normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
arn't they usually the otherway round ?
- Thread starter bigegg
- Start date
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,651
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
Apparently, it's a "bontrager" so custom unobtainable
normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
the other way would be to make a insert and knock it further down then fit the new one above
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,249
- Location
- Going Away.
Wrap the out side in an old towel, pour 2 kettles of boiling water over the towel. leave for a few minutes.
Cold water or ice on the inside, expanding raw bolt and pull.
I used that on a few old Moulton bikes when they have got stuck, or some muppet force fitted an after market tube.
Cold water or ice on the inside, expanding raw bolt and pull.
I used that on a few old Moulton bikes when they have got stuck, or some muppet force fitted an after market tube.
sardine
Member
- Messages
- 3,722
- Location
- Buckinghamshire
You can cut off the old bearings, and press on new ones if you can get the right size. See my post above though.
Erm, now you mention I'm not sure! I've just been and checked mine and its alloy / alloy
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
- Messages
- 9,252
- Location
- South West
Start with heating oil (kerosene) if the tube is sealed fill it then leave it alone for a day or so then the expanding reamer as NS said or a tap that fits hopefully it will start to turn if it does pull & turn, cutting through with hack saw is OK but fiddly the soak will help whatever method you use kerosene is one of the most pervasive fluids I have come across.
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,086
- Location
- Hull UK
Knock it in and fit a new one 
penfold
Ambassador plenipotentiary
- Messages
- 2,116
- Location
- Argyll and Bute, God's own country.
Boiling water over the outside or even careful heat gun application while simultaneously squirting freon or other feezer spray into the inside of the seat tube, a few cycles should break the seal and allow it to be hoiked out. An expanding stepped mandrel that will reach beyond the end of the seat tube and a slide hammer sounds optimum to me.
gordon stephenson
Member
- Messages
- 7,473
- Location
- Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
A bit laborious and off the wall thinking, How about turning a long steel plug to fit inside the tube, Then hacksaw a cut top to bottom around 3/8" deep, next grind the back of a hacksaw blade to just fit the gap with a bit of interference, making sort of a broach, increase the blade width a little at a time until the seat tube is almost cut through. No damage to the frame at all.
graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
- Messages
- 3,810
- Location
- gatwick
A cutter like a rotabroachy thingy, with a pilot. If you thin the post so it's around 20 thou thick it should come
out really easy.
Or make a hacksaw frame, a couple of bits of bar with the blade protruding just so far that it can't touch the tube,
then make a few slices, so you can collapse it.
I am sure there are loads more ways.
If you want to put plug gas in there. Make a bung, then bodge up a funnel and pour the stuff through the bottle holes.
I ride a bike by Gary mate Joe;-)
Just realised I have Mount Vision with a stuck seat post coming in the next few days, I
bought it for the XTR bit's and the bloke chucked in the frame as he couldn't get the bottom bracket
or seat post out.
out really easy.
Or make a hacksaw frame, a couple of bits of bar with the blade protruding just so far that it can't touch the tube,
then make a few slices, so you can collapse it.
I am sure there are loads more ways.
If you want to put plug gas in there. Make a bung, then bodge up a funnel and pour the stuff through the bottle holes.
I ride a bike by Gary mate Joe;-)
Just realised I have Mount Vision with a stuck seat post coming in the next few days, I
bought it for the XTR bit's and the bloke chucked in the frame as he couldn't get the bottom bracket
or seat post out.
jerrytug
Member
- Messages
- 1,834
- Location
- Isle of Wight
Hang the frame upside down. Fill the stuck saddle tube with dry ice. Heat the frame tube gently with a hot air gun. It will drop out with gravity!
I've just been watching youtube, TubalCain, fitting a ball bearing with dry ice, looks like magic stuff, cools metal down to -75C, so it shrinks A Lot!
I've never used it myself but it looks the business, also cheap and non-toxic.
I've just been watching youtube, TubalCain, fitting a ball bearing with dry ice, looks like magic stuff, cools metal down to -75C, so it shrinks A Lot!
I've never used it myself but it looks the business, also cheap and non-toxic.
