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Coming along nicely 
you need the starting handle next for the clips above the grille.
you need the starting handle next for the clips above the grille.
- Thread starter MrFluffy
- Start date
I've got a starting handle, but I'm missing the rubber inserts for the clips which I can print copies of in ninjaflex on the 3d printer, but its also too short, being a series 3 one and has to be lots longer to reach the crank + then a bit more to miss the nato hook when I fit it. So one of the todo list jobs is extending it 14" or so properly so in the rare event I do need it, it'll actually work. At the moment its too short to even sit right in the clips hence its not on.
What I don't have is the shelley jack winding handle that sits under the jack handle in the same clips, but I've seen them online repo so not so hard to find, just waiting for bank balance to recover. Just hoping they weren't 101 specific ones, or I'll be having to grow that too.
What I don't have is the shelley jack winding handle that sits under the jack handle in the same clips, but I've seen them online repo so not so hard to find, just waiting for bank balance to recover. Just hoping they weren't 101 specific ones, or I'll be having to grow that too.
Bit more noodling round, fitted the cheap and nasty (15 quid for camera + screen!) rear view camera monitor to avoid me reversing into things, as rearward vision is a bit crap to put it mildly. Its switched by a reversing switch fitted into the gearbox. While rover never fitted the 101 with it, they drilled and tapped the hole and fitted a blank so its just a case of screwing out the plug and screwing in a range rover switch.
Can't photo the screen proper with a smartphone, but rearview, I like the superimposed image to try and gauge distance a bit, discarded transit I keep nicking stuff off, my 90 and the kids sit and ride, my wife's on the case to get the transit shifted and things tidied up, I have other priorities as usual :-)
Can't photo the screen proper with a smartphone, but rearview, I like the superimposed image to try and gauge distance a bit, discarded transit I keep nicking stuff off, my 90 and the kids sit and ride, my wife's on the case to get the transit shifted and things tidied up, I have other priorities as usual :-)
BrokenBiker
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Bit more noodling round, fitted the cheap and nasty (15 quid for camera + screen!) rear view camera monitor to avoid me reversing into things, as rearward vision is a bit crap to put it mildly. Its switched by a reversing switch fitted into the gearbox. While rover never fitted the 101 with it, they drilled and tapped the hole and fitted a blank so its just a case of screwing out the plug and screwing in a range rover switch.
Can't photo the screen proper with a smartphone, but rearview, I like the superimposed image to try and gauge distance a bit, discarded transit I keep nicking stuff off, my 90 and the kids sit and ride, my wife's on the case to get the transit shifted and things tidied up, I have other priorities as usual :-)
bit off topic but i use that exact screen on one of my night vision systems for lamping with...just a heads up, if you ever turn it on and find the screen is really grainy, go through menu and do a reset...seems to sort it for me...only does it once every few months and may just be my screen
I shall bear that in mind thanks, quite common for cheap nasty firmware on these to have odd quirks like that.
Not that much happened it appears, but thats because I went for a longer test drive on the farmers private roads and decided the brakes were appaling. I took all the brakes off for a look, decided I didnt like the look of one of the rebuilt slave cylinders and changed it for a brand new one, and the brake pipe was seized and snapped the pipe. So repipe one corner in new kunifer.
Then bled up, still crap, so looked in depth at the issue, and some browsing round at people's woes on the 101 forum it became apparent its possible to not only have the brake shoes on the wrong side on the backplate which causes issues, its also possible to have them on the wrong side of the vehicle as the frictions are different and are arranged so the servo action of the single drum drags the pad in harder.
Follow the manual carefully paying attention to where leading edges were everyones advice was. So I found it and did exactly that instead of copying how the shoes were originally fitted on it. Wrong shoes wrong place causing them to retract too much each time when pressed so firm pedal second press. I did that, and managed to get a small stoppie out of it testing, scary but fun. Might need a tweak to balance once theyre bedded in better as it comes round a bit when the back end is airborne
Also tiny led lights arrived, almost invisible when not in use, but by 'eck theyre bright when you need them.
While fitting the reversing leds, I tidied up and bare metalled/straightened/repainted the ends of the xmember, and then of course the rest of it looked crap.
