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At this rate you will have Mark Evans round making a TV program about the repairs / rebuild!
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peterd51
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Hi,
that's not a name I'm familiar with but I'll guess he hosts a car-repairs program on Discovery, etc?
Spent four hours today getting the carpets and seats in.
Just the rear-end welding and replacement bits and bobs and it'll be ready for an MOT...
assuming I get the V5 through! Without that there's no point going much further as I can't put it on the road.
Regards
Peter
that's not a name I'm familiar with but I'll guess he hosts a car-repairs program on Discovery, etc?
Spent four hours today getting the carpets and seats in.
Just the rear-end welding and replacement bits and bobs and it'll be ready for an MOT...
assuming I get the V5 through! Without that there's no point going much further as I can't put it on the road.
Regards
Peter
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I hope it does turn up after what you have spent in time & money to get this far!
Cheers, Stuart.
peterd51
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Hi,
the secret to MOTs is to always go to the same place and then you have an idea what the examiner thinks is 'important'.
As for the V5, if I can't have one then I'll swap engines with my old mondeo as that's currently where the main cost is (new clutch, gaskets, seals, etc). It shouldn't be a problems though as I've bought a number of cars from the salvage auction before.
As for 'time', well, it's a hobby so I don't count that.
If everything had gone to plan then this car would have been MOT'd today and the insurance company notified so I could get a cover note to put it on the road on the 1st of June. But now it'll have to wait for a week or two!
It only has 50,000 miles on it so there can't be too much wrong with the suspension, etc. My old car had new front disc and pads in March for its MOT so I'll swap those over to the new car. As it's been stood for a few months the discs have rusted and the pads are pretty worn. I can clean the discs up on the lathe, use the old pads off my old car as they were only half worn, and put them into my old car...the first run to work (55 miles) will bed them in.
Regards
Peter
the secret to MOTs is to always go to the same place and then you have an idea what the examiner thinks is 'important'.
As for the V5, if I can't have one then I'll swap engines with my old mondeo as that's currently where the main cost is (new clutch, gaskets, seals, etc). It shouldn't be a problems though as I've bought a number of cars from the salvage auction before.
As for 'time', well, it's a hobby so I don't count that.
If everything had gone to plan then this car would have been MOT'd today and the insurance company notified so I could get a cover note to put it on the road on the 1st of June. But now it'll have to wait for a week or two!
It only has 50,000 miles on it so there can't be too much wrong with the suspension, etc. My old car had new front disc and pads in March for its MOT so I'll swap those over to the new car. As it's been stood for a few months the discs have rusted and the pads are pretty worn. I can clean the discs up on the lathe, use the old pads off my old car as they were only half worn, and put them into my old car...the first run to work (55 miles) will bed them in.
Regards
Peter
peterd51
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Hi,
I got the V5 through today!
And it doesn't mention that the car's been written off so that will double the resale value if I decide to sell it on next year!
I'm on lates this week so I haven't had time to do anything to the car. Although I've found a few bits of metal, 50mm box, 40mm box, etc, and put a design together to build a puller. Maybe if the weather's bad on Saturday morning I'll spend a couple of hours in the workshop welding it up.
Regards
Peter
I got the V5 through today!
And it doesn't mention that the car's been written off so that will double the resale value if I decide to sell it on next year!
I'm on lates this week so I haven't had time to do anything to the car. Although I've found a few bits of metal, 50mm box, 40mm box, etc, and put a design together to build a puller. Maybe if the weather's bad on Saturday morning I'll spend a couple of hours in the workshop welding it up.
Regards
Peter
peterd51
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Hi,
The weather looked a bit dodgy this morning, hammering down with rain. But it cleared around midday and I managed four hours work to finish off what I'd started yesterday. Just as I'd packed everything away it started raining again, but I'd fnished anyway!
I've got the rear floor straightened. The piece I bought from the scrap-yard has been trimmed and welded in...
The original rear 'valance' was a bit bent out of shape so I'd cut the damaged bit off with a view to replacing it, but the piece from the scrap-yard didn't look right at the right-hand end so I beat the original back into shape. It's all hidden behind the rear bumber anyway so it'll be OK I reckon.
