- Thread starter PSweeney
- Start date
norsa
old school painter
- Messages
- 2,486
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- Newbury UK
depends how fat and horrible is on a scale of 1 to 10. anything over 5, i would stop. let it flash, and mop it up with a bit of masking tape to take the top off. its hard work trying to polish out a curtain without cutting through to your base coat. When you do flat it back, if you break through, beware of ghosting where your clear feathers into base.
Only my M.O, feel free to shoot me down.
Nick
Only my M.O, feel free to shoot me down.
Nick
norsa
old school painter
- Messages
- 2,486
- Location
- Newbury UK
we all get the odd snotter from time to time mate. its normally where yyou change the angle/direction of the gun. golden rule, more than 2 full consecutive passes lead to a run. get your angles, reveals returns and awkward bits done, give it a little flash off time then do your full panel.
I think poor lighting was to blame for one of them, lost my wet edge and looks like I've overlapped too much. If I leave it to set up overnight so the runs are hard enough to sand out, can I recoat tomorrow or should I want a few days to avoid differing curing rates etc ? Was trying to get a gun finish but booth is less than ideal and my techniques letting the side down so I think I just need to fix it, get the film build then cut and buff it.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
or it will come off in little rolls
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,063
- Location
- Hull UK
is this 2k ? if not may need a little longer to cure properly
Data sheet says 8h @ 20 degree so will try it tomorrow. It's 2k Omi-cron clear from Jawel. Tried no thinner on some cast parts and it sprayed well, went to 20% for panels and I think it was too much. Was quite warn today and the other bits which took a splash at prob 5-10% held up much better.
Done two race cars previously in RFU 1k. One cracked all over within 6 months, literally cracked down to the primer, the other was a metal flake and I must have put 20 coats of clear on over three months to bury the flake. Can't imagin that's it's lasted but it it looked great at the time......
View media item 9093Well it look like it's already able to be sanded as I did a little test on a sag. The bigger run I'll leave until tomorrow. Here's a pic of the cowl panel with the sags sanded
It's worth learning to use a single edged razor blade (or Nib file or run block, although I've no experience with these yet) to take the initial crest off the runs at least. Reduces the chance of going through to base coat with just sanding.
Also works for inclusions, you can buy thin stainless steel masks which help. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-3...14aa73b&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=162042112821
Also works for inclusions, you can buy thin stainless steel masks which help. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-3...14aa73b&pid=100011&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=162042112821
I just don't paint often enough to get repeatable results. In the last week I've painted in temps between 10 and 23 degrees and 25 to 90% humidity. Got a deadline to get the whole car together for Dragstalgia in July so trying to paint it in between work and late at night etc isn't ideal but it's a race car and a 20ft paint job so I'm not too fussed
Will grey scotchbrite be sufficient to key 2k for another coat or should I hit it with 800 ?
Will grey scotchbrite be sufficient to key 2k for another coat or should I hit it with 800 ?
Yes mate see you tomorrow