So time to stop dancing round the issue of the bumperettes having to come off, flap disk down to metal on the really suspect looking areas and, its not that bad. It needs two small patches to be solid. So I cut them both into shapes and will tig the repair pieces in flush tomorrow, provided the gods of argon are with me. While the bumperettes were off, I straightened the bent bits from where it had been reversed into things and sand blasted them, and a blob of weld where the stirrup step touches the holder because it had worn and allowed the stirrup too close to the xmember to get my size 11 in, & they'll be all nice and freshly painted monday pm when the paint arrives.
Hot day due tomorrow, mid 30's forcast and I'll be manning the tig most the day, at least I don't have to wear that blasting hood for hours like today.
Not that much happened it appears, but thats because I went for a longer test drive on the farmers private roads and decided the brakes were appaling. I took all the brakes off for a look, decided I didnt like the look of one of the rebuilt slave cylinders and changed it for a brand new one, and the brake pipe was seized and snapped the pipe. So repipe one corner in new kunifer.
Then bled up, still crap, so looked in depth at the issue, and some browsing round at people's woes on the 101 forum it became apparent its possible to not only have the brake shoes on the wrong side on the backplate which causes issues, its also possible to have them on the wrong side of the vehicle as the frictions are different and are arranged so the servo action of the single drum drags the pad in harder.
Follow the manual carefully paying attention to where leading edges were everyones advice was. So I found it and did exactly that instead of copying how the shoes were originally fitted on it. Wrong shoes wrong place causing them to retract too much each time when pressed so firm pedal second press. I did that, and managed to get a small stoppie out of it testing, scary but fun. Might need a tweak to balance once theyre bedded in better as it comes round a bit when the back end is airborne
Also tiny led lights arrived, almost invisible when not in use, but by 'eck theyre bright when you need them.
While fitting the reversing leds, I tidied up and bare metalled/straightened/repainted the ends of the xmember, and then of course the rest of it looked crap.
So time to stop dancing round the issue of the bumperettes having to come off, flap disk down to metal on the really suspect looking areas and, its not that bad. It needs two small patches to be solid. So I cut them both into shapes and will tig the repair pieces in flush tomorrow, provided the gods of argon are with me. While the bumperettes were off, I straightened the bent bits from where it had been reversed into things and sand blasted them, and a blob of weld where the stirrup step touches the holder because it had worn and allowed the stirrup too close to the xmember to get my size 11 in, & they'll be all nice and freshly painted monday pm when the paint arrives.
Hot day due tomorrow, mid 30's forcast and I'll be manning the tig most the day, at least I don't have to wear that blasting hood for hours like today.
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Not heard of the stirrup step, how does it work?
If you look at this first arrived pic, you can see on the right hand bumperette theres a U of metal hanging down, you use it exactly like you use a stirrup in a horse saddle setup, put your foot up into the stirrup and use it to swing your other leg up into the inside of the rear of the vehicle.
I can do it and not step on the tailgate which is in a bad shape because it looks like lots of people havent in the past. The bit where it contacted the bumper was a bit worn out and it sat too close to the body to get the ball of my foot in easily so I've just blobed it up to compensate for the pivot wear.
Straightening the tailgate damage out is on the later part of the todo list...
And heres a something else new, its a range rover lt95 gearbox, complete with overdrive in the back of my mates vw van in shropshire who has very kindly collected it + paid for from a collect only ebay uk auction (thanks Jon if you read this!). So that gives me higher drive range for more comfortable cruising, and/or overdrive also for 140 pound. Now I just have to work out how to get it from shropshire to central france!
I can do it and not step on the tailgate which is in a bad shape because it looks like lots of people havent in the past. The bit where it contacted the bumper was a bit worn out and it sat too close to the body to get the ball of my foot in easily so I've just blobed it up to compensate for the pivot wear.
Straightening the tailgate damage out is on the later part of the todo list...
And heres a something else new, its a range rover lt95 gearbox, complete with overdrive in the back of my mates vw van in shropshire who has very kindly collected it + paid for from a collect only ebay uk auction (thanks Jon if you read this!). So that gives me higher drive range for more comfortable cruising, and/or overdrive also for 140 pound. Now I just have to work out how to get it from shropshire to central france!
