And looking at that picture after posting it, I can see why mid speed isnt working too. Spot the deliberate wiring error. Not mine I hasten to add...
Edit, I now have both speeds working on the blower switch. Painless and Luxury.
- Thread starter MrFluffy
- Start date
Edit, I now have both speeds working on the blower switch. Painless and Luxury.
bill_gj
Tired and irritable
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I started at Ilford in 1969 and left in 1973.
I worked in SPMD, CMD, Marine Div and IDU
bill_gj
Tired and irritable
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- Essex, UK
That was it, except it was a complete hard top / van thing.
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- Birmingham
Neat circumvent
I'm rather surprised though at that feature being on a 'fighting vehicle' - I can imagine many situations in an active situation when you need to keep going that little bit more even with a hole in your sump
I work with an ex REME mechanic and I'm amazed at some of the "get you out of it" fixes/bodges he's seen or done, they normally work on the principal that equipment can be replaced but men can't.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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I doubt our paths crossed then. I was doing the rounds for a couple of years as part of my HND thick sandwich and then started full time in CEL in 1975.
bill_gj
Tired and irritable
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Pathetic money, but a great place to work, so many different things going on.
So I'm pressing on, but waiting for spares and all the post here seems delayed still from the weather so its blocking getting the engine back together and rebuilding the front swivels on the axle. But there's plenty to be getting on with for sure. So new fluids in the gearbox and transfer case time, and wow I love working on this.
You'd think it would be awkward given where the engine is but someone thought a lot about things and made some good choices. Its like working on the jcb and taking the cab floor plates out to get better access, only the bit you take out is on dzus fasteners so its a 2 mins job!
Happily the gearbox oil looked the right consistency to be 20/50 (correct!), but the transfer box looked black and was too thick and it stank like used engine oil, probably meaning it had 75w gear oil probably with some moly treatment in it. I suspect to try and quieten the rumble from the worn out front propshaft splines. I filled both with 20/50 as recommended. If you run heavy oil the gearbox has a oil pump and it shears the drive with the force to pump it, and oil transfers between the transfer box and gearbox over time so 20/50 in both. And changed the broken gearbox mount while I'm in there.
While I'm doing the box fluids, the 101 never came with a reversing light, you don't need one when the driver has a gun presumeably. But you can add a range rover switch unit to the gearbox and fit one. Ok its not original, but our yard is pitch black and unlit so I'd quite like to be able to see where I'm backing at night to avoid hitting the archery backstop transit or something. I've also ordered a tiny camera so I can see behind me and ran wiring in the length of the car.
Also, they don't come with a fog light. Probably I could argue the toss with the CT inspector telling him its a classic vehicle, but I'd rather just fit one and not find some econobox jammed underneath my rear xmember one foggy night. But has to look right for the vehicle. So fitted a nato FV fog light from a military defender I think? It matches the original (front) lights and on the dash is a series landrover fog pull switch with telltale and motif so it matches the rest of the switchgear.
I was going to draw out a adapter mount that fits where the hole for the rear winch fairlead goes and mill a mount out on my bridgeport converted cnc mill, but decided its been a while since I did it the manual way.
It uses something near enough to m6 on 56.5 hole centres so laid out on a square bandsawed from 10mm 6061 plate, and drilled a central 32mm hole in this with a spade bit in the pillar drill because my manual mill is in bits although I had to peck drill with it because my drill press itself started overheating and throwing its overload switch out, this big hole made clearance so the military rubber light body could pass. I then tapped it m4 so the light mount could screw the plate and that was it, job done. I quite enjoyed doing it this way for a change though.
Found a near match for the original paint on the front, although the sides are a completely different shade, both to the front and to each other in places! I'm going to buy a few litres of paint and do it completely so its all the same shade of sand once its legal here. but for now took the lights off to touch up the front panel here and there, and found these. Guess its new lenses time. At least it explains why they had to be fought off with water pump pliers and the side light was shining at a funny angle. Thats not my overspray on them either...