Cobbler
Codger bodger
- Messages
- 8,035
- Location
- Gloucestershire UK
Going back to your comment about the bottom bracket, I had a 2001 Garry Fisher Big Sur, that had a standard XT sealed cartridge bearing in it. You could remove it easily with the Shimano tool. Bontrager is part of the Trek/Gary Fisher organisation, but I think you will find the groupset is all Shimano. Could be wrong though.
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,508
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 20,249
- Location
- Going Away.
Why go to the cost of dry ice when a quick trio to a decent plumbers outlet and buy a can or 2 of pipe freezing spray.
Works well on bearings etc.
I was reminded of this trick when I found my can when digging out some hydraulic nut splitters today.
I am lucky I can get a good few cold blast from old CO2 extinguishers.
I have used to pipe freezer spray when working on trucks when we had issues with horrible tight dash screws. We would give the fixing a blast with it and t would shrink enough to make it easier to remove, the opposite of applying heat.
Works well on bearings etc.
I was reminded of this trick when I found my can when digging out some hydraulic nut splitters today.
I am lucky I can get a good few cold blast from old CO2 extinguishers.
I have used to pipe freezer spray when working on trucks when we had issues with horrible tight dash screws. We would give the fixing a blast with it and t would shrink enough to make it easier to remove, the opposite of applying heat.
gordon stephenson
Member
- Messages
- 7,473
- Location
- Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
I used to fit cross-head pins about 5" diameter using dry ice, You can hear a high pitched squealing sound when the metal is shrinking.
chunkolini
celebrity artiste
- Messages
- 9,616
- Location
- Swansea
Sealed bottom brackets can be had quite cheaply for Shimano ones, I would not bother going XT just get a mid range one..
The threads to remove them are odd. Both undo towards the front of the bike. Opposite way round to pedals. I cant see solvents damaging them any way.
In fact solvents wont touch the BB. the seals face outwards on the crank, the inner section of it is just a tube. Fill the seat tube with diesel or whatever for a while and leave it.
Then maybe make a hook you can slip down inside it with a lip on the top that can be cracked with a hammer to pull it out, keep bashing it and move it around the bottom of the seat post.
Or I would try and slit the seatpost with a hacksaw blade. Maybe front and rear then see how it can be pulled out. They can be a right pig to get out. We had one that was so tight it was pouring smoke off after being held in the vice and the frame wiggled about. What fool chopped it off level?
Take your time and it will come out in the end.
The threads to remove them are odd. Both undo towards the front of the bike. Opposite way round to pedals. I cant see solvents damaging them any way.
In fact solvents wont touch the BB. the seals face outwards on the crank, the inner section of it is just a tube. Fill the seat tube with diesel or whatever for a while and leave it.
Then maybe make a hook you can slip down inside it with a lip on the top that can be cracked with a hammer to pull it out, keep bashing it and move it around the bottom of the seat post.
Or I would try and slit the seatpost with a hacksaw blade. Maybe front and rear then see how it can be pulled out. They can be a right pig to get out. We had one that was so tight it was pouring smoke off after being held in the vice and the frame wiggled about. What fool chopped it off level?
Take your time and it will come out in the end.
winchman
Member
- Messages
- 6,239
- Location
- Merseyside
Just a thought.
Have you asked a local bike shop or frame builder?
When I worked in the bike industry we had a home made version of this.
http://shuztung.en.taiwantrade.com.tw/product/vertical-type-seat-tube-reaming-machine-681781.html
Wylcut swift supplied the cutter basically its was like a mag drill bit, but with care and lube it would bore out a jammed seat post
http://www.sheffieldprecision.com/
Just rebuilding a Cannondale and its all alloy I thought of you when the seat post came straight out, I bet you were thinking of me though as the In the Head front suspension is seized solid!
Have you asked a local bike shop or frame builder?
When I worked in the bike industry we had a home made version of this.
http://shuztung.en.taiwantrade.com.tw/product/vertical-type-seat-tube-reaming-machine-681781.html
Wylcut swift supplied the cutter basically its was like a mag drill bit, but with care and lube it would bore out a jammed seat post
http://www.sheffieldprecision.com/
Just rebuilding a Cannondale and its all alloy I thought of you when the seat post came straight out, I bet you were thinking of me though as the In the Head front suspension is seized solid!
