Question For Myford Lathe Owners

[Turbo]

I have just bought a ML7 lathe but the tailstock barrel is stuck solid. I have soaked it in penetrating fluid but it doesn't want to move. I think the problem lies with the barrel clamp.

From looking at the poor diagram in the manual I'm guessing it has 2 halves, one with a threaded rod coming from it which passes through the other half. On the other end of the threaded rod there is a chrome lever that you tighten to pull the 2 halves together and clamp the barrel.

Am I correct in the way it works? I have got the half that connects to the threaded rod loosened but the other half is stuck solid in the body of the tailstock. Can any of you that have Myfords check if this should be loose?

I tried to move it with a punch but no joy. I am tempted to try heat but I'm scared I could do damage.

 

[Pete.]

Even with the tailstock barrel stuck the handwheel should move a little (the amound of screw backlash it has). If it doesn't, the handle/screw assembly is seized. If it does move the barrel it seized - or it might be both.
Don't punch that top clamp downwards, you'll be driving it into the tailstock barrel. It's probably frozen due to a thin film of rust in the gap and will free up quite easily. Loosen the clamp lever and set a taper into the barrel then use a plastic hammer on the underside of the tapered attachment to rattle the assembly with many small taps until it frees up. Keep a light load on the handwheel and you'll know the instant it moves.

 

[MattF]

As Pete says, else the other option is to remove the screws on the split collar which retains the handwheel, so that you can spin the handwheel backwards slightly, and then tap the rear of the barrel to knock the barrel forward.

 

[Turbo]

Loosen the clamp lever and set a taper into the barrel then use a plastic hammer on the underside of the tapered attachment to rattle the assembly with many small taps until it frees up. Keep a light load on the handwheel and you'll know the instant it moves.

Thanks Pete, I'll try that.

As Pete says, else the other option is to remove the screws on the split collar which retains the handwheel, so that you can spin the handwheel backwards slightly, and then tap the rear of the barrel to knock the barrel forward.

I did think about removing the hand wheel but it is impossible. The hand wheel moves slightly (1/8th of a turn) but not enough to align the gap in the wheel with the retaining screw for the split collar.

 

[roofman]

it might of twisted over the slot key in the casting..cant remember now what retains this key but might be worth checking

 

[Turbo]

Got the tailstock freed up with a combination of Pete's and Matt's methods!

Fitting a centre and tapping it got the barrel moving very slightly. I made a new gap in the hand wheel to allow me to remove the retaining screw for the split collar.
I fitted the tailstock die adapter which allowed me to use a proper hammer and punch without damaging anything. It took a few good clouts before it eventually started to move. When it was out there was no obvious sign what was holding it but everything was soaked in the penetrating oil, a good sign that it works.

Someone had tried to remove it by levering against the barrel and had damaged the threads the handwheel runs on. I spent ages tidying them up using a needle file and a hacksaw blade but I have it running smoothly.

I was looking at the damage I had done to the barrel clamp and thought 'If I had a lathe I could tidy that up' - then I remembered what I was working on.

So the tailstock is now back together and working - thanks for the help guys.

 

[MattF]

I was looking at the damage I had done to the barrel clamp and thought 'If I had a lathe I could tidy that up' - then I remembered what I was working on.

Pillock. Glad to hear you got it sorted.

 

[Pete.]

Well done that man!

Now have at it with a scotchbrite and wd40 you'll have it looking all spangly in no time.