Cast iron /Rayburn repair

[Mikey D]

ok guys my mate has a door off a rayburn ,wants to convert it back to wood from oil (seeing as he has 2 acres of woodland)
the door had a notch /groove cut out that he wants filling in .
It just needs building up with weld then grinding smooth .
I want to arc weld it with my inverter , so what technique ,preheat etc do i need and what rods ie do i need cast iron rods or would stainless work ok ??

any decent advice appreciated , cheers mike

 

[runnach]

Call rayburn for cast type, then purchase suitable rod to use, you do not mention length/depth of notch/groove? I would go for cold welding, short runs and peen till cool, once built up, then grind back to flush.

 

[Mikey D]

Thaks runnach , so by cold i presume you mean no preheat ? the groove /notch is about 8mm deep x 15 mm long i think ...
by peening you mean tapping at it with small hammer like a chip

ping hammer ? whats the purpose of that then?
sorry not done any cast stuff before

cheers mike

 

[DIY Welding]

Buy cold welding he means no preheat, the peening acts as a stress relive and prevents cracking, try to put a u prep in the groove, do not weave keep the arc as short as possiable, start one end do half then stop, the do the other end, peen after every weld you need a pure nickel electrode

 

[runnach]

DIYW is spot on, couple of other points tho, use a small ball peen hammer, lightly use the ball end, peen till new deposit is cold, try to use a 1.6 dia rod, keep amps to minimum. If groove is not too long, same method as per DIYW, if longer, minimum runs, say about 12mm, peen till cool. Do one end, then the other, then middle till complete, called knitting.

Don't know if relevant here as it is a groove, not a crack. Bridging bead at either end stops cracks from propagating, not sure if necessary with this repair?

just a case of suck it and see!

 

[Mikey D]

Thanks again diy and runnach
it might be as while until i get some rods for the job but ill try to take a few pics along the way maybe of help to someone else viewing the forum sometime

cheers mike

 

[snowcat]

Personally, I would and always pre heat Cast, theres always one but this is my too peneth, 150C preheat, decent prep, Root pass, peen, then fills, work fast once the materials hot, HAZ cracking normally happens as the materials pulling upto temp or cooling, IMHO, try and weld stringers avoid weaves and use a High Ni Rod (I use bohlers simply because I use bohlers all round)... If possible keep cooling as slow as possible..... If its a deep fill its possible to butter with the Ni, then go to a 312L, but it probably wouldn't apply in this case......BTW Mikey, I have some lens covers but have deleted your PM by mistake, If you want to resend it IL send them on.....

 

[Mikey D]

Aye theres allways one , why couldnt you just agree with trhe other two
well until i get someone else saying preheat it will be done cold !

Whats this about pm's and lens covers ?

cheers mike

 

[snowcat]

Aye theres allways one , why couldnt you just agree with trhe other two
well until i get someone else saying preheat it will be done cold !

Whats this about pm's and lens covers ?

cheers mike

Ahh sorry wrong Mike, It was J not D who wanted the lens covers......

These guys agree with me......

 

[Mikey D]

Hmmmmm... having read that website im in two minds now

oh well at least were all agreed on the electrode type ! ill worry about preheat or not when im nearer to doing the job

cheers mike

 

[runnach]

Oche, snowie is being pedantic, the thing has been stressed enough without adding extra stress at a local area. If this fails (thought I doubt it) batter the heat into it measured by tempil stick, butter up and, weld till complete, then make some toast fer me and snowie, with butter, I like mine well done btw hehe.......

 

[Drains]

Snowy, don't let TechnicAl catch you suggesting pre heat on a nickel rod. You'll be shot mate!

Here, isn't it you who likes to weld cast with stainless, "cos it looks nice"? Ahem.

 

[snowcat]

Snowy, don't let TechnicAl catch you suggesting pre heat on a nickel rod. You'll be shot mate!

Here, isn't it you who likes to weld cast with stainless, "cos it looks nice"? Ahem.

312L looks pretty as long as theres no machining to be done, Ni butter and 312 fill, pretty and structual.....

and don't worry me and AL have already had a spat about Ni and preheat, Apparently its only us whippersnappers who would be so hieven.....

Pedantic moi?????, Now hows the Toast going.......

 

[runnach]

Do you guys buy rods???

Toast........dunno, I'll ask Mikey

 

[weldequip]

You wouldn't be suggesting 'losing' a few from the national education budget in order to further your education of blends of whiskey would you Runnach?!
weldequip

 

[runnach]

You wouldn't be suggesting 'losing' a few from the national education budget in order to further your education of blends of whiskey would you Runnach?!
weldequip

Thought I'd had one too many when I replied to you post on cost of Ni rods, then removed it.........you did didn't you?

I was suggesting I do have the option of receiving freebies, all in the cause of expanding engineering/welding skills

Btw, did you enjoy festival trip, assuming it has been and gone?

 

[snowcat]

Emmmmmmmm yes that post did go?????

 

[weldequip]

Thought I'd had one too many when I replied to you post on cost of Ni rods, then removed it.........you did didn't you?

I did indeed yes. Didn't read the thread properly & realised that he needed to modify the door & not repair it, so should only need a couple or three rods (still bloody expensive though & no guarantee of sucess).

Btw, did you enjoy festival trip, assuming it has been and gone?

I ain't been yet,next weekend... August Bank Holiday...looking forward
weldequip

 

[Mikey D]

sure ill try for the toast , may need a little preheat when it arrives tho