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Thanks for the explanation.
Whoohoo mr postman arrived with stuff, but not the alloy to make bits out of, but this made up for it. A 28 pound invisible electronic ignition unit.
You take this
And do this to it :-
Check the coil is wired correctly for polarity with a volt meter, then connect the red up to the +ve on the coil and black to where the points wire went originally. If you have a ballast resistor the red goes before the resistor, but in this case someone has already bypassed and removed the ballast resistor setup. Then take strobe, loosen distributer clamp and start, and eventually it started and the strobe showed 30deg of advance. Move round of the distributor to 6deg advance and it immediately sounded smoother & less sneezy at tickover.
Turn off, restart and now it fires as soon as the first cylinder is past compression.
Given its about as expensive as 2 sets of replacement points and condensor, and its immediately apparent its running smoother, I'd say that was 30 quid well invested. I've got a dual curve electronic ignition unit but I want to keep all that for when the lpg goes on, so this is perfect. And you can't even see its there.
You take this
And do this to it :-
Check the coil is wired correctly for polarity with a volt meter, then connect the red up to the +ve on the coil and black to where the points wire went originally. If you have a ballast resistor the red goes before the resistor, but in this case someone has already bypassed and removed the ballast resistor setup. Then take strobe, loosen distributer clamp and start, and eventually it started and the strobe showed 30deg of advance. Move round of the distributor to 6deg advance and it immediately sounded smoother & less sneezy at tickover.
Turn off, restart and now it fires as soon as the first cylinder is past compression.
Given its about as expensive as 2 sets of replacement points and condensor, and its immediately apparent its running smoother, I'd say that was 30 quid well invested. I've got a dual curve electronic ignition unit but I want to keep all that for when the lpg goes on, so this is perfect. And you can't even see its there.
Well I cant do pics of the xmember repair, because offspring manning the camera didnt do a great job and I could put up lots of pictures of thumbs or out of focus shots of random things but thats it.
What I can do is a pic of it done. Well apart from the bumperttes which I havent finished yet. Points to the person that spots the missing mounting hole where I welded in new metal but haven't redrilled it yet...
Got meself a nice copy fake chunky alloy cast grille badge. Its not a landie without a black oval is it?
Found this + a low profile dual plane offenhauser manifold (its a 390cfm holley) digging round the spares shed for something else, be rude not to right?
Just investigating the float bowl tweaks they need to work properly off road, as stock theyre a bit pants with fuel sloshing issues on steep inclines messing carburation up. This, a 3.9 cam, a set of sd1 big valve heads I found in the stash too and a new set of larger bore exhausts should wake the motor up nicely to pull those higher ratio gears and overdrive on the autoroute.
What I can do is a pic of it done. Well apart from the bumperttes which I havent finished yet. Points to the person that spots the missing mounting hole where I welded in new metal but haven't redrilled it yet...
Got meself a nice copy fake chunky alloy cast grille badge. Its not a landie without a black oval is it?
Found this + a low profile dual plane offenhauser manifold (its a 390cfm holley) digging round the spares shed for something else, be rude not to right?
Just investigating the float bowl tweaks they need to work properly off road, as stock theyre a bit pants with fuel sloshing issues on steep inclines messing carburation up. This, a 3.9 cam, a set of sd1 big valve heads I found in the stash too and a new set of larger bore exhausts should wake the motor up nicely to pull those higher ratio gears and overdrive on the autoroute.
octo0072000
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just a thought regarding the brakes you fitted one new tyre make sure it goes on the back or better still put two new ones on the front.
new tyre will be softer that the old rubber.
old rubber will be rock hard could cause you braking problems i know you have had problems i would imagine the tyres not helping the matter
all the best keep the pic's coming
new tyre will be softer that the old rubber.
old rubber will be rock hard could cause you braking problems i know you have had problems i would imagine the tyres not helping the matter
all the best keep the pic's coming
I think it needs bedding in as everything is new, drum brakes are always crap when you first fit new shoes, and this has new drums and other variables so not too worried about it yet.
