Search results for query: Tungsten grinding

What grit diamond wheel is it? I'm wearing a groove in my cheapo wheel green grit wheel ...

2.4mm Binzel 2% lanth or E3 does absolutely everything AC and DC for me. No real preference between the two. I have a diamond wheel in my bench grinder, not for the quality of grinding, but because it's fast, runs cool and doesn't wear! I've never had to adjust the grinding guide I made for...

Yes but any normal grinding wheel will do tig tungsten, if you get one a compareable grit. The diamond resin wheels are just as easy to put a groove in and ruin for anything else. I have a diamond wheel for it but generally I always use the bench grinder original wheels, trying to use them up...

-It mentions Adjustable pre/post-flow gas time presume for MIG, perhaps with remote switch it can switch gas control to trigger, even though arc is lift controlled. Don't see reason for 5 pin plug no mention of it in any of the blurb, ring SIP We put a solenoid in an old BOC stick welder as...

This works and has an enclosure to contain the dust. They are available in lots of places but don't always have the cover. Has a useful "cut" mode in case of a dip. https://kowelding.com.au/shop/tig/misc-tig/perfangle/ I've also used these...

I note there are quite a few pointing upwards which I admit does concern me but some people seem to swear that's the way (on youtube etc) at least by doing it tha way as described if it does catch it'll be thrown to the floor with no chance of being scooped inside the guard. I note also from...

I bought one of those a while back, I use it with a 3d printed head and diamond disc for tungsten grinding. Works pretty well.

I'm pretty sure that's the same one I use (the Makita). It's a lovely thing to use, although I still use my Bosch mains one (which isn't variable speed) when I've got lots of flap discing / grinding to do - saves changing batteries and it's a lot lighter than the Makita. I've also got an...

I'll try a smaller cup. I think I just guessed it :laughing: All the torch fittings are new so O rings should be okay. Its was closest to hand. The metal is junk so I'm not expecting miracles.....

i'm a beginner too (my first 14l argon cylinder is not finished yet..), but from what i read around, with 1,6 tungsten i would use 5 cup, 6lpm flow on mild steel..double check your torch for beeing sure it's gas tight. brake cleaner: it's nasty stuff (as well as acetone and cellulose thinner...

I did clean the panel with flap wheel and brake cleaner but it's a junky bit of steel cut from an old cabinet so not super clean. Should I use a smaller cup for 1.6mm Tungsten / 2.0mm plate? I've got a selection of cups. I've just bought a couple of packs of 1.6mm Tungstens - most of my work...

these welds look very similar to my first one welds.also .settings was similar to mine.. to cure the problem of gray\dull looking welds, i did the following: first of all i cleaned the plate (mild steel) with cellulose thinner, then sanded to shine metal with the grinder and a thick grinding...

I'm not a TIG expert but I would suggest: Increase the current to 120 amps with 2,4 mm tungsten Increase gas flow to 10 l/m with current cup The filler might be freezing the puddle. Jack

i'm laying beads on 3mm mild plate, 5 cup with 1,6 tungsten 85 - 90 amps 6lpm \0,5 sec pregas\6 sec postgas argon stream: using no filler the beads seem have good appearence, ( nice shine tracks) but when using filler rod (1,6mm mild steel) they are dull and not shine, also tried with stainless...

Use the edge of a thin ( 1/2/3mm ) cutting disk, just hit the top of the weld bead, or the tacks/spot/plug/puddle welds. Additionally, get a powerfile ( "finger file" ), or try a double-cut tungsten carbide burr in an air or electric die grinder. Flap disks tend to slide over the beads and thin...

I've very limited experience in welding ally but you normally use quite a lot of amps for it, would that not be too much for a 1.6 tungsten, only good for up to 120 amps? I should think a 2.4 or 3.2 with correct tip grinding would be more suitable.

Thanks very much for the advice. My current spate of dipping is from trying to weld some small diameter 'stabbings' - something like this (practice piece - 8mm tube was sawn off after welding): I think I'm getting the best welds by trying to keep a *really* short arc, right down into the...

Leaving contamination on the tungsten causes the arc to wander, bits come off and end up in the weld pool further adding to the woe. Isn't too much trouble to work around once you have a grasp of it, but often too much for a learner to cope with. Not to mention bad practice, better to learn the...

Depends how fussy you are, and how likely you are to dip straight away again :D you can get away with just cleaning the end, and grinding the rough off further up, as the arc will eventually burn off the aluminium if its not on the tip. It's not "right" but you can get away with it if the...

I'm still messing around practicing on thin aluminium. My tungsten end up looking like this quite often: Is it sufficient to re-grind the tip to give something like the (blurry, sorry) photo below? If I need to remove it all, is it worth trying to grind it off, or is it a case of cutting...