Frustrated at having to wait for stuff still, not fantastic amount of real progress, just annoying little jobs off the list.
You'd think it would be awkward given where the engine is but someone thought a lot about things and made some good choices. Its like working on the jcb and taking the cab floor plates out to get better access, only the bit you take out is on dzus fasteners so its a 2 mins job!
Happily the gearbox oil looked the right consistency to be 20/50 (correct!), but the transfer box looked black and was too thick and it stank like used engine oil, probably meaning it had 75w gear oil probably with some moly treatment in it. I suspect to try and quieten the rumble from the worn out front propshaft splines. I filled both with 20/50 as recommended. If you run heavy oil the gearbox has a oil pump and it shears the drive with the force to pump it, and oil transfers between the transfer box and gearbox over time so 20/50 in both. And changed the broken gearbox mount while I'm in there.
While I'm doing the box fluids, the 101 never came with a reversing light, you don't need one when the driver has a gun presumeably. But you can add a range rover switch unit to the gearbox and fit one. Ok its not original, but our yard is pitch black and unlit so I'd quite like to be able to see where I'm backing at night to avoid hitting the archery backstop transit or something. I've also ordered a tiny camera so I can see behind me and ran wiring in the length of the car.
Also, they don't come with a fog light. Probably I could argue the toss with the CT inspector telling him its a classic vehicle, but I'd rather just fit one and not find some econobox jammed underneath my rear xmember one foggy night. But has to look right for the vehicle. So fitted a nato FV fog light from a military defender I think? It matches the original (front) lights and on the dash is a series landrover fog pull switch with telltale and motif so it matches the rest of the switchgear.
I was going to draw out a adapter mount that fits where the hole for the rear winch fairlead goes and mill a mount out on my bridgeport converted cnc mill, but decided its been a while since I did it the manual way.
It uses something near enough to m6 on 56.5 hole centres so laid out on a square bandsawed from 10mm 6061 plate, and drilled a central 32mm hole in this with a spade bit in the pillar drill because my manual mill is in bits although I had to peck drill with it because my drill press itself started overheating and throwing its overload switch out, this big hole made clearance so the military rubber light body could pass. I then tapped it m4 so the light mount could screw the plate and that was it, job done. I quite enjoyed doing it this way for a change though.
Found a near match for the original paint on the front, although the sides are a completely different shade, both to the front and to each other in places! I'm going to buy a few litres of paint and do it completely so its all the same shade of sand once its legal here. but for now took the lights off to touch up the front panel here and there, and found these. Guess its new lenses time. At least it explains why they had to be fought off with water pump pliers and the side light was shining at a funny angle. Thats not my overspray on them either...
Frustrated at having to wait for stuff still, not fantastic amount of real progress, just annoying little jobs off the list.
Just to update, yes, it has a bash plate but this also has a weld above that directly on the tank itself, and it doesn't look factory. Its neat enough just not that consistant in where its ran. I'll try to get a photo. I don't really mind it being repaired provided there's no pinholes or porosity in the welding. If it does start weeping, I'll buy one of the stainless tanks and be done with it forever as long as it doesnt vibration fracture or something
I can't buy the sheet, fillter rods and argon here to make my own for what the stainless tanks cost to buy.
And today mr courier arrives, but not with spares apart from a set of core plugs to replace two that are weeping.But this arrived.
I had the 101 parked out in the yard one day and it started raining and the canvas tilt, well, lets just say all the electrical problems in the cab were probably down to it alowing water ingress, its patched in a few places and leaking too, and its the "wrong" colour. So when this came on ebay, I risked the wrath of mrs fluffy at the amount I've spent on stuff for this vehicle and bid on it and got it for under half list. They will also do matching sand coloured straps for the implement mounts at the front, so I'll be ordering some of them as a search for the correct brass ends to terminate the straps and make our own has turned out to cost more than exmoor will sell me the manufactured ones for.