Anyway, not been idle, chasing a vacumn leak as a co2 sniffer showed it was running weak and getting hot and idle all over the place. Eventually traced it back to this, the diff lock engagement knob.
How this works is it connects intake manifold vacumn to one of two ports on a actuator on the diff housing area of the transfer box, sort of like a giant turbo exhaust poppet actuator. So it has 3 holes, and connects either one or the other to the 3rd. Simple as eh? I priced up a replacement, its not even bespoke to the 101, it was fitted on the range rover classics with 4 speed boxes (so older one), and its listed at most places as a staggering 264 quid for a new one. Theres a new old stock one on ebay for 60 quid, which isnt the end of the world but no guarantee's its not suffered degradation from storage being 35+ years old now.
So I took it apart to replace the O rings or whatever, and I'm staggered at how crap it is! It has a rubber block , with a channel milled into it that the slidy bit lines up with one or the other exhaust hole. A bit of metal pushes it towards the flat mating face.
In mine there's corrosion on that face which has spaffed up the sealing surface of the rubber block, and the spring has long since lost most of its spring to keep it all sealed up. I could make another rubber block + spring but... really? what a crap design.
What we can get for 25 quid is one of these 5-2 way mechanical valves. Designed for about 10 million cycles and capable of 8 bar use. I'll machine the original diff lock knob to fit this and nobody will be any the wiser its been fitted with a valve that actually might seal as you can't see the valve when its in position.
I wanted to mount the review camera a bit better, it looked like a afterthought stuck on the end of a stalk like it was, so drew this up
Fed that into 3d printer and bingo, the black bit you can see on the dash here. Holds the screen at a good angle and looks designed as part of the vehicle.
On the dash thing, previously it had 3 holes where the 24v model has its ammeters and extra gauges, but on mine just 3 holes. So I made a cover for it in ally to mount a few extras in without altering the dash, but while working on it, the folly of having a polished ally dash soon became apparent with it reflecting the sun into my eyes, so instead I opted to coat it with a offcut from the seats in a sort of 70's homeage to a vinyl dash. Still can't make up my mind if I like it, or it offends my taste but its done and easy to undo. I also have usb sockets since I don't smoke, but use sat nav etc quite often, so more practical.
Also if you peek at the dash shot, you might notice a discreet little mp3/radio unit to the left of the central heater box. I like noise sometimes when driving, and military vehicles don't come with them but I find myself listening to my own stuff on usb or sd cards mostly so pointless having anything more. It was a 15 quid cheapy off ebay and I made a bracket to hold it from sheet ally, as I couldnt drill into the heater unit to mount it as its got a heater element in it. Its got a cheesy little remote control that I'll probably loose pretty quick too but don't need that to operate it.
Needed speakers then, found some old pioneer ones stripped out a long dead car in a filing cabinet in the junk room but where to fit them where they wouldn't be on show but could be heard? Solution, behind the fold forward seat backs where wiring could be ran to them and completely hidden. They actually sound pretty good, but you get a bit of a back massage if you crank them up and have lots of bass in the track. Maybe I should patent the idea, ****su hightech intergrated teletactor system. Make for a interesting acronym
Care package has arrived, complete with overdrive unit hanging off the back, but I got good news by mail yesterday, my application for a certificate of individual conformity has been approved and will arrive by rego'd post soon, which means I just need to take a french mot (controle technique) and hot foot it the prefecture clutching the CT paperwork and the Cert of conformity, pay some insane amount of tax to register it and I can be on the road! So I'll take my time as I have to order a repo winch lever and cable and repurpose it and make some brackets to operate the overdrive. Note I don't have to PASS the CT, just have taken one!!! If it fails, normally you get 3 months to rectify any outstanding problems and go for a contra visit to have just those items checked. Once that's done, its a CT every 5 years then.
Anyway, not been idle, chasing a vacumn leak as a co2 sniffer showed it was running weak and getting hot and idle all over the place. Eventually traced it back to this, the diff lock engagement knob.
