Huskvana 141 chain saw-will not tick over.

[mart]

I’ve owned this chain saw from new. I can no longer get it to tick over. I get it to start, but have to keep my finger on the trigger to keep it running. I’ve cleaned the air filter, tried it without the air filter, put clean fuel in. I’ve even tried running it without the chain bar & chain. It just dies when I let go of the throttle. Maybe the carb needs adjusting, but it had never been touched from new as there was never any need.

The thing is the PDF instruction manual says do not adjust it yourself as damage can be done

From manual...

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
Your carburettor is equipped with limiter
caps. Carburettor adjustment is a complicated
task. We recommend that you take
your unit to an Authorized Service Dealer.
Damage will occur if you turn the needles beyond
the limiter stops.

 

[rtbcomp]

Is there a throttle stop that's out of adjustment?

 

[johnik]

prob an air leak,see if you can get a carb rebuild kit,also check the slow running jet,a nano bit of dirt will clog the jet hole.

 

[mart]

Is there a throttle stop that's out of adjustment?

In the (online) manual it labels the choke as a choke/fast idle lever.
If I leave the choke pulled out after starting the engine keeps running, but if I push the choke in that will cause it to die also. There appears to be only one adjustment screw for the carb (No7)so I am assuming that is for the mixture. It seems unusual not to have a throttle stop screw.

1. Cylinder Cover
2. Front Handle
3. Front Hand Guard
4. Starter Cover
5. Chain Oil Tank
6. Starter Handle
7. Carburetor Adjusting Screw
8. Choke Control
9. Rear Handle
10. ON/OFF Stop Switch
11. Fuel Tank
12. Muffler
13. Bar Tip Sprocket
14. Saw Chain
15. Saw Bar
16. Chain Catcher
17. Chain Brake Assembly
18. Rear Hand Guard
19. ThrottleControl/Trigger
20. Throttle Lock
21. Bar/Chain Adjustment Tool
22. Chain Tensioning Screw
23. InstructionManual
24. Guide Bar Cover
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=h...firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=5QftWJ_OFsiGgAbVgJ74Cg

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Carb diaphragm ?

 

[julianf]

Also check the fuel filter.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

The Nanny State strikes again, what was wrong with the old H, L and T adjustment screws. My newest saw, a baby Stihl MS171 which is only about 3 years old still has them.

 

[pedrobedro]

Which Walbro carb is it ? Sometimes I get away with just removing the mixture screw and firing some carb cleaner down the hole it's always worth a first try before you start taking things apart properly. I've only seen single screw carbs on strimmers never on a saw and they still have a tickover screw. Count the number of turns on the screw so it goes back in somewhere close to original position 1.25 to 1.5 turns out gets you in the ballpark.

 

[Mee]

In mine (bigger model) it was a clogged carb and the gasket between the carb and body which had deteriorated, check the air filter and its body is seated correctly as this was my problem, letting fine dust into the carb.

 

[Ton-up]

Probably not this, but I had a running/revving problem that I could not find with my Stihl. Someone on here told me to check that the exhaust wasn't blocked and sure enough, it was virtually solid, so might be worth checking!

 

[MCKDAVID]

I think you mean thé spark arrestor. Could be..

 

[Migmac]

Put a new fuel filter in it, they should be changed regularly. I would also put a new plug into it and put the air filter through the washing machine.

 

[angellonewolf]

i do a lot of these as a hobbie mower strimmers chainsaws im fairly good on them and if i cant get it working right in an hour its going to cost a bit for new parts (im not a pro and there are prob better people on here)

if its a few year old and you have never done any thing to it its lighty to be a number of things my first guess is there is old fuel oil mix left over from the last time you have used it and will need a carb clean but that will take a good hour but i will bet it will fix it

but first try start with a new spark plug then clean out the fuel filter in the tank squirt carb cleaner and compressed air inside so when you blow the air it blow it through then change the fuel lines they get hard in only a few years and a small crack (you can not nornmal see them but the lines should be nice and flexable and will let air in to the fuel line from meny places and if you pinch them between your fingers it should be easy and spring back they cost a couple of pound and can defo do what you describle)

if this dont fix it then its to the carb remove and clean this can be done with carb cleaner its not 100% clean by doing this but do it first and take pics as you go removing the neddle and spring blowing through with carb clean and air (there is also a fuel filter in the carb its self that you need to remove and clean you can use a neddle to remove it or use air blowing through from the bottem but dont lose it to reseat after clean use a drill bit to put back in place just slighty smaller than the hole it come out of rebuild all back up and should work (if this dont fix it but its slightly better it may need a sonic clean take it to a local mechanic and put in there tank for 5 mins for a bit of beer money

as above when taking apart the carb cheak the diaphragm it should be nice and flexable if stiff will need replacing and cheak the bulb at the top is not split as this will allow air in as well again as above cheak the exhaust is clean (there is a way of cleaning out the exhaust but do it your own risk and use your head if doing it swill out with fuel is must be cold if doing this and throw away any left over fuel in the exhaust at arms lenth light the exhaust and any excess fuel will burn off again be carfull and do this at your own risk but i have done this a few times)

doing all of this i have got 90 % of mowers strimmer chain saws all working the only ones are the ones with low compression very warn carbs

 

[pedrobedro]

Put a new fuel filter in it, they should be changed regularly. I would also put a new plug into it and put the air filter through the washing machine.

I've had my old saw over 20 years and never needed a fuel filter replacing, always worth keeping a few spare plugs as they are cheap and most saws use BMPR7A NGK or equivalent. Carb rebuild kits are cheap and have all the bits you need but make sure you get the right one and check things go back in the proper order if you rebuild.

 

[Migmac]

Fuel filters are cheap, i replace them every time I service my saws or when it starts to run rough

 

[Mee]

Cheap insurance.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Got to say I have to agree with Pedrobedro, in 30 years of chainsaw ownership (I currently have 2 Husqvarna and 1 Stihl) I've never changed the fuel filter and never found the need to. They are plastic tanks so no rust or paint to block the filter and if you fill from a 5 litre plastic can you can see if there is any debris in it before you decant.

Just to add that I still use the Husqvarna I bought new in 1990.

 

[Kent]

I had a similar issue. The carb is a right so and so to service well on these so I took it in, the dealer said yes they take a bit of getting used to and charged me about twenty notes. Clean the filters, use clean fuel but then send them in it only takes one part you haven't got and it becomes a long process. The dealer meanwhile will likely have twenty in a box or a new saw he can borrow off till one comes in the post

 

[mart]

Got to say I have to agree with Pedrobedro, in 30 years of chainsaw ownership (I currently have 2 Husqvarna and 1 Stihl) I've never changed the fuel filter and never found the need to. They are plastic tanks so no rust or paint to block the filter and if you fill from a 5 litre plastic can you can see if there is any debris in it before you decant.

Just to add that I still use the Husqvarna I bought new in 1990.

This item looks more like a float than a filter, but it is attached to a fuel pipe inside the tank. I can't see where the fuel enters the filter.

 

[angellonewolf]

thats the filter remove it and blow through it