I only have mild steel wire with appropriate gas at home but we have stainless at work (BMW garage) although it has never been used. Think it was BMW minimum standards made us get it for welding flexi repairs into particle filters but we sub them out for some reason. Need to have a look...
Sorry if this has been covered before. If you need to weld stainless steel to mild steel do you use stainless wire and appropriate gas? Also are the settings similar to what you would use for welding mild to mild. Thanks.
Thanks for all the replies and advice. It is the MB15 I have so will have a play on some scrap the same thickness as the car and then tackle the job.
I do have a thread running in the "Projects" section "Automotive" titled Peugeot 304 S Cabriolet Restoration so will post progress pictures...
Thanks for the replies. Looks like an 8mm hole and start from the centre then. Will try on some scrap pieces first to make sure I get sufficient penetration without blowing holes.
Mee. Can you elaborate on wire positioning and what you mean by MB25 and MB15 please. Thanks.
Hi guys,
Just watched a good youtube video by Craig Hopkins about plug welds. He started the weld on the edge of the outer panel and then moved in to the centre of the inner panel. His welds looked superb.
I have always (not done much) started at the centre of the inner panel and worked out...
Start of a thread on my 1975 Peugeot 304 S Cabriolet. First pic as it came off the trailer doesn't look too bad but as you can see it is rotten. It has a hard and soft top.
Front subframe didn't look bad until after sandblasting, both rear outer mountings needed cutting off and making new...
Thanks for that optima21. That is what I was going to do with the box section. Will get it up and running soon. Just hope it is not so good that I want to redo what I have already done by hand but I think that might be the case. Should really start a thread on the old car for everyones interest...
Bought one from Ebay for £145 so £20 cheaper than direct. They are on there all the time for £165 buy it now and for £145 auction so just need to watch for one with no bids.
Found info on Youtube about strengthening them so will do that before trying to make new floors for my 1975 Peugeot 304...
Looking at buying the above mentioned tool. Manufacturer states it will cope with up to 0.9mm mild steel (20 gauge). I have read that it needs to be strengthened to prevent flexing. Does anyone know if it could cope with 1.2mm (18 gauge) when suitably strengthened.
Thanks guys.
Using MIG at home on a 41 year old car and set at 80A maximum. At work we has an outside company come in to 'train' 2 of us for this ISOFIX recall as we have to be certified as competent and welding at about 120A we both felt it was too dark.
Nothing to compare it with unless we take it to our bodyshop and try a comparison. It's a new helmet just bought for repairing the ISOFIX brackets on about 200 BMW X5 as BMW have cocked the job.
It is this one Phantom XL MK11...
Currently using a helmet I borrow from work when I need it. It is adjustable from 9 to 13 plus 4 for grinding. I find it (and the lads at work) too dark on the lowest setting of 9. It is actually better on the grinding setting although that is a bit bright.
Can you recommend a helmet (£60 ish)...
Emmm no. Going to use 2mm for the inner and outer sills and 1.2 or 1.5mm for the centre sill and floor. Being a convertible it needs strength in that area.
(1975 Peugeot 304 Cabriolet)
Thanks for the replies. I hear what you are saying about wanting more power at a later stage and will give it some thought. Going down to 20A could be useful for bodywork but 30A should be ok I think. Still undecided. Pics above are just a part of what I am doing.
Just about to start restoring a 41 year old car. Have been looking at the R-Tech 180 but don't need that much power and would prefer to spend less.
Should be able to get trade discount on a Sealey unit if they are any good.
GYS Smart Mig 162??
Overall quality ( of welder and weld )is more...