How this works is it connects intake manifold vacumn to one of two ports on a actuator on the diff housing area of the transfer box, sort of like a giant turbo exhaust poppet actuator. So it has 3 holes, and connects either one or the other to the 3rd. Simple as eh? I priced up a replacement, its not even bespoke to the 101, it was fitted on the range rover classics with 4 speed boxes (so older one), and its listed at most places as a staggering 264 quid for a new one. Theres a new old stock one on ebay for 60 quid, which isnt the end of the world but no guarantee's its not suffered degradation from storage being 35+ years old now.
So I took it apart to replace the O rings or whatever, and I'm staggered at how crap it is! It has a rubber block , with a channel milled into it that the slidy bit lines up with one or the other exhaust hole. A bit of metal pushes it towards the flat mating face.
In mine there's corrosion on that face which has spaffed up the sealing surface of the rubber block, and the spring has long since lost most of its spring to keep it all sealed up. I could make another rubber block + spring but... really? what a crap design.
What we can get for 25 quid is one of these 5-2 way mechanical valves. Designed for about 10 million cycles and capable of 8 bar use. I'll machine the original diff lock knob to fit this and nobody will be any the wiser its been fitted with a valve that actually might seal as you can't see the valve when its in position.
I wanted to mount the review camera a bit better, it looked like a afterthought stuck on the end of a stalk like it was, so drew this up
Fed that into 3d printer and bingo, the black bit you can see on the dash here. Holds the screen at a good angle and looks designed as part of the vehicle.
On the dash thing, previously it had 3 holes where the 24v model has its ammeters and extra gauges, but on mine just 3 holes. So I made a cover for it in ally to mount a few extras in without altering the dash, but while working on it, the folly of having a polished ally dash soon became apparent with it reflecting the sun into my eyes, so instead I opted to coat it with a offcut from the seats in a sort of 70's homeage to a vinyl dash. Still can't make up my mind if I like it, or it offends my taste but its done and easy to undo. I also have usb sockets since I don't smoke, but use sat nav etc quite often, so more practical.
Also if you peek at the dash shot, you might notice a discreet little mp3/radio unit to the left of the central heater box. I like noise sometimes when driving, and military vehicles don't come with them but I find myself listening to my own stuff on usb or sd cards mostly so pointless having anything more. It was a 15 quid cheapy off ebay and I made a bracket to hold it from sheet ally, as I couldnt drill into the heater unit to mount it as its got a heater element in it. Its got a cheesy little remote control that I'll probably loose pretty quick too but don't need that to operate it.
Needed speakers then, found some old pioneer ones stripped out a long dead car in a filing cabinet in the junk room but where to fit them where they wouldn't be on show but could be heard? Solution, behind the fold forward seat backs where wiring could be ran to them and completely hidden. They actually sound pretty good, but you get a bit of a back massage if you crank them up and have lots of bass in the track. Maybe I should patent the idea, ****su hightech intergrated teletactor system. Make for a interesting acronym
Care package has arrived, complete with overdrive unit hanging off the back, but I got good news by mail yesterday, my application for a certificate of individual conformity has been approved and will arrive by rego'd post soon, which means I just need to take a french mot (controle technique) and hot foot it the prefecture clutching the CT paperwork and the Cert of conformity, pay some insane amount of tax to register it and I can be on the road! So I'll take my time as I have to order a repo winch lever and cable and repurpose it and make some brackets to operate the overdrive. Note I don't have to PASS the CT, just have taken one!!! If it fails, normally you get 3 months to rectify any outstanding problems and go for a contra visit to have just those items checked. Once that's done, its a CT every 5 years then.
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I had a similar problem with the vacuum switch, the pipes had hardened at the ends and kept slipping off 'til I trimmed a few mm off back to the softer part of the pipe. Never had the switch fail, probably due to actually using diff lock unlike 99% of RR's 
Really enjoying this project and your solution to problems. Great work on finding out about the brakes. It's so easy to chase your tail with things like that so kudos for recognising the brake shoes were fitted the wrong way round. A cheap save as well.
I also liked your discovery and fix of that leaky valve.
Looks like it's coming along nicely. Thanks for taking the time to document it all. I have my own project that I try and update so I know the effort involved!