With everything tacked into place I installed the replacement tailgate and made sure it closed! Then I welded everything up and ground it down.
Where I'd drilled out the spotwelds I knew I'd have problems filling the holes. So I cut some 1/2" (12mm) wide strips of metal and placed these in the middle of the joints between the two sections. This gave me something to run weld onto and I used the 'plug' weld method top and bottom of each joint. I finished off with a seam weld all along the bottom joint as this will be visible to the MOT inspector.
It's all been painted with Kurust for now and I've splodged seam sealer up the back of the box-section (up near the spare wheel well). I also covered some pin holes over on the rght-hand end of the top plate but there's a plastic cover over this section so it's not a major problem.
So this week I'll be painting the back end with a zinc primer and getting some underseal up the back of the rear box section. Then there's the bumpers to fit, and the replacement bonnet...three evenings at a couple of hours each should sort that.
Hopefully it'll be going for an MOT late this week.
Regards
Peter
The weather looked a bit dodgy this morning, hammering down with rain. But it cleared around midday and I managed four hours work to finish off what I'd started yesterday. Just as I'd packed everything away it started raining again, but I'd fnished anyway!
I've got the rear floor straightened. The piece I bought from the scrap-yard has been trimmed and welded in...
The original rear 'valance' was a bit bent out of shape so I'd cut the damaged bit off with a view to replacing it, but the piece from the scrap-yard didn't look right at the right-hand end so I beat the original back into shape. It's all hidden behind the rear bumber anyway so it'll be OK I reckon.
With everything tacked into place I installed the replacement tailgate and made sure it closed! Then I welded everything up and ground it down.
Where I'd drilled out the spotwelds I knew I'd have problems filling the holes. So I cut some 1/2" (12mm) wide strips of metal and placed these in the middle of the joints between the two sections. This gave me something to run weld onto and I used the 'plug' weld method top and bottom of each joint. I finished off with a seam weld all along the bottom joint as this will be visible to the MOT inspector.
It's all been painted with Kurust for now and I've splodged seam sealer up the back of the box-section (up near the spare wheel well). I also covered some pin holes over on the rght-hand end of the top plate but there's a plastic cover over this section so it's not a major problem.
So this week I'll be painting the back end with a zinc primer and getting some underseal up the back of the rear box section. Then there's the bumpers to fit, and the replacement bonnet...three evenings at a couple of hours each should sort that.
Hopefully it'll be going for an MOT late this week.
Regards
Peter
peterd51
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Hi,
on Monday I got the welds painted with a zinc primer and then got the rear bumper on. It's about 1/4" (6mm) low on the right hand end for some reason but if I ever get around to having the car re-sprayed then I'll need to take the bumper off and I can elongate the fixing holes... right hand up a bit & left hand down a bit, to level it up. It's just possible to see some of the yellow primer through the gap at the top of the bumper.
Tuesday I'd planned to get the front bumper on but it was raining heavily so I pottered around the workshop for a while. Then the rain eased slightly and I spent ten minutes taking the front brake discs off the car. I used the lathe to clean up one of the discs on Tuesday and did the second disc on Wednesday. Then I used a 6" sanding disk to flatten off the set of pads that came off my old car in March as the pads on this car were almost down to metal.
These will go onto my old car and the new set of discs and pads will go onto the new car. The reason is I don't want any hassle with brakes on the MOT as I've had problems in the past getting the balance right. I could never feel any 'pull' to one side while braking but a couple of times the MOT tester has insisted that the brakes were unbalanced.
Unfortunatley this isn't something I can test without his fancy rolling road. Although, I recall years ago there was a gadget with a bob-weight in, the tester would sit it on the floor of the car and drive at 20 mph then brake hard. If the pointer swung one way or the other then the brakes were unbalanced. I wonder if one could be made?
I looked at fitting the front bumper yesterday too, but the plastic lugs that the bumber screws into were shot to pieces. I don't like the design on these things so I'm looking at a different fixing method with nuts and bolts...if I can get my hand in the top to put the nut on. An alternative would be a something like a strip of nylon or maybe a plastic 'box section' that I can bung self-tapping screws into. If I have to I can weld 13mm nuts onto self-tapping screws to make it easier to wind them in with a long extension bar on my socket...
