- Thread starter Kram
- Start date
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,778
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Made another teardrop. this one is heading off to Istanbul tomorrow.
Screwed up on the laser etching not that it matters as when fitted it is not even visible but I really need to get the camera recalibrated after I moved it a while back.
Screwed up on the laser etching not that it matters as when fitted it is not even visible but I really need to get the camera recalibrated after I moved it a while back.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
On the DCT bikes you can use the rear brake in a similar fashion as you would a conventional clutch so if offroad it may be advantageous to have both feet down.
Lots of people fit handlebar rear brake lever on the left side but the teardrops available commercially just have the lower hole and when the brake pressure is applied they often flex a bit and leak so I designed up the clamp part to hold it solid to the master cylinder.
Pic of the one on my bike.
hose fitted.
Handlebar master cylinder.
Also made up some reservoir caps for mine.
Left side.
Right side with also a lid for the parking brake. DCT can't be left in gear so needs a parking brake.
Lots of people fit handlebar rear brake lever on the left side but the teardrops available commercially just have the lower hole and when the brake pressure is applied they often flex a bit and leak so I designed up the clamp part to hold it solid to the master cylinder.
Pic of the one on my bike.
hose fitted.
Handlebar master cylinder.
Also made up some reservoir caps for mine.
Left side.
Right side with also a lid for the parking brake. DCT can't be left in gear so needs a parking brake.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Yes but it is open to the rear brake, it only closes off when pressing the rear brake pedal.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Yes, I can use either hand or foot. Some people remove the foot brake but I preferred to keep it and still mostly use the foot brake.
indy4x
Forum Supporter
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- 3,528
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
Quick modification
This is a fuel pump for an A Series, I bought it for my Dads A30 but the brass unions were too short for the new pump and bottomed out on the hex before clamping the olive. Couldn't get any longer fittings locally so took 2mm off each port on the mill
This is a fuel pump for an A Series, I bought it for my Dads A30 but the brass unions were too short for the new pump and bottomed out on the hex before clamping the olive. Couldn't get any longer fittings locally so took 2mm off each port on the mill
E T
Member
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- 607
- Location
- Netherlands
I made a start at making a new left hand acme screw for the Southbend cross slide. I had just about enough bearing bronze left to make two new nuts with the 7/6"-10tpi left hand acme tap I bought a couple of years ago.
Then on to the scew. Thanks to the good info from Agroshield in the 'worn nuts' thread. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/advice-regarding-my-worn-nuts.142278/ I kind of new what to do.
I made two test pieces. The first with the right hand threading tool In its original state and a second with a 5° chamfer milled on the bottom side to get the right helix angle. I don't really know what the angle of the original insert shim is, but it's probably somewhere between 1 and 2 degrees. For a 7/16"-10 LH acme I need about -4° so I went for a 5° chamfer.
According to my calculations the thread depth for a class 2 7/16"-10 acme should be 1.52-1.56mm. With the original tool I had to fed in 1.9mm to get a good fit with the new nuts. With the chamfered tool the infeed was 1.58mm. Close enough me thinks.
The threading went very well. I used straight infeed with the cross slide and full length material to mimic the needed end result and with the travelling steady I had no chatter issues at all.
Then on to the scew. Thanks to the good info from Agroshield in the 'worn nuts' thread. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/advice-regarding-my-worn-nuts.142278/ I kind of new what to do.
I made two test pieces. The first with the right hand threading tool In its original state and a second with a 5° chamfer milled on the bottom side to get the right helix angle. I don't really know what the angle of the original insert shim is, but it's probably somewhere between 1 and 2 degrees. For a 7/16"-10 LH acme I need about -4° so I went for a 5° chamfer.
According to my calculations the thread depth for a class 2 7/16"-10 acme should be 1.52-1.56mm. With the original tool I had to fed in 1.9mm to get a good fit with the new nuts. With the chamfered tool the infeed was 1.58mm. Close enough me thinks.
The threading went very well. I used straight infeed with the cross slide and full length material to mimic the needed end result and with the travelling steady I had no chatter issues at all.
George Dennis
Member
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- 47
- Location
- Mid Wales UK
Pete.
Member
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- 14,895
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- Kent, UK
Nice work. What are they DA collets?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Yes, really meant for drilling/reaming etc I think but they do fine for milling as well as long as you are not too heavy handed.
George Dennis
Member
- Messages
- 47
- Location
- Mid Wales UK
I don't know what they were originally for? I've got a draw full of them and thought, Save wasting them I'd use them, I had considered selling them it one point but did know know the name of them?
George Dennis
Member
- Messages
- 47
- Location
- Mid Wales UK
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Keep them, they do fine for milling as long as you do not try to be brutal with them. From my understanding they were primarily meant for drilling/tapping/reaming where the force is along the axis and were not meant for heavy side loads. I have loads of them, don't use them much now as I only have one collet holder suitable for them for use on the Chiron (specialised taper on that) and the Beaver mill which I have lots of collet holders for DA never gets used at all now.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,778
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
George Dennis
Member
- Messages
- 47
- Location
- Mid Wales UK
Thank you for the information, my milling machine is a sharp universal, so I can't really take heavy cuts with it, so they should be okay? I do have other collet holders but none that went up to the size I wanted to use