I also liked your discovery and fix of that leaky valve.
Looks like it's coming along nicely. Thanks for taking the time to document it all. I have my own project that I try and update so I know the effort involved!
Thanks for the feedback, yes it feels like its coming along finally now. Although I expect when I drive it more things will go wrong, such is the nature of pressing a 40 year old vehicle back into service.
I got this in the post while I was out 2 hrs getting a argon refil , I hope this is the most difficult part of the process done. Its so ornate I think I'm supposed to frame it or keep it tidy, not fold it into my wallet to hand the controle tester with oily fingerprints on like I usually do with official paperwork.
Its the certificate of conformity, that everything needs to be registered for the road in France. Without this piece of paper its simply not possible to register something. So a big major step ticked off the list.
I got this in the post while I was out 2 hrs getting a argon refil , I hope this is the most difficult part of the process done. Its so ornate I think I'm supposed to frame it or keep it tidy, not fold it into my wallet to hand the controle tester with oily fingerprints on like I usually do with official paperwork.
Its the certificate of conformity, that everything needs to be registered for the road in France. Without this piece of paper its simply not possible to register something. So a big major step ticked off the list.
Right bit more, get all those annoying jobs done ready for controle.
Paperwork is for 6 seats but I have 5, so I need to make a extra one. Fortunately due to the way the rear seats were manufactured this isn't as bad a job as it would be normally.
The seats themselves are aluminium frames and main rails, with grab handles in steel. So the end grab handle can be just bolted further along the rail instead to accomodate two seats and a second frame assembled from profile.
First mitre the profile and jig it up on a big block and clamp it. Keeping it square is the key to sucess I reckon here.
The frame slowly comes together. My bench is a tip, Im off back out in a minute for last bit of the weekend to tidy it!
I haven't done any ally tig in a while, its sunken slightly at the begining where I moved too slow but dialed my hand traverse back & its reasonable if a little dirty looking.
I've ran out of metal to finish the side pieces of the back extension after not buying a wide enough offcut for the job, so that will have to wait.
Looks factory, but need to recover in the sand vinyl now to match & make a extra cushion. And finish the edges of the rear backpiece of course.
Had a test drive on tarmac, and I cant get on with the front end handling, its scary bouncy, Its not so much vauge direction wise which they tend to be due to steering box steering with translator shafts and all sorts of slack points but bumps unsettle it so bad it tries to sproing off the road. I think its because the shocks are todgered but I have no real way to test as its a bit difficult to bounce test to say the least and I don't know anyone with a shock dyno but I took one off and it doesnt feel like its got a lot of damping when moved off the vehicle. It needs new shock bushes too as the originals are crumbling in the eye.
So, as nobody seems to make new 101 shocks I've decided to not splurge 300 quid on a set of nos originals with no guarantee's off the bay, and instead ordered two terrafirma disco2 +2 rear shocks for a much more wallet friendly 65, as they match up to the 101 front dimensions on travel and end fitment, and that way I can run matching TF's on the rear but think disco1 will be the correct fitment for there. I'll see how it drives then. A couple of people recommend this having done it but a whole lot of experts say its not the correct way.
I don't need correct, I need not finding the ditch over every bump right now...
Paperwork is for 6 seats but I have 5, so I need to make a extra one. Fortunately due to the way the rear seats were manufactured this isn't as bad a job as it would be normally.
The seats themselves are aluminium frames and main rails, with grab handles in steel. So the end grab handle can be just bolted further along the rail instead to accomodate two seats and a second frame assembled from profile.
First mitre the profile and jig it up on a big block and clamp it. Keeping it square is the key to sucess I reckon here.
The frame slowly comes together. My bench is a tip, Im off back out in a minute for last bit of the weekend to tidy it!
I haven't done any ally tig in a while, its sunken slightly at the begining where I moved too slow but dialed my hand traverse back & its reasonable if a little dirty looking.
I've ran out of metal to finish the side pieces of the back extension after not buying a wide enough offcut for the job, so that will have to wait.
Looks factory, but need to recover in the sand vinyl now to match & make a extra cushion. And finish the edges of the rear backpiece of course.
