band saw advice

[scott0031]

Well of course i grant you only the op knows how much he will be using the saw. But mild steel will not wear at all well if the saw is used reasonable regularly. It will get swarf dragged via the guide and will prematurely wear, good guides are vital to a saw that cuts well as i'm sure you know. Experience tells me machines always bugger you about when you least need them to bugger you about and when you have deadlines to meet. In this case go to use it and he will be getting horrible troublesome cuts then you have to mess about making a new soft guide that will fail again. I would rather make it right once every 5 years than make it wrong 5 times every year, just my personal preference.

Looking at that other thread about this saw it looks like a guide body and brazed in carbide insert, which would not be that expensive to get made by a wire cutters (if you know which ones to use) Make the body out of BDMS and use Gauge plate drilled and tapped insert hardened it and leave fully hard for this application or as said get a carbide one cut, done for life then. May even be able to get one of the shelf if he knows who made the saw.

 

[powderblast]

Not sure it'd be justified unless the saw is in very frequent use.

There's coolant/lube going in, I'd say that (while it'll wear much quicker than the original) it'll be fine, and easy to replace when it does wear.

Could always harden it a bit by heating it and dumping it in some oil (ymmv depending on grade of steel used).

Well of course i grant you only the op knows how much he will be using the saw. But mild steel will not wear at all well if the saw is used reasonable regularly. It will get swarf dragged via the guide and will prematurely wear, good guides are vital to a saw that cuts well as i'm sure you know. Experience tells me machines always ****** you about when you least need them to ****** you about and when you have deadlines to meet. In this case go to use it and he will be getting horrible troublesome cuts then you have to mess about making a new soft guide that will fail again. I would rather make it right once every 5 years than make it wrong 5 times every year, just my personal preference.

Looking at that other thread about this saw it looks like a guide body and brazed in carbide insert, which would not be that expensive to get made by a wire cutters (if you know which ones to use) Make the body out of BDMS and use Gauge plate drilled and tapped insert hardened it and leave fully hard for this application or as said get a carbide one cut, done for life then. May even be able to get one of the shelf if he knows who made the saw.

Just checked to see is the teeth are straight and they are not you can see from the photo, this is why i think the saw is bouncing when cutting because every rotation the blade does it has to thud back into the cut because the band is not straight/flat teeth (i may not be explaining it clearly enough) so its causing the teeth on every rotation to have to start a new cut (deeper).

what do you guys think and should i try and get my money back also i dont want to keep using this blade as this has to be putting pressure on the saw itself.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

That's a badly made blade, I weld my own blades up and they are alot better than that and I'm an amateur.
Send it back and ask for a replacement or your money back.

 

[powderblast]

That's a badly made blade, I weld my own blades up and they are alot better than that and I'm an amateur.
Send it back and ask for a replacement or your money back.

i have just highlighted the line and i think it no looks more clear to understand

 

[Wendelspanswick]

I can see it clearly on the photo, there is a step in the alignment of the teeth, send the supplier a copy of the photo and see what they say.

 

[bletchmonster]

That's not the best join to be fair, but should be serviceable providing you get your downfeed rate right. It's not uncommon to hear the joint passing though the cut.
In box section the hydraulic feed should be set to carry the blade when it's falling through the narrow sides to stop it grabbing to much. I cut tonnes of 3mm box with a 5-8 pitch blade with no problems, it's the blade the manufacturer recommends.

 

[powderblast]

I can see it clearly on the photo, there is a step in the alignment of the teeth, send the supplier a copy of the photo and see what they say.

Just done that now, i think i should be able to return it, i actually got a quote from buck and hickman for a lenox classic pro blade at £18.23 so i will go into them, tell them the trouble i have had and try one of there blades but i think im going to get 10-14 tpi as this one is a 8-12 tpi?

 

[powderblast]

That's not the best join to be fair, but should be serviceable providing you get your downfeed rate right. It's not uncommon to hear the joint passing though the cut.
In box section the hydraulic feed should be set to carry the blade when it's falling through the narrow sides to stop it grabbing to much. I cut tonnes of 3mm box with a 5-8 pitch blade with no problems, it's the blade the manufacturer recommends.

this is the only thing i can see causing the bounce i have had the feed rate set to snail pace and set fast it does not matter the only thing i can do is try get a refund and try a different supplier of the blade and hope that it is the blade at fault.

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Just done that now, i think i should be able to return it, i actually got a quote from buck and hickman for a lenox classic pro blade at £18.23 so i will go into them, tell them the trouble i have had and try one of there blades but i think im going to get 10-14 tpi as this one is a 8-12 tpi?

I am a great fan of Lenox blades, I use Lenox blades on my sawmill and their holesaws are superb.