What Torch

[Parm]

I now have the basic foundations of a TIG system, picked up some gas and nearly ready to start having my first go.

I need a torch but looking around there seems to be many options which I don't fully understand.

I have the HFU 300 picked up from Screwdriver and assume it's a scratch start capability.

What torch do I need for some simple messing around in my hobby workshop.

Wouldn't mind something used or cheap new as a starter for ten

 

[Tom Orrow L]

By the looks of that unit you've got its not scratch start, its high frequency. Its got a 3 Pin amphenol plug which is quite reminiscent of the GYS/ Newarc plug or it could be the 3 Pin XLR plug. It looks like you've got 35-50MM Dinze plugs. You'll want a WP17/WP26 W/ 35-50MM dinze adaptor and a switch fitted W/ either the GYS 3 pin plug or the XLR 3 pin plug. Parwelds part number for the GYS plug is ERCP23 & the XLR plug is ERCP32 if thats any help.

Don't quote me on either of those being the right plug though, i'm just going by the pictures.

 

[HughF]

17 flex head, cheap n cheerful off ebay. flex head isn't much more £££ than standard so might as well, valved not required as the HF box has a gas solenoid in it.. If you're really skint I can let you have an old wp26 I have kicking about for the cost of postage, but you'll need a supply of water to cool it.

WP9 for a fiver:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-TORCH-/272298262158?hash=item3f663dbe8e:g:KIQAAOSwhOVXfNXc

Good for 100A tops really...

Here's a 17 or possibly a 26 with a torch switch and dinse adapter:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tig-welding-torch-/252435435091?hash=item3ac6530e53:g:egYAAOSwepZXRDft

 

[pedrobedro]

WP17 is a good starter torch

 

[WorkshopChris]

If you PM me your address i will put a couple of XLR in the post for you to try, still have loads from my stage sound and lighting days.

 

[Parm]

Be easy with me guys if I get things wrong, I'm a beginer welder and complete total novice with TIG, so forgive my lack of understanding of the various functions terminology etc.

This is a little project for me to try and learn something new.

There will be lots of questions some which may seem silly but please help and advise in the time honoured tradition of this forum

 

[Parm]

By the looks of that unit you've got its not scratch start, its high frequency. Its got a 3 Pin amphenol plug which is quite reminiscent of the GYS/ Newarc plug or it could be the 3 Pin XLR plug. It looks like you've got 35-50MM Dinze plugs. You'll want a WP17/WP26 W/ 35-50MM dinze adaptor and a switch fitted W/ either the GYS 3 pin plug or the XLR 3 pin plug. Parwelds part number for the GYS plug is ERCP23 & the XLR plug is ERCP32 if thats any help.

Don't quote me on either of those being the right plug though, i'm just going by the pictures.

Ok good advice

 

[Tom Orrow L]

Be easy with me guys if I get things wrong, I'm a beginer welder and complete total novice with TIG, so forgive my lack of understanding of the various functions terminology etc.

This is a little project for me to try and learn something new.

There will be lots of questions some which may seem silly but please help and advise in the time honoured tradition of this forum

We're all here to try and help best we can, keep the questions coming

 

[Parm]

17 flex head, cheap n cheerful off ebay. flex head isn't much more £££ than standard so might as well, valved not required as the HF box has a gas solenoid in it.. If you're really skint I can let you have an old wp26 I have kicking about for the cost of postage, but you'll need a supply of water to cool it.

WP9 for a fiver:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-TORCH-/272298262158?hash=item3f663dbe8e:g:KIQAAOSwhOVXfNXc

Good for 100A tops really...

Here's a 17 or possibly a 26 with a torch switch and dinse adapter:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tig-welding-torch-/252435435091?hash=item3ac6530e53:g:egYAAOSwepZXRDft

Thanks Hugh that's a great offer that I'll take you up on if that's ok, but will it work with out being cooled by water ?