Had a test drive on tarmac, and I cant get on with the front end handling, its scary bouncy, Its not so much vauge direction wise which they tend to be due to steering box steering with translator shafts and all sorts of slack points but bumps unsettle it so bad it tries to sproing off the road. I think its because the shocks are todgered but I have no real way to test as its a bit difficult to bounce test to say the least and I don't know anyone with a shock dyno but I took one off and it doesnt feel like its got a lot of damping when moved off the vehicle. It needs new shock bushes too as the originals are crumbling in the eye.
So, as nobody seems to make new 101 shocks I've decided to not splurge 300 quid on a set of nos originals with no guarantee's off the bay, and instead ordered two terrafirma disco2 +2 rear shocks for a much more wallet friendly 65, as they match up to the 101 front dimensions on travel and end fitment, and that way I can run matching TF's on the rear but think disco1 will be the correct fitment for there. I'll see how it drives then. A couple of people recommend this having done it but a whole lot of experts say its not the correct way.
I don't need correct, I need not finding the ditch over every bump right now...
octo0072000
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stupid question what tyre pressures are you running if it's bouncing all over lower pressures a bit and try it
28lb front/31 rear as recommended by the military data specs. The shock bushes crumbled away in my hands when I dismounted one, so needed changing anyway and as every other thing with a rubber seal in it has leaked or required attention, I have every reason to suspect the dampers will be shot/perished too.
Air valve came today, its tiny, m6 knob fitting.
Sawn the original knob off the broken valve, its pinned to a flat strip of metal with a roll pin so not tapped to dismount easy.
And.. it was hollow inside. So printed off a adaptor bush on the 3d printer and glued it into the original knob to give me a m6 thread.
Done with pushfit fittings, and nobody need be any the wiser. I need to repipe the original vacumn lines anyway as theyre brittle with age, so this was the ideal time for it.
Air valve came today, its tiny, m6 knob fitting.
Sawn the original knob off the broken valve, its pinned to a flat strip of metal with a roll pin so not tapped to dismount easy.
And.. it was hollow inside. So printed off a adaptor bush on the 3d printer and glued it into the original knob to give me a m6 thread.
Done with pushfit fittings, and nobody need be any the wiser. I need to repipe the original vacumn lines anyway as theyre brittle with age, so this was the ideal time for it.
Shocking update
Super cheap +2 terrafirma TF disco2 rear shocks arrived, well 60 quid is super cheap compared to the 300 someone is asking for some oem 40 year old originals on ebay anyway. And they have the same travel as the 101 fronts as expected from the data. This 101 shock behaved really odd when dismounted, it had no damping in one direction until pumped up a few times, then it randomly had damping, then didnt then it was back but only in one direction etc, so something going on inside the shock valving area. I reckon its going to be much improved with the TF shocks on when I test it.
Shock mounting is a 21mm stub with a split pin + washer to stop the dampers falling off.
Holes in TF damper dont match, and the centre bush is bonded to the silentblock rubber. This is for a bolt style compressed mounting so needs a inner bush to work unlike the 101 units which can just be rubber etc.
Use lathe to persuade silentblock id to be 21mm.
Yay, though I'm waiting for some split pins the right size to arrive before shimming up the eyes finally so they have no side play.
Super cheap +2 terrafirma TF disco2 rear shocks arrived, well 60 quid is super cheap compared to the 300 someone is asking for some oem 40 year old originals on ebay anyway. And they have the same travel as the 101 fronts as expected from the data. This 101 shock behaved really odd when dismounted, it had no damping in one direction until pumped up a few times, then it randomly had damping, then didnt then it was back but only in one direction etc, so something going on inside the shock valving area. I reckon its going to be much improved with the TF shocks on when I test it.
Shock mounting is a 21mm stub with a split pin + washer to stop the dampers falling off.
Holes in TF damper dont match, and the centre bush is bonded to the silentblock rubber. This is for a bolt style compressed mounting so needs a inner bush to work unlike the 101 units which can just be rubber etc.
Use lathe to persuade silentblock id to be 21mm.
Yay, though I'm waiting for some split pins the right size to arrive before shimming up the eyes finally so they have no side play.
