Drill Press Stand/Cabinet

winchman · Sep 4, 2016

Well done
As for the vice what about this.
http://www.camcoindustries.co.nz/product/shelving-boxes-cases-tables-benches-vices/slide-a-vice-van/

Just have a look around for some scrap to make it from, all depends on how much banging and hitting its going to take, having seen the bench I am sure you could make something

dazza · Sep 4, 2016

The bench is solid but i think i may have to secure it to the wall in order to do any hammering on it.

DAPPH · Sep 7, 2016

dazza said:
I want to make a stand for my Fobco Drill. Currently its on a trestle table made from a kitchen counter top.

This is what i've sketched up.

The draws will be the hardest part for me.

Should i use box or angle iron for this? What thickness?

Any recommendations on draw sliders?

I don't have much room hopefully its wide enough i would also like to add castors.

View attachment 86946

Why not see if you can get hold of a load of office desk paper trays and sit ( screw them down onto sliding chip board shelves . It saves making the frames for drawers and when you want you can take a shelf out to give a much bigger space for larger items .

" Ironmongery direct " , sells heavy duty ( 90 kg ) tripple extending roller bearing'd pairs of slides 600 mm long for about £9 each pair . ( plus other useful sizes )

DAPPH · Sep 7, 2016

winchman said:
I like the cabinets but at 200 Euro I felt its expensive but what else could you buy to do the job? They would look good though and by spending that much its a lot less time consuming than building some from scratch and before you know it you have spent a few quid just on runners and hinges, I would just buy them but ask if they have any old scrap furniture as you may then have a cheap supply of materials

I'm just about to complete ,( when the steel top arrives tomorrow ) a simple 1200 x 870 topped bench out of 50x 50 x 5 mm equal angle iron to weld on . it is slightly higher then most benches as \i have back problems so need to be as vertical in my back as possible plus I can store three " Hobby Weld ) gas bottles with gauges & flow valve fitted in the upright position under the top at the rear of the bench
Once I get the top on I will be cutting a slot in the front left hand corner area to take an adaptor that I have made to hold my old 360 degree 4 inch vice ( piccies to follow when it is all done )

Cost so far
£80 inc vat for the angle & £120 inc vat for a 10 mm mild steel plate for the top & . £ 10 for 26 welding sticks .

It's on fixed hard nylon wheels at the back and lockable hard nylon castors at the front ( the wheels lock to stop rolling motion and the whole castor is locked to the spindle preventing any movement of the wheel assembly . it is rock steady , far more solid than my recent set up .

Later in as & when funds allow I'll be getting several 5 mm aluminum chequer drawers bottom plates cut to precise dimensions , several metres of equal angle 30 mm aliminium to make th poprivitable mounts for the drawer walls \ floors , a load of side & rear drawer strip about 120 mm wide and some chequer plate drawer 150 , 200 & 400 mm fronts . I already have 18 pairs of 600mm long tripple extending 90 kg runners to put the drawer boxes on . Then I'll weld in a pair of upright angle iron supports to take the drawer assembly .

dazza · Sep 7, 2016

DAPPH said:
I'm just about to complete ,( when the steel top arrives tomorrow ) a simple 1200 x 870 topped bench out of 50x 50 x 5 mm equal angle iron to weld on . it is slightly higher then most benches as \i have back problems so need to be as vertical in my back as possible plus I can store three " Hobby Weld ) gas bottles with gauges & flow valve fitted in the upright position under the top at the rear of the bench
Once I get the top on I will be cutting a slot in the front left hand corner area to take an adaptor that I have made to hold my old 360 degree 4 inch vice ( piccies to follow when it is all done )

Cost so far
£80 inc vat for the angle & £120 inc vat for a 10 mm mild steel plate for the top & . £ 10 for 26 welding sticks .

It's on fixed hard nylon wheels at the back and lockable hard nylon castors at the front ( the wheels lock to stop rolling motion and the whole castor is locked to the spindle preventing any movement of the wheel assembly . it is rock steady , far more solid than my recent set up .

Later in as & when funds allow I'll be getting several 5 mm aluminum chequer drawers bottom plates cut to precise dimensions , several metres of equal angle 30 mm aliminium to make th poprivitable mounts for the drawer walls \ floors , a load of side & rear drawer strip about 120 mm wide and some chequer plate drawer 150 , 200 & 400 mm fronts . I already have 18 pairs of 600mm long tripple extending 90 kg runners to put the drawer boxes on . Then I'll weld in a pair of upright angle iron supports to take the drawer assembly .

This sounds interesting looking forward to seeing some build pics.

DAPPH · Sep 7, 2016

Just don't expect fantastic welds , I've got one of the Pearl 200 -2 synergy MMA, mig & dc tig sets. The MMA rods were anywhere between five and seven years old all nicely still packed in heat sealed vac packs by me that long ago . God only knows where they came from & what grade/quality they are .

Some of the sticks welded reasonably on the old buzz box welder , whilst others wouldn't strike an arc .

