Newbie now with TIG.

[Omniata]

Maybe get a set of three taps for the thread, they're usually slightly larger each time, the second boring and the last finishing the thread.
Run the primary one through before welding, then if it hardens any it isn't so difficult to get the latter two through...
You'll also have a thread in alignment so you don't have to cut it all out if it's wonky

 

[DAPPH]

Yep I fully agree .
These single size tap sets of taps & dies are second cut threads forms taps rather than the, " First cut taper , second cut taper cut & the bottoming tap in the set of three .
In my apprenticeship days ( 51 years ago ) we got it hammered in our skulls ..... " Always use the full set of three if you want a decent job & don't want lots of broken taps .

 

[Omniata]

I've just had a "Captain Mainwaring" moment, I'm sure you know what I mean

 

[dazza]

Still practicing. Not getting any better though .

 

[DAPPH]

The five levels of competence .
(1) Totally incompetent and blissfully unaware of it .
(2) Being aware you are incompetent .
(3) Being incompetent and doing something to improve .
(4) Aware you are competent but still need to improve certain aspects.
(5) Competent in all areas . ( Not an expert who only knows a lot about a little )

You've come a long way in a short time me lad , keep going , it's early days yet to get a number five .

 

[dazza]

Decided to take the machine apart and have a look inside.

Some paperwork under the lid Sold to MG-LTD??

Think its had an easy life a little dusty and one board looks a little manky.

I don't have a compressor to give it a blast out. Any other ways i can give it a dust. Soft makeup brush??

 

[Omniata]

Paintbrush and a vacuum nearby to "catch" the dust... Should be fine...

 

[dazza]

Gave the machine a good a clean out, it still works .

Should i be concerned about this board? Can i clean it up?

 

[dazza]

A few goodies arrived today. But as usual i made a mistake I want to attach a couple of flowmeters to my reg, so i ordered a 1/4bsp to 3/8bsp adaptor thinking thats what my reg has but i was wrong. The threads are 10mm?? Are there any nevoc regs with a 3/8 outlet? cant seem to find one.

Did order the correct quick release fitting for the back of the welder so i can use the connector that came with the caddy.

And some other bits, going to make a right mess with these .

 

[HughF]

Gave the machine a good a clean out, it still works .

Should i be concerned about this board? Can i clean it up?

No need for concern, that is rosin flux residue from where they've solder flooded those busbars,,,

 

[dazza]

No need for concern, that is rosin flux residue from there they've solder flooded those busbars,,,

Thanks Hugh, to someone who knows nothing about electronics it does not look good.

 

[dazza]

On the hunt for a new reg. Can the nob on the right be removed on these so you can fit a flow meter?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Druckmindere...c4c57fb&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=281531395107

 

[brockenhammer]

Seeing as i'm enjoying the TIG and should start work on a cooler next week think i also need a pedal.

The manual states FR 21 No. 94.0051.00 Its 14 pin.

I've seen this for £250 , nearly as much as the welder.

http://www.rapidwelding.com/dynamic/DisplayItem.aspx?c=FSME1121M

Will any of the ssc pedals fit this?

https://www.ssccontrols.com/tig-cross-reference-guide/

Any other options? surely it should be easy to find a second hand pedal for such an old machine.

Hello Dazza,
I own the same machine, maybe a little newer.
It´s a great welder and worth buying the original pedal.
This ist made by Gessmann, rocksolid and I love mine.
The Gessmann pedals are used by different german welder brands like EWM, ESS, Jäckle, I saw them on Merkle welders and...
If you compare it to the overprized Fronius pedals for example then you think it´s cheap.
Sometimes you find them used on ebay for 100-200,-€, but the plug is another 20 and and you have to fit it to your machine.
I have the electic plans for the pedal, and if you find a cheap pedal I could send it to you.

I use the FRP15 pulsremote. Thats a great thing also. But no fast pulse, maybe 15hz max.

You find a pic of my machine in the thread "I will pick up a Hitachi...."

