2 way switch (3 wire system) four lights in parallel ?

[MattH]

 

[brightspark]

View attachment 94753

filth

 

[angellonewolf]

if trying to use a pir these normaly use 240v for the switching and will need a 240v as well as neutral aswell as the feed from the live 12 volt feed

 

[Wedg1e]

this way, cracking diagram hey lol it is the way it will be set out on the boat.

View attachment 94739

Is that you, Rolf?

 

[Wedg1e]

if trying to use a pir these normaly use 240v for the switching and will need a 240v as well as neutral aswell as the feed from the live 12 volt feed

Alarm system PIRs are fed 12V from the alarm control panel so there's no reason why you couldn't use one of those and use the 'trigger' output to feed a contactor to put the lights on.

Regards domestic electrics, I'm appalled at how long it seems to be taking to move away from the 'old ways' of twin + earth and mechanical switches. Back in the 80s I built an interface so my Commodore VIC20 could control the house lights; you didn't need bulky wall switches but could use proximity sensors hidden under the wallpaper, PIRs, pressure mats etc. and of course the computer could run a program to simulate the house being occupied when you were out. Almost 40 years on and little has changed, yet with the energy saving cobblers we get rammed at us you'd think someone would be making the case in new builds for a central control panel with low-voltage inputs that could use spindly wire (saving copper as well as money) with the whole shooting match controlled by an Arduino or Raspberry Pi. Voice commands, internet control... it's all dead easy now. They're doing it with HIVE et al so the day must surely come.

 

[angellonewolf]

i agree with you wedg1e but if the person does not knew how to install 4 lights using a transfomer with the lights in parallel he might have a bit more problem using a pir and contactors to controll the 12v switching to contoll the lighting

 

[W.olly]

this way, cracking diagram hey lol it is the way it will be set out on the boat.

View attachment 94739

Mmmm.... Are they now 240V lamps, not 12VDC ones?

If so then, you're on the right track but you seem to have connected up both contacts on the first switch to live, which will mean the lights stay permanently on.

Gimme a sec and I'll try another diagram. By the way, if it's 240VAC mains (or, in fact, any AC supply) then there's not really a "+" and a "-"; it's live and return (or neutral in old-fashioned speak).

View attachment 94753

So this will work the same MattH

See a goodnight sleep and i seen what i did wrong as you said. It is for 12V DC, no mains and the LED down lighters are all 12vDC no renasformer used at all.

new diagram

 

[skotl]

You've got one too many wires - the L1 should not be linked together (you're already linking the L2s and the commons).

I'm not sure why you're still trying to draw this out - the later drawings, particularly Matt's and wookie's, will work for you

 

[wookie]

Regards domestic electrics, I'm appalled at how long it seems to be taking to move away from the 'old ways' of twin + earth and mechanical switches. Back in the 80s I built an interface so my Commodore VIC20 could control the house lights; you didn't need bulky wall switches but could use proximity sensors hidden under the wallpaper, PIRs, pressure mats etc. and of course the computer could run a program to simulate the house being occupied when you were out. Almost 40 years on and little has changed, yet with the energy saving cobblers we get rammed at us you'd think someone would be making the case in new builds for a central control panel with low-voltage inputs that could use spindly wire (saving copper as well as money) with the whole shooting match controlled by an Arduino or Raspberry Pi. Voice commands, internet control... it's all dead easy now. They're doing it with HIVE et al so the day must surely come.

The trouble is when you start hooking it up to the internet things like this happen http://metropolitan.fi/entry/ddos-attack-halts-heating-in-finland-amidst-winter , other than that I totally agree with you. There is going to be a big problem with "IoT" devices as nobody seems to be taking security seriously.

 

[W.olly]

You've got one too many wires - the L1 should not be linked together (you're already linking the L2s and the commons).

I'm not sure why you're still trying to draw this out - the later drawings, particularly Matt's and wookie's, will work for you

The reason is the one MattH shows is the 2 wire system. i have read and been told the 3 wire is a better way to go, more wire used but safer.

My diagram is how it will be set out in the boat, a switch each end and the four lights in the middle. In the original, better diagram it has the L1`s linked so i thought they should be.

Just what i read here

http://www.lightwiring.co.uk/two-way-switching-two-wire-control/

I was going to go with the 2 way switch 2 way at first but then i read read abotu the safety part, unless that does not matter on 12v just 240v ?

No problem with going two wire if its safe enough.

 

[Robotstar5]

I was going to go with the 2 way switch 2 way at first but then i read about the safety part, unless that does not matter on 12v just 240v ?

No problem with going two wire if its safe enough.

The linked article is about "borrowing" a neutral from a different circuit, normally applies to house wiring, so does not affect your installation, it's quite safe to go with the 2 wire method.