Drilling slotted holes

[Thrashsmith]

Hi folks,

Is there a dark art to drilling slotted vertical holes in masonry, or is it just a case of drilling a series of vertical holes? Nearly all of my clients have period buildings with old red brick piers, never block work and rarely new brickwork.

I have attached a doodle of a hinge pin forged from 25 x 8mm flat bar. I have also drawn in a couple holes in the wing(?) for resin to key into. It could even be 25 x 6mm now thinking about it.

Is there a rule of thumb for oversizing holes for resin?
Cheers

 

[Windy Miller]

Watching this with interest!

 

[Maxakarudy]

They're called "Sloles" around ere btw

 

[Wendelspanswick]

It's not a method I've ever seen before for hanging a gate.
You will have no method of adjustment so your vertical alignment will have to be spot on.
Is this the top hanger or the bottom one?

 

[Thrashsmith]

It's not a method I've ever seen before for hanging a gate.
You will have no method of adjustment so your vertical alignment will have to be spot on.
Is this the top hanger or the bottom one?

To allow for vertical adjustment couldn't I just drill the holes to 30mm tall each?
Both hangers.

 

[bletchmonster]

Your "doodle" looks like a near perfect isometric drawing to me.
Drilling your line of holes and then chased out with a brick removing chisel in the sds drill would be my line of attack.
It is another of those blacksmithing 'how did they used to do that with no fancy kit' questions.

 

[Thrashsmith]

It is another of those blacksmithing 'how did they used to do that with no fancy kit' questions.

No, because that way madness lies. It was voodoo and aliens that did it.

 

[Wallace]

Rawl plug chisel?

 

[clift_d]

I wouldn't have thought a couple of holes would give much in the way of a key for any resin. I imagine serrated top and bottom edges might be better, or some form of texture on the flat faces like the surface of a file.

 

[Gareth J]

It is another of those blacksmithing 'how did they used to do that with no fancy kit' questions.

Around here, they used to build the crooks into the wall between layers of stone/brick with the steel/wrought on its flat, not vertical. Little bent over tabs on the ends added "key". I have plenty of old, removed ones lying about.

Never seen eyes set into masonry, didn't realise they did it that way around elsewhere!

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Id be inclined to make a shallow slot for looks and weld a bit of rebar/textured round to the end of the flat for the resin to bind to. Then just drill a normal hole n3hind he slot (you might have to drill it first as masonry bits often don't like enlarging holes.

 

[AdrianH]

Sorry I am a bit confused in my head, as I thought that the pin would be mounted to the wall and the ring would be part of the gate.

Have I got the wrong idea again?

Adrian

 

[Gareth J]

Sorry I am a bit confused in my head, as I thought that the pin would be mounted to the wall and the ring would be part of the gate.

Have I got the wrong idea again?

Adrian

Same here, seems backwards to me. More than one way to skin a cat though i guess

 

[AdrianH]

No skinning cats please

Adrian

 

[Thrashsmith]

Sorry I am a bit confused in my head, as I thought that the pin would be mounted to the wall and the ring would be part of the gate.

Have I got the wrong idea again?

Adrian

No you had it.
Like this:

This solo flat bar wrap is for me a variation of the way I do all my hinges. I usually double them up for extra strength, and up till now always on plates as I've never used resin before.
Hinges on another gate just finished & away for finishing.

 

[KemppiFrog]

First time I saw resin used was on Chris Evens' house at Quinta do Lago. I was fitting the auto systems and video stuff. The gate guys turned up and used a hammer drill to open up a a slot for the top hinge in the concrete pillar (no bottom one, as the gate sat on the motor) They had a simple flat bar with grooves from an angle grinder in the faces, prob only a mil deep. Gates weighed around 150kg each. Clearance on the tongue was about 3mm. They wedged the bottom to get them square, with two guys to hold them upright, then bossman injected the Hilti resin and shoved in the hinge. Since the ambiante temp was 30°C it kicked off in 5min and they walked off. I had a chat with him about the stuff and switched from quick cement to resin. Found that Wurth was more practical and cheaper than Hilti and have used it ever since. The normal hole for a threaded rod would be two mm up on the diameter, so clearances are quite close. I also tend to rattle the drill a bit so the hole is a bit larger further in. If a hot day, I keep the tubes in a cold bag with freezer blocks to give me a bit more working time. Another plus over expanding bolts, is there is no splitting stress on the pillar, esp if near an edge.

Also had a chat with my bro, a consultant civil eng. If extending a reinforced concrete structure, it is quite acceptable to resin new rebar into the old concrete beams for the extension. Needs to be done under proper supervision for insurance clearance.
KF

Back to drilling holes... Use a smaller drill to do top and bottom, as it goes in faster and less tendacy to wander, then drill between, spaced to allow for the larger drill that is the width of the slot required. What ever is left, one clears out by drilling at an angle between holes.

 

[KemppiFrog]

BTW, nice drawings and very stylish gates.

 

[KemppiFrog]

While I am at it. I often use taper roller bearings under the gate hinge line and a ball race at the top. One needs a solid lintel under, or cast a footing. System gives very low opening forces on big and heavy gates. Might find a photo of one if I look.