hi there im thinking of making a wood burner to heat the garage im thinking of a very large gas cylinder with a door cut out hinged back on and a flew from the top however although most of the smoke will travel upwards im worried about any smoke escaping from the door seal has anyone got any ideas?
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Cappy
Would be Luthier
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At one time it was possible to get a string, made from the nasty 'A' stuff that no-one talks about anymore, which fitted into a groove at the edge of the door.
I don't think it is possible to get it anymore (not being much help), instead there is a fibreglass substitue. Maybe your local hardware store, or stove salesroom might be able to assist - after all they might carry spares for some other makes of stove.
Or maybe it would be possible to modify a spare seal for an oven door, though maybe they won't stand the high temps.
Good luck,
I don't think it is possible to get it anymore (not being much help), instead there is a fibreglass substitue. Maybe your local hardware store, or stove salesroom might be able to assist - after all they might carry spares for some other makes of stove.
Or maybe it would be possible to modify a spare seal for an oven door, though maybe they won't stand the high temps.
Good luck,
rtbcomp
Moderator
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I've got a woodburning "pot-belly" stove and there are no seals on it at all and I don't get problems. The secret is to start with a small fire and get the flue warmed up to create a good draught as the fire gets bigger.
I also have a carbon monoxide detector in the room.
I also have a carbon monoxide detector in the room.
http://www.firesonline.com/acatalog/Fire_Care_and_Repair.html
Ive just done one up. I got the "string" and "glue" from these people.
Ive just done one up. I got the "string" and "glue" from these people.
Drains
Yeah, nah.
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I've done a few of these and the most important thing is a good sized flue - at least 100mm. As long as the flue draws the fire properly you'll have no smoke problems.
For a simple door, cut the hole with a jigsaw and metal cutting blade, and re-attach the cut out piece with a couple of hinges. Weld on a stop so it sits flush. You don't need a total seal unless you want to keep the fire in overnight. You want plenty of air to get in anyway for an efficient fire. You might have to cut holes in the bottle to allow for that.
For control. put a butterfly damper on the flue side. Then you can leave the door open and close down the flue, just stop before you get smoke into the room.
Don't know about cutting oven glass. Ask Bigjoe, sounds like his sort of thing.
Lang may yer lum reek!
For a simple door, cut the hole with a jigsaw and metal cutting blade, and re-attach the cut out piece with a couple of hinges. Weld on a stop so it sits flush. You don't need a total seal unless you want to keep the fire in overnight. You want plenty of air to get in anyway for an efficient fire. You might have to cut holes in the bottle to allow for that.
For control. put a butterfly damper on the flue side. Then you can leave the door open and close down the flue, just stop before you get smoke into the room.
Don't know about cutting oven glass. Ask Bigjoe, sounds like his sort of thing.
Lang may yer lum reek!
If your flue draws properly, its not that much of a issue anyway.
The wood burning heating system here in my workshop had bad rope seals, so I bought a new length of it to replace them about 4 years ago, and never got round to it. It does fill the workshop with smoke a bit if you chuck something very naughty on it, but when its running on wood you dont notice any leakage at all. In fact you can run it with the door open and watch the flames crackle away, which is ace but a complete waste of workshop time
The wood burning heating system here in my workshop had bad rope seals, so I bought a new length of it to replace them about 4 years ago, and never got round to it. It does fill the workshop with smoke a bit if you chuck something very naughty on it, but when its running on wood you dont notice any leakage at all. In fact you can run it with the door open and watch the flames crackle away, which is ace but a complete waste of workshop time
Yes friend you might have some problem with the smoke, But I think a Wood Burner in a cold room is more efficient than a Wood Burner in a hot room. The reason is that heat is more readily transferred to the cooler air. To demonstrate this, imagine a Glass Jar filled with 70 degree water. If we put this Jar in a Refrigerator set at 40 degrees, within 1 hour the water will be approaching 40 degrees.
wallopadonkey
Expert Grinder !
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ok i have a few answers dont know if this is still alive or not
we sell glassfibre rope for sealing doors on wood burning stoves with a small bottle of glue to affix it to the door
we can get glass cut to size for any stove or alternatively you want mica which works very well indeed use 4 mm rope to seal the glass to the door on the outside and on the inside little flaps to hold the glass to the door slid in from the top
dave
we sell glassfibre rope for sealing doors on wood burning stoves with a small bottle of glue to affix it to the door
we can get glass cut to size for any stove or alternatively you want mica which works very well indeed use 4 mm rope to seal the glass to the door on the outside and on the inside little flaps to hold the glass to the door slid in from the top
dave
Have you tried searching, mate?If so I would've thought this might've caught your attention.
Sorry, I didn't even think to search here. I searched google but I was obviously putting in the wrong details as I got nothing back.
Cheers for the link
