Show us your bench vice(s)

[MattF]

The nut on those is a bit phaffy as I recall, and if I recall correctly, it uses an acme or square thread. That setup apprently works quite well, by all accounts, but the traditional half nut with buttress thread leadscrew is a more robust solution, IMHO.

 

[Turbo]

Yep, I've seen those before. The quick release works by turning the handle about 1 turn in the undoing direction and then the jaw should slide freely. Then just tighten the handle again.

That's the way I thought it worked but I wasn't sure about it as the mechanism is all a bit stiff from old sticky grease and some rust on the slide. I'll strip it down and get a better look at the workings.

That's definitely an English one. It's the ones which just say "Sheffield, England", without the "Made in" part which might be either/either, though even that's unknown.

That's good to know, even for future reference.

Good news is that the Record 111 and the bench grinder I bought have made it to this end of the country. Hopefully collecting them today. The guy asked me if I was interested in another vice, still waiting on details of what it is.

 

[HughF]

Having installed the welding table I collected from mbconfuse yesterday, I started looking at putting a vice on the end. I've always used leg vices, and we have at least 20... I started looking at engineers vices and had a quick count up.

Record no 8
Record no 4 x 4
Record no 3 x 2
swindens 4 inch

The records have all lived outside so need a soak to free them up. The swindens just needs a good clean.

 

[HughF]

This belongs to my good lady, will get it bolted down later today.

 

[Turbo]

I am now the proud owner of a Record No. 111! As requested here's some pics.

It's a big hunk of steel - that's a big mug - same size as a 500ml tin of beer!

Jaws are worn smooth but fairly free of serious damage.

Quick release lever was very stiff so I removed it and I got it freed up with penetrating oil. Once it was off curiosity got the better of me and 10 minutes later I had it stripped into it's major components. I only came out to take photos, still wearing my slippers!

It's now soaking in degreaser before jet washing it and then into the electrolysis tank. It's absolutely caked in dried grease, dirt and many layers of paint, carefully applied with a trowel by the look of it.

Oh, and I got the bench grinder too.

Made in Taiwan but it's virtually identical to my sealey one. End guards missing but the stones are like new. It runs smoothly and very quiet but is displaying a lot of end float, I suspect there's a spring washer missing in the bearing cup.

He has another vice available, not sure what it is but he says it's 'very old'.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Under all that paint the 111 looks to be in great condition, I reckon a session in the e-bath will have that looking like new, all the paint will fall off with an e-bath followed by a pressure wash.

The slide doesn't look like it's been hammered, it's not covered in weld, and there doesn't look like it has much wear other than the jaw faces. A goo buy

 

[Turbo]

I reckon a session in the e-bath will have that looking like new, all the paint will fall off with an e-bath followed by a pressure wash.

That's one of the best things about the e-bath, it strips off everything saving a lot of work. Any paint that's left is extremely well stuck on, though I find that running the battery charger on 24v and the 'boost' setting will shift stubborn stuff.

I'll must take a pic of my sacrificial plates, they're starting to develop holes!

 

[roofman]

That's one of the best things about the e-bath, it strips off everything saving a lot of work. Any paint that's left is extremely well stuck on, though I find that running the battery charger on 24v and the 'boost' setting will shift stubborn stuff.

I'll must take a pic of my sacrificial plates, they're starting to develop holes!

can you post details about this e-bath please bud

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Have a google of electrolytic rust removal for the science of it all but basically get a tub big enough for the thing you want to de-rust, fill it with water, add washing soda to it to make it conductive to electricity, get some scrap steel to be your sacrificial electrode and then just connect a battery charger with red on the sacrificial electrode and black on your piece that needs de-rusting.

Add sacrificial steel electrodes in a few places around the item and connect them together with wire.

 

[roofman]

Have a google of electrolytic rust removal for the science of it all but basically get a tub big enough for the thing you want to de-rust, fill it with water, add washing soda to it to make it conductive to electricity, get some scrap steel to be your sacrificial electrode and then just connect a battery charger with red on the sacrificial electrode and black on your piece that needs de-rusting.

Add sacrificial steel electrodes in a few places around the item and connect them together with wire.

cheers mate for the pointer

 

[Turbo]

Make sure you connect the charger leads correctly otherwise the part you are trying to clean will dissolve! (don't ask how I know this )

 

[roofman]

Make sure you connect the charger leads correctly otherwise the part you are trying to clean will dissolve! (don't ask how I know this )

will do

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Easy way to remember is that red is for danger, so don't connect it to your part

 

[Maker]

I had a nice big bucket with a lid I was planing to use for that but I dropped a piece of train track in it and cracked the bottom.

I know the Product of electrolysis ∝ current X surface area X time which basically means you can half the time by doubling the current and still get the same effect. As this is a welding forum; Would a transformer stick welder work?

 

[CwazyWabbit]

It would need to be a DC welder, look up 'the sunken side car of doom' on youtube to see that very thing done.

 

[MattF]

Once it was off curiosity got the better of me and 10 minutes later I had it stripped into it's major components. I only came out to take photos, still wearing my slippers!

The infamous: "I'll only be five minutes" job. Good to hear you finally have it there. Looks in decent nick too.

 

[MattF]

I know the Product of electrolysis ∝ current X surface area X time which basically means you can half the time by doubling the current and still get the same effect.

In reality, you'll note little difference in time, allowing it to sink shedloads of current. You'll just be ramping your electricity bill up for no real benefit. A couple of Amp's at 12V is all you realistically need.

 

[Maker]

In reality, you'll note little difference in time, allowing it to sink shedloads of current. You'll just be ramping your electricity bill up for no real benefit. A couple of Amp's at 12V is all you realistically need.

PC power supply then, I've got a few laying around.

 

[MattF]

That'll do fine. I experimented quite a bit with current a few years ago, and everything from a small piece to quite a large one will merrily derust at 2A or less. Above that, you're usually just generating lots of bubbles, (the bubbling effect can actually be somewhat helpful with paint removal), but not making any real difference to the time taken. These days, I just work on the philosophy that as long as it's drawing at least 1/2A, that'll do me, and I limit the current to around 1.5A-2A maximum, using a variable, current limiting bench power supply.

 

[Turbo]

E-bath link.http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp