Bosch S60 trench compactor with JLO engine?

[R Kraft]

If you run into a seized piston on a two cycle, just use a grease gun to push it down the bore.
You make an adapter out of an old spark plug to screw onto the grease gun.
The 10,000 psi on top of a 4 square inch piston will always move it down to the first cylinder port.
This might also help.:
http://www.vintagesnow.com/Engine_manuals_files/JLO Service Manual.pdf

 

[sardine]

Get some oil boiling and tip it in, then tap the piston down gently with a piece of wood

Can you answer my pm about this tig torch I bought off you ages ago. It still hasn't arrived.

 

[julianf]

Ive just spotted this on ebay -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251994475377

Google translate says -

I offer here a Ilo engine
Used, well preserved

Type L 101


The engine has good compression and a rich spark
Where recognizable, pistons and cylinders without damage by one-and outlet

see Pictures
Also note our other offers

Worldwide shipping

Its too much money for me at its asking price, but im wondering if that may be a solution to the inactive whacker that i keep stepping over....

What do you think?

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Both of my plate compactors and my 'wacker' branded trench compactor all have clutches on them.

The bigger plate's clutch is currently seized, and while it 'works' it's a ****** to use - you really really want a clutch otherwise it shakes badly (rather than vibrating) when you knock the revs down or start it.

To be honest I inherited my knackered whacker plate, fitted a new plug and it worked but it has always vibrated from startup, perhaps, like yours, it has a clutch and it's seized.
It's a nightmare to use as the throttle is on the engine so to stop it you have to take one hand off the handle and try and reach over the engine to cut the revs!

 

[julianf]

Im still looking at sorting the engine on this one...

I think that the mechanical parts are just a case of buying the bits now, but i still have not got a spark from it - if i turn it over by hand, with my finger on the HT lead, it feels like an electric fence (or a weak one at least) but no spark.

Im hoping that this means that the stuff is working, just needs cleaning up, but i have not got the flywheel off yet to be able to investigate further.

 

[pedrobedro]

still have not got a spark from it - if i turn it over by hand, with my finger on the HT lead, it feels like an electric fence (or a weak one at least) but no spark.

Im hoping that this means that the stuff is working, just needs cleaning up, but i have not got the flywheel off yet to be able to investigate further.

You have to turn it a lot faster to generate a spark, can you put a socket on the flywheel nut and turn it with an electric drill or something ?

 

[julianf]

You have to turn it a lot faster to generate a spark, can you put a socket on the flywheel nut and turn it with an electric drill or something ?

Was going to do exactly that, but...

My battery drill's chuck wont open enough (i have no 1/4 and 3/8 extensions are too large for my chuck), and my other drills have no speed control (as the con rod is free at one end it may all rattle about too much for my liking at speed)

 

[julianf]

Is that possible just using the end of the wire, and the body of the engine?

...as i say, i cant get to any of the electrics without removing the flywheel, and ive not yet acquired a puller for that.

 

[julianf]

63k between the end of the lead and the body of the engine

Just uploading some photos of the job - its not a custom puller - i just dont have a standard one to hand either!

 

[julianf]

Note the HT lead... (bare end)

The puller recesses - one clockwise from the broken cooling fin -

 

[octo0072000]

that's not the puller bolt holes it the three broken off bolts near the flywheel nut

 

[julianf]

that's not the puller bolt holes it the three broken off bolts near the flywheel nut

I dont know about these things, but im really not sure as i agree.

There are three evenly spaced recesses into which a 3 jaw puller's 'feet' could grip onto, equally spaced around the edge of the wheel.

They must be there for a reason, and the way they are curved inward (you cant see in the photo) on the inner edge, just like what you would need for a 3 jaw puller to grip to....?

Like i say, i wont pretend to know stuff about these, but the recesses are there, and i cant see what else they would be for?

...and, besides, the other three threadded holes are useless to me! : )

 

[julianf]

If it is the three center bolts, they are all flush with the flywheel, so i have little hope of getting them out. Id assumed somthing was bolted onto them from the other side.

 

[octo0072000]

if you download the manual in the 21 post scroll to the end it shows you the special tools item 5 is flywheel pullers as i said it's the three broken off bolts that you use to pull the flywheel you will need to drill them out and re tap them

 

[julianf]

I really do see what you are saying, but...

The ends of the bolts have not been cracked. They are properly finished (ie chamfered edges, flat top) just like any other. I know the manual (not for my specific engine) has a puller that looks just right to connect to those points, but im still not convinced. Snapped bolts dont look like these.

Ive also just found this image on the web -

Its of another variant, but you can see the slots arround the edge of the flywheel better in that shot. You can also see the three 'bolts' still fitted on that one - ie i dont think they are just to do with connecting a puller.


I dont know - i can see what you are saying, but it just does not look like these bolts have all snapped off, leaving a perfect profile at the ends, all the flush with the mounting - im just not convinced.. (yet)