Regards
Peter
on Monday I got the welds painted with a zinc primer and then got the rear bumper on. It's about 1/4" (6mm) low on the right hand end for some reason but if I ever get around to having the car re-sprayed then I'll need to take the bumper off and I can elongate the fixing holes... right hand up a bit & left hand down a bit, to level it up. It's just possible to see some of the yellow primer through the gap at the top of the bumper.
Tuesday I'd planned to get the front bumper on but it was raining heavily so I pottered around the workshop for a while. Then the rain eased slightly and I spent ten minutes taking the front brake discs off the car. I used the lathe to clean up one of the discs on Tuesday and did the second disc on Wednesday. Then I used a 6" sanding disk to flatten off the set of pads that came off my old car in March as the pads on this car were almost down to metal.
These will go onto my old car and the new set of discs and pads will go onto the new car. The reason is I don't want any hassle with brakes on the MOT as I've had problems in the past getting the balance right. I could never feel any 'pull' to one side while braking but a couple of times the MOT tester has insisted that the brakes were unbalanced.
Unfortunatley this isn't something I can test without his fancy rolling road. Although, I recall years ago there was a gadget with a bob-weight in, the tester would sit it on the floor of the car and drive at 20 mph then brake hard. If the pointer swung one way or the other then the brakes were unbalanced. I wonder if one could be made?
I looked at fitting the front bumper yesterday too, but the plastic lugs that the bumber screws into were shot to pieces. I don't like the design on these things so I'm looking at a different fixing method with nuts and bolts...if I can get my hand in the top to put the nut on. An alternative would be a something like a strip of nylon or maybe a plastic 'box section' that I can bung self-tapping screws into. If I have to I can weld 13mm nuts onto self-tapping screws to make it easier to wind them in with a long extension bar on my socket...
Regards
Peter
peterd51
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Hi,
well it was a busy weekend as I had problems getting the brakes right on my old car...
but after a trip to the scrap-yard to pick up a spare disc and swapping one side and then the other I pinned it down. One of the discs must be 'out' slightly with a raised spot or a twist of some kind, but it looks perfect with a straight edge across it. It even looks OK on the lathe, I can't see or feel any problems, but it juddered the front of the car when I braked from 70 mph on the motorway.
Anyway it's got two good discs now and it brakes OK.
I've done the last couple of jobs on this car, the front bumper's in place. I installed the fog-lights today and made some brakets out of 3mm x 10mm, popped a couple of holes in each and a slight bend...
And finally, once I fit the front number plate, it's ready for MOT:
After running the engine up to normal temperature the other day I noticed an oil-leak from the 'front' of the engine, the end with the drive-belts. It's either the sump gasket hasn't quite sealed or the front crankshaft oil-seal leaking. But once it has it's MOT I'll be changing the timing belts and this'll give me a chance to ease the sump bolts off, squirt some sealer in there and tighten up, or change the oil-seal (or do both!).
As it stands now it's cost me £700 and a guy at work pointed out that I could have bought a mark 2 Mondeo out of the newspapers ads for that...but I coudn't have bought 'this' Mondeo. With only 50,000 miles on a diesel engine and a pre-accident value of £2000 the guy wouldn't have been interested in selling in and certainly not for what it's cost me!
With the MOT and the replacement timing belts I expect to pay a further £110 and that's it for a couple of years! On the plus side it's got an almost full fuel-tank (worth about £65 at current fuel costs) so I don't need to fill it for my first week at work.
Regards
Peter
well it was a busy weekend as I had problems getting the brakes right on my old car...
but after a trip to the scrap-yard to pick up a spare disc and swapping one side and then the other I pinned it down. One of the discs must be 'out' slightly with a raised spot or a twist of some kind, but it looks perfect with a straight edge across it. It even looks OK on the lathe, I can't see or feel any problems, but it juddered the front of the car when I braked from 70 mph on the motorway.
Anyway it's got two good discs now and it brakes OK.