Its a brand new sand coloured lhd complete canvas tilt, used only as demonstration on exmoor trim's 101 to show off the colour.
Sods law it doesnt match the paint I did, the original paint, but is close to one of the shades on the sides. So I will take the tilt to a paint shop and ask them to mix a batch of paint near it in shade but a tad lighter (to allow for the fading that I imagine will happen quickly at first) when I repaint to make it all one colour. I think it will look smart and be the finishing touch & I can put the tatty olive one back on for green laning days when its at risk of getting damaged.
I had the 101 parked out in the yard one day and it started raining and the canvas tilt, well, lets just say all the electrical problems in the cab were probably down to it alowing water ingress, its patched in a few places and leaking too, and its the "wrong" colour. So when this came on ebay, I risked the wrath of mrs fluffy at the amount I've spent on stuff for this vehicle and bid on it and got it for under half list. They will also do matching sand coloured straps for the implement mounts at the front, so I'll be ordering some of them as a search for the correct brass ends to terminate the straps and make our own has turned out to cost more than exmoor will sell me the manufactured ones for.
Its a brand new sand coloured lhd complete canvas tilt, used only as demonstration on exmoor trim's 101 to show off the colour.
Sods law it doesnt match the paint I did, the original paint, but is close to one of the shades on the sides. So I will take the tilt to a paint shop and ask them to mix a batch of paint near it in shade but a tad lighter (to allow for the fading that I imagine will happen quickly at first) when I repaint to make it all one colour. I think it will look smart and be the finishing touch & I can put the tatty olive one back on for green laning days when its at risk of getting damaged.
And another minor annoyance, the spare wheel door is flapping about and held by the tilt elastic because the catch is broke.
Little things like this bug me.
I was going to put a anti luce fitting on it to retain it as I couldnt find the correct catch for sale, but then I spied a series landrover underseat locker catch and it didnt half look familiar. Rivetted it in place and bobs yer uncle.
Little things like this bug me.
I was going to put a anti luce fitting on it to retain it as I couldnt find the correct catch for sale, but then I spied a series landrover underseat locker catch and it didnt half look familiar. Rivetted it in place and bobs yer uncle.
octo0072000
Member
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- 6,033
- Location
- south yorks
Looking good keep the pictures coming
I cut that dodgy oil pressure switch apart tonight for a autopsy out of curiosity. Just put it in the lathe and machined off the rolled lip and it came apart easily. It's literally a housing, a diaphragm which pushes a button attached to a spring with two contacts.
One contact is NC and the diaphragm pushes it out of contact at a pressure set by the spring rate, and a second it makes with, with increased pressure. The fancy bit is in the the spring as its a progressively wound one to give this progressive behaviour.
It also suggests why they're short lived, tiny contact area, no snap into contact mechanical flip flop action and bounce/carboning up of the
contacts as a result. I could have cleaned the two contacts and put this one back into service, if I hadn't have destroyed the crimp opening it up.
One contact is NC and the diaphragm pushes it out of contact at a pressure set by the spring rate, and a second it makes with, with increased pressure. The fancy bit is in the the spring as its a progressively wound one to give this progressive behaviour.
It also suggests why they're short lived, tiny contact area, no snap into contact mechanical flip flop action and bounce/carboning up of the
contacts as a result. I could have cleaned the two contacts and put this one back into service, if I hadn't have destroyed the crimp opening it up.
Well more parts arrived, so back into it.
First sorted the fuel pump crap out once and for all, new in tank oem pump. It doesn't sound like your in a jacuzzi on airbubbles now when the fuel pump motor is running. Rebuilt it onto the original hardware, note the dents in the original pump casing...
Then, change the thermostat because its been sticking shut, and the usual happens. Yes a bolt shears instead of coming undone, but in a really awkward place, it couldnt be the top one that I could get to drill out with a left handed bit could it. So If I wanted to drill this out, either the carbs and whole manifold would have to come off, or the distributer & front timing chest with the oil pump etc in it.