One question:
If you turn your machine on, does the fan work all the time?
On my unit it works just when there is an arc and I´m welding.
There are slightly different versions of that machine someone from EWM told me. On the older machines the fan works all the time.

Greetings from germany
Kai

 

[brockenhammer]

Hi Dazza,
I just realized, that you allready wrote in the Hitachi thread.
Sorry for that.

Anyway, the pedal is great ;-) Get one if you can

 

[dazza]

Hello Dazza,
I own the same machine, maybe a little newer.
It´s a great welder and worth buying the original pedal.
This ist made by Gessmann, rocksolid and I love mine.
The Gessmann pedals are used by different german welder brands like EWM, ESS, Jäckle, I saw them on Merkle welders and...
If you compare it to the overprized Fronius pedals for example then you think it´s cheap.
Sometimes you find them used on ebay for 100-200,-€, but the plug is another 20 and and you have to fit it to your machine.
I have the electic plans for the pedal, and if you find a cheap pedal I could send it to you.

I use the FRP15 pulsremote. Thats a great thing also. But no fast pulse, maybe 15hz max.

You find a pic of my machine in the thread "I will pick up a Hitachi...."

One question:
If you turn your machine on, does the fan work all the time?
On my unit it works just when there is an arc and I´m welding.
There are slightly different versions of that machine someone from EWM told me. On the older machines the fan works all the time.

Greetings from germany
Kai

Hi Kai

Thanks for the info regarding the pedal i will keep an eye out on ebay.de.

So the machine has pulse? But you need the rather expensive remote to use it?

The fan is not on all the time only when welding, i've never used another TIG but it seems to work very well. I bet it could lay down some decent welds in other hands .

 

[Richard.]

Hi Kai

Thanks for the info regarding the pedal i will keep an eye out on ebay.de.

So the machine has pulse? But you need the rather expensive remote to use it?

The fan is not on all the time only when welding, i've never used another TIG but it seems to work very well. I bet it could lay down some decent welds in other hands .

IMHO pulsing at low hz is a waste of time and I've never found an advantage. You may as well not bother I say.
I pulse if I think it's gonna help tighten the arc and reduce my heat input but I'm talking about 150-300hz

 

[Brad93]

I pulse round parts at 1pps sometimes, then just use laywire technique. quicker than welding freehand.

 

[Richard.]

I pulse round parts at 1pps sometimes, then just use laywire technique. quicker than welding freehand.

Can lead to varying penetration depths Brad.
You'd be better off maintaining a constant current level and dabbing.

 

[brockenhammer]

Hi,
I definately like even the slow pulse (around 1hz). I weld alot on thinner steel tubing like 0.6mm wall.
It depends on the technique you use if it´s an advantage against no pulsing.
I often move the torch during pulse pause and stop moving the torch and dip the filler in at pulse peak.
It helps not to burn holes, when moving the torch because of less heat. And I have the heat to melt the filler and get a good penetration, when I need it.
That´s maybe different on thicker stuff, where propper penetration is more a problem than burning holes.
Anyway I´m shure there are many ways that lead to good results, and it´s a matter of personal preferences.
Kai

 

[Richard.]

Hi,
I definately like even the slow pulse (around 1hz). I weld alot on thinner steel tubing like 0.6mm wall.
It depends on the technique you use if it´s an advantage against no pulsing.
I often move the torch during pulse pause and stop moving the torch and dip the filler in at pulse peak.
It helps not to burn holes, when moving the torch because of less heat. And I have the heat to melt the filler and get a good penetration, when I need it.
That´s maybe different on thicker stuff, where propper penetration is more a problem than burning holes.
Anyway I´m shure there are many ways that lead to good results, and it´s a matter of personal preferences.
Kai

I only ever use a pulse where distortion may cause me a problem on thin walled material. A fast pulse is waaaaaaaay more useful for this. The arc tightens right up which is great on thin material. But then you have all the advantages a pulse offers with it of high peak/low back, pick up on travel, reduce heat input.