture
I was taught that any cable passing through a wall should be protected from physical damage, especially a cavity wall. I'd use 20mm plastic conduit to line the hole and a 20mm adapter into the back of the box.It's IP66. I have the box mounted outside now, and hole drilled for cable, but not connecting anything till am sure what to do. Your advice makes sense apart from replacing the junction-box.
I was planning to add a new one (coming from the existing
drilling hole in stone for cable to outside switch
well i wouldnt use one the 20 amp ones are much better and a named make
that wont work you have a live feed at both switches on the comon heres how it should be https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=2+way+light+wiring+diagram+uk&sxsrf=AOaemvKaDlHUV8I02RIZsmSqKpNsb2Y3qg:1638905400877&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=vQWNvFUC2Uq98M%2C4Bwd0RSS9QUdWM%2C_%3Bbk4QUjuTNT1xsM%2CrgUwMD_8Sl3qlM%2C_%3Bj9mUD4o17KN8QM%2CcpIg9P3HMUKf4M%2C_%3BTdaLT_zTxEP_CM%2CYORivMyic328hM%2C_%3BmoUWqIUMd7t_mM%2CK22L9COQytNI2M%2C_%3BCk5EXfen_R9FqM%2C2tKnhDQCJiRucM%2C_%3BIbtyPEoRCrcSIM%2CbMeUCTUH4ssuAM%2C_%3BG1MUJ7kw9t9BmM%2CRhzwZzRDRYrGsM%2C_%3BUmi0AfMP5Lbw0M%2C4Bwd0RSS9QUdWM%2C_%3BQ0255dO2pwuPFM%2CI5fUGpe9zn-vTM%2C_%3BKbBt-hsWqhj0RM%2CDV-3ZrlL8AbydM%2C_%3B_6KwNdYvsKEoGM%2CnFnXg8Tr7AhiOM%2C_%3B35fkQvb5ZECobM%2CYORivMyic328hM%2C_%3BvP12Dj5c4ucXSM%2CRhzwZzRDRYrGsM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kQARGtTS6chY-EukaU44V4VjgW9zg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi87vSxttL0AhWNOcAKHfm-BJkQ9QF6BAgBEAE#imgrc=vQWNvFUC2Uq98M and why are you using 2 joint boxes when one 6 way will do the job . nothing personal but your better off getting someone who knows how to wire them properlySo here's my 2nd drawing. You will notice I haven't updated the existing colours (ie brown and blue in switches and 3-core & earth between 2-way switches).
First reason for that is I'm mainly concerned with the routing/connections right now.
Secondly, looking at the instructions that came with my switch (British General WP12) it tells you to use 3-core cable (not 3-core & earth) between the 2-way switches. The switch-boxes do have earth-terminals in them but they don't indicate them being used here. The box ans switch are all plastic.
proposed set-up for new outside switch to floodlights
What he said ^^^^ !nothing personal but your better off getting someone who knows how to wire them properly
If I wasn't bothering I wouldn't be on here asking for advice.Why are you using the earth as the switch line.
Do it properly or don't bother.
Yes. I mentioned this in earlier posts (about the 3-core & earth) and why it's not in the drawing.Cable H needs to be 3 core & earth.
Cable C has an earth one end but not at the switch, this will leave both two way switches and cables unearthed. (possibly you just missed it off the drawing? )
If I wasn't bothering I wouldn't be on here asking for advice.
Not sure what you mean about using earth as switch line
No.that looks cheap and nasty is it a screwfix special
Yes.That's a tlc picture
I would start again with that from the joint box where the feed is. You ideally want a 3core and earth between the switches for the 3way switching. Then a 3core from the first switch to the joint box, this can the be the live feed in and two switch lives out to the two different sets of lights. This way you can join everything up in a nice wagobox and it will be a lot safer.Ok so I've done my drawing on Paint 3D (in 2D) and am quite pleased with it
Think I got everything right but not 100% about the connections inside the junction-box. I've definitely got the cables showing in the right positions but not quite sure if I've got the individual wires spot on....
If we call the terminal 1, 2, 3 & 4 (L-R) it seems 3 is empty and also the red-sleeved CPC in cable C would then be connected to live at one post and earth at another. Not sure if that would work.
Bottom-line is that the switched-cable for the floodlights goes straight to the floodlight (apart from the black connected to terminal 2) and the cable connecting the 2-way switches doesn't connect them directly. It stops-off at the junction-box