hotponyshoes
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So you can make a seal that will go right through the new piece.of aluminium that will be the same o/d as the recess for the original one?
- Thread starter mangocrazy
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Agroshield
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To save on stamps, ink up the face of the caliper and potato print onto paper. Post the paper.
If you do produce the dxf, could you send it to one of the Chinese houses for a quote including shipping. It is always educational to see what they can do.
Agroshield
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By that logic, it does seem strange that a standard set of motorbike brake pads has less than 0.6mm of wear on each of them. Please could you link to the pads that fit the calipers so we can see the thickness of hte friction material on a new one.
mangocrazy
Italian V-twin nutjob
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Here's a photo of both halves of the RH caliper. Only the 'inside' half of the caliper has a groove machined to accept the sealing o-ring; you can just make out the witness mark of the o-ring on the 'outside' half. The groove on the inside half is machined to a depth of 1.2mm to accommodate the o-ring. With the 1.2mm distance piece in place the groove depth increases to 2.4mm, so I propose to use some EPDM mat with a nominal depth of 2.5mm to make o-rings to seal the two halves plus distance piece. I already have the EPDM mat, and an 'o-ring' made in this manner has worked perfectly on a different set of calipers for well over a thousand miles.
With regards to machining down brake pads, the main problem is clamping a brake pad so that skimming of either the backing or the pad material can take place. Any movement means the pad is effectively scrap. I will not be doing this, so that particular avenue is closed. It will not happen.
With regards to machining down brake pads, the main problem is clamping a brake pad so that skimming of either the backing or the pad material can take place. Any movement means the pad is effectively scrap. I will not be doing this, so that particular avenue is closed. It will not happen.
hotponyshoes
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That's how I'd do it.
Make the hole in the spacer plate the same outer diameter as the recess and fit a linger seal right through.
If it was a 10mm thick spacer (like the old princess ones) I'd counterbore one side of the spacer and use 2 seals.
You could thin down either the discs or pads (if that's still above the minimum thickness) but then A, you'll have to replace them more often and B, you'll have to do that job every time they are replaced. Doesn't make sense to do that when it's simple to just widen the caliper once and be done with it.
mangocrazy
Italian V-twin nutjob
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This is an end on view of the ventilated disc the calipers will be used with. There's no way I'd be skimming the disc, especially as it's the only one of its type I've ever seen.
And this is a view of the disc and carrier.
And this is a view of the disc and carrier.
Machining brake pads - in a previous life we spent quite a long time doing that for a well known UK brand - something obviously cocked up in the manufacturing process, meaning a lot of pads (for a car) needed reducing.
If that's the only disc like it you've seen . . when it wears out . . .?
If that's the only disc like it you've seen . . when it wears out . . .?
mangocrazy
Italian V-twin nutjob
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Some time in the (hopefully) near future it will become SEP (someone else's problem). I'm currently readying the bike for sale. To be fair, there's loads of life left in the discs, so it's not like I'm dumping a problem on someone else. I'm reasonably sure that the discs were an HRC 'kit' part. The original carriers were magnesium, which is pretty trick, even today.