 

[Parm]

By the looks of that unit you've got its not scratch start, its high frequency. Its got a 3 Pin amphenol plug which is quite reminiscent of the GYS/ Newarc plug or it could be the 3 Pin XLR plug. It looks like you've got 35-50MM Dinze plugs. You'll want a WP17/WP26 W/ 35-50MM dinze adaptor and a switch fitted W/ either the GYS 3 pin plug or the XLR 3 pin plug. Parwelds part number for the GYS plug is ERCP23 & the XLR plug is ERCP32 if thats any help.

Don't quote me on either of those being the right plug though, i'm just going by the pictures.

Ok so it's not scratch start, so how do I start the welding current? Do I need a foot pedal or a torch with switch or something else ?

 

[Tom Orrow L]

Ok so it's not scratch start, so how do I start the welding current? Do I need a foot pedal or a torch with switch or something else ?

Its HF so once you've got the right torch you need to hold the tungsten a short distance from the work piece and then click your button, the HF will then kick in and start your arc off. You don't ned a pedal, you just need the right set up of torch for the machine.

 

[HughF]

It will need to be water cooled Parm... I might be able to scrape together a torch switch to clip on it. You'll see me using a very similar hf box with a torch switch in my DC tig video I posted a week or so ago. Link somewhere in the brew room.

Basically, hit the button to get some pre-flow, bring the tungsten in close, hit the button again, arc starts. Let go of button to extinguish arc.

 

[Parm]

It will need to be water cooled Parm... I might be able to scrape together a torch switch to clip on it. You'll see me using a very similar hf box with a torch switch in my DC tig video I posted a week or so ago. Link somewhere in the brew room.

Basically, hit the button to get some pre-flow, bring the tungsten in close, hit the button again, arc starts. Let go of button to extinguish arc.

Ok great stuff this is begining to make some sense now. The button for the torch must go to the XLR plug on the box. I'm gonna load up some more detailed pictures in a minute.

Will it need to be water cooled for even low amps work ?

Some pictures of the assembled kit didn't seem to have any water cooling

 

[Parm]

Back of the box, power supply in with kettle lead plug, and two out puts marked water cooler, plus gas inlet

 

[eSCHEn]

If you're up near me anytime Parm get yourself over and I'll take you through TIG basics if you like

 

[HughF]

Water cooling can be as simple as a gallon bucket and a circulator pump...

Hook the hose from the flowmeter to the gas inlet on the back. Gas will come out of the fitting on the front of the hf unit when you trigger the torch. That gas then goes either up the power lead of a gas cooled torch (unless it's proper ancient, or is Chinese in which case it will have a separate hose and bit of welding cable) or up the gas hose on a water cooled torch. You then pump water up the water-in hose on the water cooled torch, the water then flows back down the power cable which will terminate in another 3/8 bsp fitting.

That fitting goes to a dinse adapter so the water and power can be separated, you stick the dinse adapter into the torch port on the hf box and the water coming out of th dinse adapter goes back to the bucket.

 

[Parm]

The front of the unit, ive got my head round all the connections with the exception of the XLR plug (I assume this is for the torch switch)

Then of course there are the controls, will need some help with these too

Some photos of the front. Close ups are from left to right

 

[Parm]

Water cooling can be as simple as a gallon bucket and a circulator pump...

Hook the hose from the flowmeter to the gas inlet on the back. Gas will come out of the fitting on the front of the hf unit when you trigger the torch. That gas then goes either up the power lead of a gas cooled torch (unless it's proper ancient, or is Chinese in which case it will have a separate hose and bit of welding cable) or up the gas hose on a water cooled torch. You then pump water up the water-in hose on the water cooled torch, the water then flows back down the power cable which will terminate in another 3/8 bsp fitting.

That fitting goes to a dinse adapter so the water and power can be separated, you stick the dinse adapter into the torch port on the hf box and the water coming out of th dinse adapter goes back to the bucket.

Ok that sounds simple enough

 

[HughF]

Ok, ignore what I said... You don't need a dinse adapter as your hf box has either a combined gas/power out on the 3/8 bsp, or a bolt type lug terminal. Stud mount dinse sockets are hard to come by, so I suggest going for a air cooled torch which will hook straight onto the 3/8bsp...

 

[HughF]

The torch switch connection is definitely a 3 pin xlr by the way...