Also, given this was the inlet manifold and the carbs were full of petrol, warming it up with a blowlamp or welding nuts onto the stud probably wouldn't have been a good idea...
But we have the technology, which is a tapping hammer and punch to shock it, a pump sprayer with a 50/50 acetone/atf mix in it and my trusty weird facom brevette mole style grips. And nestling to the right of them, the extracted bolt. Little sod. Usual technique, shock the remains with the punch while hitting it with the squirty sprayer, then after I got bored clamp the stud remains with the brevettes and work it out.
Boxed off, excited but one more job before coolant can go in proper, the leaking core plugs. Drilled them, punched a chisel into the weakened plug and extracted the two leaking ones. Go to fit shiny new v8 block core plugs, find seller has sent v8 manifold core plugs which are 1 1/4" not 1 1/2" in diameter. So foiled again. I have to wait for the correct ones to arrive now before running it up. I was toying with turning some plugs on the lathe to save waiting, but when I did that on the jcb as a temporary measure, they're still in place 4 years later...
First sorted the fuel pump crap out once and for all, new in tank oem pump. It doesn't sound like your in a jacuzzi on airbubbles now when the fuel pump motor is running. Rebuilt it onto the original hardware, note the dents in the original pump casing...
Then, change the thermostat because its been sticking shut, and the usual happens. Yes a bolt shears instead of coming undone, but in a really awkward place, it couldnt be the top one that I could get to drill out with a left handed bit could it. So If I wanted to drill this out, either the carbs and whole manifold would have to come off, or the distributer & front timing chest with the oil pump etc in it.
Also, given this was the inlet manifold and the carbs were full of petrol, warming it up with a blowlamp or welding nuts onto the stud probably wouldn't have been a good idea...
But we have the technology, which is a tapping hammer and punch to shock it, a pump sprayer with a 50/50 acetone/atf mix in it and my trusty weird facom brevette mole style grips. And nestling to the right of them, the extracted bolt. Little sod. Usual technique, shock the remains with the punch while hitting it with the squirty sprayer, then after I got bored clamp the stud remains with the brevettes and work it out.
Boxed off, excited but one more job before coolant can go in proper, the leaking core plugs. Drilled them, punched a chisel into the weakened plug and extracted the two leaking ones. Go to fit shiny new v8 block core plugs, find seller has sent v8 manifold core plugs which are 1 1/4" not 1 1/2" in diameter. So foiled again. I have to wait for the correct ones to arrive now before running it up. I was toying with turning some plugs on the lathe to save waiting, but when I did that on the jcb as a temporary measure, they're still in place 4 years later...
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- Birmingham
It always seems to be 2 steps forward and 1 step back with old Land Rovers
With regard to the brakes, the two friend of mine who have 101s run servo vacuum expansion bottles from Series 3s. Apparently it makes a big difference to the braking as the servo is quite small. It's like adding a second tank to a compressor only it's a vacuum. One of them tows a trailer with a 2a Lightweight and he said the difference is night and day with the expansion bottle.
I have a alternator off a diesel transit with a vac pump on the back of it and was thinking of fitting that and dedicating that to the brake servo and leaving manifold vac for engaging the difflock etc. Might be a plan once its registered and I can start to tweak it here and there.
Acetone/atf works like magic, and I always have lots of acetone in stock because I do a bit of 3d printing and use it to clean the bed off and make abs tack to the bed etc.
To be fair, its more the fault of the ebay seller who's sent me a apology this am and I think will be contacting the other people who bought his engine block core plugs. And, its partly my fault for relying on the description and not checking it in detail once it arrived too. Neither of which is rover specific.It always seems to be 2 steps forward and 1 step back with old Land Rovers
Its actually not that bad considering its 40 years old, you have to keep that in perspective. You could probably take a 10 year old car from the auctions and find more mechanically wrong with it and end up having to cut large rotted sections out the bodywork to boot. At least this is from a era where it was made to be fixed and not thrown away.