Using this new Pearl 200-2 welder in MMA mode has seen all the rods strike well , some too well ....... zip and two inches of the rod has gone before it slowed down no matter how I tried to set the hot start facility etc. I've got a lot of new learning to do wrt this Pearl 200 -2

Trying to weld vertical with the Pearl is quite different to doing buzz box welding as it is so fast so most of the vert welds done as verticals are real pigeon chit welding ..kissed with a grinder to take off some of the worst blobs .

Tomorrow I hope to have a trial run or three with the welder in DC - TIG mode before the 10 mm top arrives as i collected an argon bottle I'd ordered late on in this afternoon .

dazza · Sep 12, 2016

Started on the second bench today most bits are cut. Will get them prepped with the grinder tomorrow and hopefully some :welder:

dazza · Sep 13, 2016

I spent most of the morning grinding. Took Pauls advice and did a lot more prep this time.

I was just about to start tacking up but its awkward as i only have one corner clamp.

I have some off cuts so I'm going to try and make some jigs like @Paul. used on the fish tank stand.

What i have

40x40*3 / 330mm and 660mm

40*60*3 / 350mm

40*8 / 670mm

So i can make two 330mm jigs but one will have to be a mix of the 60*40 and 40*40. Will the 40*8 be ok for the brace. I have a small piece of 40*40 box in the pic also.

dazza · Sep 14, 2016

Made a couple of corner jigs. With them in place the 4th bar fits nicely and is square thats a first for me.

I don't have enough clamps to weld it all so would it be best to make two L's?

Also do you guys weld the side where the leg goes? Last time i welded it then took the grinder to it before attaching the legs.

rosinante · Sep 14, 2016

Clamp up 2 corners, tack weld, clamp other two tack weld , check diagonals for square , weld up in sequence , no more clamps reqd
Chris

dazza · Sep 15, 2016

Went to buy a couple more g clamps and also bought a longer square. Compared to my old square one is off.

I've cut up one of the jigs as one bit of box must have been bent. Going to turn it around and use a straighter side of the box.

dazza · Sep 15, 2016

pdg said:
It's easy to use a square to self-evaluate how much it's off by, if at all.

drew a line on my desk then flipped the square they both seem ok.

DAPPH · Sep 17, 2016

I found that the hardest bit is having a table top flat enough so that there is no twist in the two " L's " alignment before you weld things up . It seems even a single degree of twist will be obvious when everything is welded up .

For those more experienced than me ,
Am I just imagining things or is square tube often not as square as it could be & angle iron comes ready twisted along its length so it's like a big dipper .
I'm also of the opinion that when I've asked for square tube or equal angle one side is always bigger than the others by up to 1 mm .
Can you readily purchase precision hot rolled square tube and equal angle iron or are they cold drawn & prohibitively expensive?

dazza · Sep 17, 2016

DAPPH said:
I found that the hardest bit is having a table top flat enough so that there is no twist in the two " L's " alignment before you weld things up . It seems even a single degree of twist will be obvious when everything is welded up .

For those more experienced than me ,
Am I just imagining things or is square tube often not as square as it could be & angle iron comes ready twisted along its length so it's like a big dipper .
I'm also of the opinion that when I've asked for square tube or equal angle one side is always bigger than the others by up to 1 mm .
Can you readily purchase precision hot rolled square tube and equal angle iron or are they cold drawn & prohibitively expensive?

I'm struggling with this one. The table i'm using is not perfect plus the work is bigger than the table. I get 3 corners square and the 4th does not line up. I should have built a good welding bench first.

DAPPH · Sep 17, 2016

Can you clamp inverted angle iron across the ends of the bench to enable you to then use a long spirit level to see how level it is wrt the original work top , perhaps inserting flat washers & strips of tin can between the bench top & the angle to bring it into a better plane ?
Then set up the planes & angles for welding , taking great care to keep the diagonals perfectly equal with very small penetration gaps between the pieces being joined ,as this allows you some leeway in getting space enough to set things square ....that's how i ended up getting mine to align .

Then it was a case of doing what the guys have advised me to do .
Doing a small tack /spot weld on one bit , move to another and not welding up anything that I couldn't put my bare hand on so as to reduce the amount of heat induced twist . I ended up with about 2 mm twist/difference on the first " U" shape . So I cut it up again and did one tiny tack at a time , letting it go stone cold before tacking anywhere else . Oodles of tiny tacks later I fully welded one face at a time , again letting things go stone cold .
At the end of the welding day it's was near as dam it to within 1 mm square all over .

dazza · Sep 18, 2016

Just had another go at getting in perfect square if all corners are square its wider on one side by 3mm.

When i measure the frame i've already tacked up its 1mm out over the corners that will do.

dazza · Sep 19, 2016

What a muppet i may as well sell my gear and give up.

Left the gas on all weekend, the pipe going to the reg was leaking and i've lost 50 bar, down to 100bar now :doh: