3D Nut sert kit recommendations?

[JOEPRO]

I am looking at trying some heat sert brass threads in 3d printed parts.

Looks like I need a digital low temp iron for that.

Does a kit like this look OK to try without much expense?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Printing-Digital-Soldering-Threaded-printing/dp/B0D2KB8743/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=vLGd1&content-id=amzn1.sym.a4ac6c4d-6ae7-4d95-b5e0-812c9dcfc72e%3Aamzn1.symc.fc11ad14-99c1-406b-aa77-051d0ba1aade&pf_rd_p=a4ac6c4d-6ae7-4d95-b5e0-812c9dcfc72e&pf_rd_r=5ZH1KSZKTBK3JTK4KSV3&pd_rd_wg=KxghU&pd_rd_r=3d7b11da-45ec-4226-87fb-0c5e11451462&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1

I am thining of printing a press for the iron also to set them in straight.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I just use my Weller soldering iron.

 

[Screwdriver]

Looks very similar to the cheap and cheerful ceramic soldering station I use for the same purpose.

The key issue is to get the right temperature not too hot and the right size hole.

I am not a believer in those press things, easy enough to push them in straight anyway.

<edit> you can always screw in a long bolt to pull/push it to perfection as it cools if required. The plastic remains malleable for a fair few seconds after insertion.

 

[Dozzer]

We use PEM fasteners at work, there are a few others, mainly ultrasonic, some moulded in, and only on structural foam mouldings do we used heat stake. We have tried many of the cheap inserts, but we have a pull-out spec that most fail, like many things, all are not equal.
The design/layout of the knurling is key in getting good strength.
But if strength is not an important factor, the cheap ones should be OK

https://www.pemnet.com/products-ove...aded-inserts-ultrasonic-heat-staking-inserts/

 

[Screwdriver]

I only ever use inserts if the fixture is one that comes on and off multiple times. Box lids, camera mountings, that sort of thing. I am not entirely convinced a brass insert is the strongest connection, even if fitted correctly.

Below 2-3mm thread diameter, they can screw themselves into the right size hole anyway. Larger threads up to say 10-12mm I generally tap directly into the plastic, much bigger and I'm happy to print the thread forms into the part.

 

[hotponyshoes]

I've been using the PEM stainless ones and the Tappex Multiserts with good results in fairly tough conditions.

Those cheap sets look like the cheap sets of plasma cutter consumables, half of them are probably fine but half are probably slightly deformed and you won't notice until you have fitted them

If it's just to have a selection on the shelf for odd jobs then you could just check them individually before fitting by running a bolt through them..

 

[Dr.Al]

I just use a soldering iron with a modified tip (made on the lathe). The modified tip isn't really necessary but it makes it a bit easier.

They're pretty idiot-proof in my experience. The brass inserts have a smooth shank bit at the bottom end. Size your hole to that dimension and then chamfer it a bit (in CAD). The chamfer stops any melted plastic coming up above the top surface and also makes it easier to insert the insert.

Push the insert's smooth shank into the hole (I usually find it a snug fit but can push it in with finger pressure), then put a soldering iron on it (or in it if you have a modified tip like mine or a tip that fits similarly) and push until it's slightly sub-flush. Leave it to cool.

I have the soldering iron turned up to maximum (it's a gas one so definitely not temperature controlled) and that works fine. I imagine that if the temperature is too low then it could melt too much of the plastic, but I can't imagine it's that critical as my iron has continued to work well even when the gas has been running out!

 

[Dr.Al]

Oh, and one set of (very cheap) inserts I bought had a few with slightly deformed threads, but that was easily sorted with a tap.