Just a follow up of the problem I am having with Polyurethane lacquer removal from engineered flooring. Tried everyhing known to man [ I believe], even tried softening the surface with blow torch, all this does is burn the hardwood surface underneath the lacquer. Best so far is Methelyne Chloride jel covered with plastic to limit evaporation, even this takes up to six applications. Bloody expensive as I have hundreds of board feet to do. Any other suggestions guys?.
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gordon stephenson
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Is it possible to plane the flooring?
Thanks for that Gordon, not an option I'm afraid, Oak top layer only around 4.5mm. Thought about hiring a planer thicknesser but the boards are not dead flat apart from the fact that even tc blades wouldn't last any time. This stuff is unbelievably hard, flap wheels, rotary wire brushes won't touch it.
Thats a shame, I did an unbelievable ammout of maple, cleaned as best as possible, checked and put through a 20" planer thicknesser, took over a couple of days, customer was chareged a regrind for all four blades, but was unbelievably pleased with the result. The blades had to be seen to be believed.
Floor sander??
Stan
Floor sander??
Stan
gordon stephenson
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Live with it, and call it patina,
How about one of these? http://www.metabo.co.uk/Product-catalogue-handheld-powertools.23958+M514fcc2fc84.0.html
As stated even TC blades just don't last, Caustic would turn the wood black even if it worked, I have a Pro orbital power sander, sheets don't even last one pass with the polyurethane coating. I have done one room, once the coating has been removed chemically, boards laid then orbital sanded, recoated, perfect. I just need some way of removing the coating without spending weeks and quite a wad doing it. Have contacted industrial coating manufacurers to see if they can recommend other solvents for their products, awaiting a reply. I Googled Polyurethane Lacquer removal most say it's nearly impossible to remove either chemically or by sanding, they're not wrong. Would add that the chemically stripping had to be done outside because of the fumes, not weather for it now.
Not doing anything wrong at all, obviously a different coating, 40g top quality sheets, little impression, like trying to sand glass.
Did the blowtorch remove the lacquer? If so either set it to a lower heat and remove the heat as soon as the lacquer starts to bubble, working on a small bit at a time and remove the lacquer with a scraper as you go along. The other technique I have heard of but not tried is to use a clothes iron over a piece of cloth and scrape off the lacquer. Still a long laborious job.
Couldn't believe it, heat never effected the poly, just transferred it to the wood underneath
Your joking, this is top quality flooring, hense the trouble restoring it. You're right in the indestructible bit though.
Unlikely I'll find out the manufacturer, refinishing with Junckers Strong
MattF
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Caustic doesn't turn wood black. Darken it a smidgeon, possibly, but that's all.
Tried it on an off cut already stripped, as near black as damn it, doesn't touch the coating anyway.
marlinspike
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You should have stayed in that lovely house where you lived when we bought your welder! My kids still talk about our day trip to collect it and your wife giving them chocolate. I hope you took all the bikes with you. Welder still going great by the way. I will do a Project thread if we ever get the car finished.
Can't help with the floor, though we were quoted about £500 for someone to professionally sand our floorboards in a 16' x 13' room if that helps. Expensive but they do have the proper gear like big floor sanders.
Can't help with the floor, though we were quoted about £500 for someone to professionally sand our floorboards in a 16' x 13' room if that helps. Expensive but they do have the proper gear like big floor sanders.