I've done the last couple of jobs on this car, the front bumper's in place. I installed the fog-lights today and made some brakets out of 3mm x 10mm, popped a couple of holes in each and a slight bend...
And finally, once I fit the front number plate, it's ready for MOT:
After running the engine up to normal temperature the other day I noticed an oil-leak from the 'front' of the engine, the end with the drive-belts. It's either the sump gasket hasn't quite sealed or the front crankshaft oil-seal leaking. But once it has it's MOT I'll be changing the timing belts and this'll give me a chance to ease the sump bolts off, squirt some sealer in there and tighten up, or change the oil-seal (or do both!).
As it stands now it's cost me £700 and a guy at work pointed out that I could have bought a mark 2 Mondeo out of the newspapers ads for that...but I coudn't have bought 'this' Mondeo. With only 50,000 miles on a diesel engine and a pre-accident value of £2000 the guy wouldn't have been interested in selling in and certainly not for what it's cost me!
With the MOT and the replacement timing belts I expect to pay a further £110 and that's it for a couple of years! On the plus side it's got an almost full fuel-tank (worth about £65 at current fuel costs) so I don't need to fill it for my first week at work.
Regards
Peter
peterd51
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Hi,
it passed its MOT first time a couple of hours ago!
The only minor niggle was the nearside headlight was too low as the motor that adjusts height when heavily loaded in the boot was permanently driving the light down. So I cut the motor wire and manually adjusted the headlight.
The steering still feels a little stiff but I can play with that next week when I'm changing the timing belts. For now we're off to Bridlington for a few days.
Regards
Peter
it passed its MOT first time a couple of hours ago!
The only minor niggle was the nearside headlight was too low as the motor that adjusts height when heavily loaded in the boot was permanently driving the light down. So I cut the motor wire and manually adjusted the headlight.
The steering still feels a little stiff but I can play with that next week when I'm changing the timing belts. For now we're off to Bridlington for a few days.
Regards
Peter
whycanismellburning
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Well done Peter, it's been interesting following the progress ( and the odd step back!). Cheers, Stuart
TurboShed
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But does a V5 normally state if a car's been written off? My car was written off in 1996, HPI listed, but doesn't state anything on the V5.
peterd51
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Hi,
one of my collegues used to sell cars for a while and he gave some insight into the procedure.
Apparently it's down to the insurance company to notify the DVLA that the car's been written off. If they do then there's a 'note' on the front page of the V5 stating that the vehicle was substantially damaged on /data/.
My previous Mondeo write-off had a note like this.
If the insurance company forget, or can't be bothered, to notify the DVLA then there's nothing in the V5, like my current car.
Regards
Peter
one of my collegues used to sell cars for a while and he gave some insight into the procedure.
Apparently it's down to the insurance company to notify the DVLA that the car's been written off. If they do then there's a 'note' on the front page of the V5 stating that the vehicle was substantially damaged on /data/.
My previous Mondeo write-off had a note like this.
If the insurance company forget, or can't be bothered, to notify the DVLA then there's nothing in the V5, like my current car.
Regards
Peter
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The problem you have with anything like this is that if you ever have to make a claim on a vehicle which was once a 'total loss' they will probably not pay out the full value of the car. Knowing what the b*****s are like they'll wriggle out of paying you if they possibly can.
peterd51
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Hi,
as long as they pay me /something/...
in perfect condition without any damage the car would be worth about £1400 or so. But it's only cost me £800 and for that sum I know the clutch and timing belts have been renewed.
If I ony got £800 back for a write-off I've not lost anything. If I sell it and only get £1000, the buyer thinks he's got a bargain and I've made a profit even after putting 30,000 miles on it.
Regards
Peter
as long as they pay me /something/...
in perfect condition without any damage the car would be worth about £1400 or so. But it's only cost me £800 and for that sum I know the clutch and timing belts have been renewed.
If I ony got £800 back for a write-off I've not lost anything. If I sell it and only get £1000, the buyer thinks he's got a bargain and I've made a profit even after putting 30,000 miles on it.
Regards
Peter
Damaged
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Not if he reads this forum!
Seriously Peter, nice bit of work.
I for one wouldn't have attempted it.
