32mm crows foot, or some other tool?

[julianf]

That boiler that i changed the pump on the other day is loosing pressure. I guess its because i rotated one of the compression fittings a bit, as its that one where the leak is.

Here are a couple of photos, one close up, and then one further away so you can get an idea of access.

I dont want to disconnect everything (inc the flue) to get the side off to tighten that one up, so im thinking a 32mm crows foot.

£20 for one - i thought id just go on ebay and get one for a few quid!

Ive never really used crows foot sockets. Is that the tool for the job in this instance, before i buy one?

Thank you.

 

[Stupoty]

giant basin wrench ?

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tool...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413735686676&psc=1

 

[gaz1]

did you reconnect that 2.5 bar pressure thing as it can and will drip from it god help you if you blead it through that thing or even drained it from it

as it can and does leak often as its a pressure release valve not supposed to be touched

your pics arnt good enough you need to upload them from the original file on your phone as we can zoom in better

you will need 2 spanners on it one to hold the higher nut and one for the lower nut one to hold it in place while you tighten the other nut

did you also change the washers for new ?

famous last words as most people dont as ackward to get in there did you check it was clear of debris ?

all silly things to consider with that nut

 

[gaz1]

giant basin wrench ?

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tool...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413735686676&psc=1

yours is too fat you need thinner

https://www.toolstation.com/monument-2-jaw-adjustable-basin-wrench/p63844

 

[julianf]

yours is too fat you need thinner

https://www.toolstation.com/monument-2-jaw-adjustable-basin-wrench/p63844

How would that help me?

I'm thinking I need to go in from the top, in which case the T bar will just be in the way?

 

[julianf]

...just read the description! Says removable bar...

 

[julianf]

I've not touched the pressure relief.

The only reason this compression is leaking is that I rotated the pipe when I fitted the new pump. It was keeping pressure fine before.

The fitting on the exchanger itself is, I feel sure, 1"BSP, and then an inch bsp to 22mm compression fitting. It's the compression side of this fitting that I need to tweak.

 

[winchman]

What about cutting a ring spanner so its like a flare nut wrench then bending the handle to 90 degrees just after the head?

 

[Pete.]

did you reconnect that 2.5 bar pressure thing as it can and will drip from it god help you if you blead it through that thing or even drained it from it

as it can and does leak often as its a pressure release valve not supposed to be touched

your pics arnt good enough you need to upload them from the original file on your phone as we can zoom in better

you will need 2 spanners on it one to hold the higher nut and one for the lower nut one to hold it in place while you tighten the other nut

did you also change the washers for new ?

famous last words as most people dont as ackward to get in there did you check it was clear of debris ?

all silly things to consider with that nut

I have to drain my boiler through one of those valves because it's the only way and I have to strip and clean it every damned time. It gets backed up with little bits of hard black particles and won't seal afterwards.

 

[Kayos]

If you rotated the compression fitting then they usually don't nip back up, only option is to strip and add a bit of paste or swap the olive

 

[frank horton]

cant u take it to bits, modify it so that the pump is on the outside for next time....

 

[hunter27]

I made my own simple offset spanner out of a thick flat bar with two ears welded at 90 degrees to the edges of the bar (if that makes sense) and it will have to be a good fit on the fitting to stop the tool expanding when turned, I do prefer the adjustable ones as in the tool station link but they can be a faff to get positioned correctly.
If the nut has just worked a bit loose which is very common when working around compression fittings it probably just needs nipping up a bit.

 

[armalites]

Probably not the answer you are looking for but I suspect you could spend as much time chasing that as taking it apart and doing it right. At the moment the weather is fine but give it a few more weeks and it won't be as much fun if you want the heating running.

 

[gaz1]

I have to drain my boiler through one of those valves because it's the only way and I have to strip and clean it every damned time. It gets backed up with little bits of hard black particles and won't seal afterwards.

no its not might be now but you can fit a drain tap on your system at any time or

i would do by fitting a gate valve normal ones perish the rubber due to the heat

plumbers dont fit them as not a requested item

 

[julianf]

Why would one of these NOT work?

(I know the photo is of a 28mm one)

 

[gaz1]

...just read the description! Says removable bar...

mine had 3 removable bars before someone pinched my plumbing box and wouldnt return it

15mm 3/4" and another that would tighten nuts on sink traps or as known sink waste so handy saved pulling the pot out for the sink to fit a spanner on the older type sinks

 

[hunter27]

no its not might be now but you can fit a drain tap on your system at any time or

i would do by fitting a gate valve normal ones perish the rubber due to the heat

plumbers dont fit them as not a requested item

Glad I didn't work in Yorkshire then.
I have fitted hundreds if not thousands of CH boilers and water heaters and I can't think of one set of instructions that doesn't say fit a drain tap at the lowest point. I used to fit them wherever I thought one was needed to make my future life easier.
The rubber washers in them do harden especially if the installer didn't remove the washer before soldering near them, so expect to change it's washer after it has been used.
If you do use a gate valve fit a cap on it's outlet as they are mostly rubbish and cause more trouble than drain taps.
I would only ever use a PRV for draining if I was replacing the boiler anyway as they are notorious for not resealing.

 

[hunter27]

Why would one of these NOT work?

(I know the photo is of a 28mm one)

It would if it fits your compression nut but unfortunately fittings manufacturers seem to like using their own sizes externally so its common for them to be slightly different across flats.

 

[8ob]

Why would one of these NOT work?

(I know the photo is of a 28mm one)

Might be better off with a zapatap tool, tapered jaw crows foot with a bit more scope for different fittings.I have one for hydraulic fittings in awkward places.

 

[gaz1]

Glad I didn't work in Yorkshire then.
I have fitted hundreds if not thousands of CH boilers and water heaters and I can't think of one set of instructions that doesn't say fit a drain tap at the lowest point. I used to fit them wherever I thought one was needed to make my future life easier.
The rubber washers in them do harden especially if the installer didn't remove the washer before soldering near them, so expect to change it's washer after it has been used.
If you do use a gate valve fit a cap on it's outlet as they are mostly rubbish and cause more trouble than drain taps.
I would only ever use a PRV for draining if I was replacing the boiler anyway as they are notorious for not resealing.

mine have a couple of feet and then a normal stop tap on them as there far enough away from the heat thats for main drain of the system

I also prefer it run straight into the drain as well

I agree with the prv nothing but trouble with them and they can be expensive to replace