Rolling/brushing epoxy primer?

[SpitfireIV]

Have the body tub of my Spitty totally stripped back to bare metal, has been for the past number of months, I want to get it sealed up and protected for the winter months before any rust appears.

My plan is to hit all the metal again with 80 grit (too harsh? 120 perhaps or a red scotchbrite?), degrease thoroughly and brush/roll the epoxy on. I should be ok with brushing/rolling it? Any particular type of brush or roller preferable?

Not overly concerned about brush marks etc, I'll be filling over the epoxy and sealing it again before the highbuild which wont be until the weather starts picking up again next year hopefully.

 

[wristpin]

Interestingly there have been a couple of articles in Tractor and Machinery mag (Oct and Nov editions) on prep and painting of tractor wheels and that is what the writer , a professional paint man and restorer , is doing. He comments that the normal run of the mill rollers are too coarse but fails to mention from where he gets the finer ones!

 

[optima21]

I've used jotun 87 winter grade epoxy primer on the underside of my car, I normally mix either 150 or 200ml at a time using disposable paint mixing cups. I normally use kingorigin paint brushes from home bargains, the 1" brushes are 29p each and the 2" brushes are 39p each. they dont loose hairs and that the prices they arnt worth cleaning. although it says you can use mixed paint for an hour, its fine to brush paint for a couple of hours

 

[langy]

Wickes sponge radiator rollers, load the thinner in the epoxy to about 30%, I rollered this completely with the 4 inch Wickes rollers, most people think its sprayed.

 

[wristpin]

Interestingly there have been a couple of articles in Tractor and Machinery mag (Oct and Nov editions) on prep and painting of tractor wheels and that is what the writer , a professional paint man and restorer , is doing. He comments that the normal run of the mill rollers are too coarse but fails to mention from where he gets the finer ones!

Apologies to anyone who has rushed out and bought T & M - it was Classic Tractor!

 

[langy]

Apologies to anyone who has rushed out and bought T & M - it was Classic Tractor!

Professional Paintman & restorer, unusual to see both in same sentence

 

[SpitfireIV]

Thanks for the help guys. I had a shot over the weekend at epoxy priming the tub. Brushed in all the hard to reach/tight spots and rolled the wings, sills, etc. Annoyingly the foam roller sleeves (4" quite dense foam rollers, not cheap sponge ones) only lasted about 10 mins before they started swelling up, going kinda soft and baggy and finally starting to come apart. Obviously the chemicals in the epoxy dont work well with foam! They do lay on the epoxy fine, but, like I say, you need to have a few sleeves in reserve for a pit stop or two

 

[langy]

Thanks for the help guys. I had a shot over the weekend at epoxy priming the tub. Brushed in all the hard to reach/tight spots and rolled the wings, sills, etc. Annoyingly the foam roller sleeves (4" quite dense foam rollers, not cheap sponge ones) only lasted about 10 mins before they started swelling up, going kinda soft and baggy and finally starting to come apart. Obviously the chemicals in the epoxy dont work well with foam! They do lay on the epoxy fine, but, like I say, you need to have a few sleeves in reserve for a pit stop or two

Wickes standard rollers don't do that

 

[SpitfireIV]

Wickes standard rollers don't do that

Don't know why it was happening with me, I used two different makes and happened to both. The epoxy I'm using is BESA F286

http://www.bernardoecenarro.com/en/...aint-primers/epoxy-primer-2k-epoxy-shopprimer

 

[langy]

Don't know why it was happening with me, I used two different makes and happened to both. The epoxy I'm using is BESA F286

http://www.bernardoecenarro.com/en/...aint-primers/epoxy-primer-2k-epoxy-shopprimer

I use Lechlar with no problems, maybe your rollers have a different grade of foam ? When rollering epoxy I increase the thinner to 25-30% so it flows out nice

 

[richie00boy]

Wickes sponge radiator rollers, load the thinner in the epoxy to about 30%, I rollered this completely with the 4 inch Wickes rollers, most people think its sprayed.

I have a table I want to paint. Are these the rollers you use Langy?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Mini-Gloss-Roller-Sleeve-Short-Pile-108mm-2-Pack/p/600815

 

[langy]

I have a table I want to paint. Are these the rollers you use Langy?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Mini-Gloss-Roller-Sleeve-Short-Pile-108mm-2-Pack/p/600815

Certainly looks like them bud

 

[richie00boy]

Thanks, will pick up a pack.

 

[richie00boy]

Bought a 10 pack of those rollers as worked out much cheaper each. Foam held up perfectly with 2k clear.

Issue I had was small bubbles. Do you let each coat dry Langy before the next? As I only waited about 20 mins between.

 

[langy]

I had no bubbles bud, I was overcoating after 10mins as was in bright sunlight, I upped the thinners to 30%
Are you using the epoxy thinner and is it Lechlar ?

 

[richie00boy]

Its clearcoat on a plywood table I've made. First coat went on smooth, minor bubbles when rolling but disappeared. Soaked in a lot. Second and third coats bubbles appeared when rolling but did not disappear like the first.

Luckily was a test run on underside of table. Will flat back and see how it goes.

I was wondering if the clear was setting up in the pot after 1 hour when the last coat went on, but pot life should be 4-6 hours. Used fast hardener and about 10% thinners.

Also I only had a little in the roller tray, perhaps I need to load the roller up more.

 

[langy]

Its clearcoat on a plywood table I've made. First coat went on smooth, minor bubbles when rolling but disappeared. Soaked in a lot. Second and third coats bubbles appeared when rolling but did not disappear like the first.

Luckily was a test run on underside of table. Will flat back and see how it goes.

I was wondering if the clear was setting up in the pot after 1 hour when the last coat went on, but pot life should be 4-6 hours. Used fast hardener and about 10% thinners.

Also I only had a little in the roller tray, perhaps I need to load the roller up more.

I've not rollered clearcoat bud only primer, but i'm sure you would get better results upping the thinner

 

[Gwil]

Some prof advice from SP systems was to 'sand in' the first coat of epoxy on bare steel (if you're an obsessive like me....). Any invisible oxidation is then sanded off and incorporated and encapsulated in the epoxy. It's messy but from experience it works on bare steel in the marine environment. Good enough for me!

 

[richie00boy]

I've not rollered clearcoat bud only primer, but i'm sure you would get better results upping the thinner

I sanded the clearcoat back to smooth (probably removed about 80% of it) and had another go, this time with 30% thinners and less time (10 mins) between coats. It was better but still got bubbles, I found I had to really load it on to avoid getting bad bubbling. Still got a few bubbles, but as it's the underside of the table it won't matter. But tomorrow I'm doing the top, now thinking to brush it instead.

 

[Maxakarudy]

To get rid of the bubbles you have to catch the paint at the right stage, just before it starts to dry.L
Load the panel up nice and wet, but even, no runs.
Let it set for a while, it might be just a minute or two, then lightly roll the panel again, but not with a loaded roller.
Martin