Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

KimB · Feb 27, 2015

Okay so I did a bit today and yesterday. Still haven't rubbed the axles down

didn't want to get my hair dirty lol. Maybe tomorrow I'll do it. Anyway have done a little bit.
Started by removing the rear hubs to save weight as its really heavy for me to drag around.

Then pulled the swivels out in one peice.
I was worried as everyone's been telling me how hard it is to get 7 swivel bolts out. Luckily it was dead simple, just the grease stunk, bluhhh.

Pulled both swivels off and left me with a much lighter axle.

I then noticed this and it made me miserable. Felt like one thing after another. I Had to do some actual work after but carried on today.

First thing this morning I picked up my bulkhead. Made me so happy. It's come out so well. Some places are so neatly done (at least I think so) that you can't notice a repaire. Here's three photos I got as soon as I got home

I think it'd be nice to compare so here's three photos when I got it from blasters

Looks so good and I thought it would never end but it looks so good now

KimB · Feb 27, 2015

As well today i took delivery of my paint, finally!!!

I got to play with my new toy

Then after working out how to mix the paints and working out what all the knobs do I got painting

did three costes of jotun 87 on the blasted parts today, they came out quite well for my first time with a spray gun

, yes I know I left them bolted together but have no reason to pull it apart...

That's it for today. I will spray them black tomorrow. And if it's nice I'll paint strip the axles and paint them

or start to. It won't be quick thoigg but if I can get them painted by the end of the weekend I'll get the parts Monday and re assemble same day if I can.

Cobbler · Feb 27, 2015

Looking really good. Can't wait for the next instalment.

awemawson · Feb 27, 2015

OK Kim 'fess up - where did you buy that new bulkhead :clapping:

Would it not be much easier to take the axle casings to your blaster - that way at least the rust should be gone for ever

KimB · Feb 27, 2015

Cobbler said:
Looking really good. Can't wait for the next instalment.

Thanks

awemawson said:
OK Kim 'fess up - where did you buy that new bulkhead

Would it not be much easier to take the axle casings to your blaster - that way at least the rust should be gone for ever

Thanks lol it looks great doesn't it!
It would be but Im a bit tight on cash. I've spent probably 2500 in last two weeks on it. And I can't separate rear axle and diff anyway because of how they are made, you need a special tool. (No I am not the tool lol)

stormin · Feb 27, 2015

Have you tried the rear diff. If it's been out before, chances are so ones relieved the edges with a grinder to make it easier next time. I didn't think the tool was that difficult to make anyway.

What's happened to the bulkhead, blasted again or zinc coated? Just looks like a zinc phosphate coating and not the zinc spraying I was expecting, doesn't look bright enough.

KimB · Feb 27, 2015

stormin said:
Have you tried the rear diff. If it's been out before, chances are so ones relieved the edges with a grinder to make it easier next time. I didn't think the tool was that difficult to make anyway.

What's happened to the bulkhead, blasted again or zinc coated? Just looks like a zinc phosphate coating and not the zinc spraying I was expecting, doesn't look bright enough.

I've not tried and don't really plan on it either.

Bulkhead was zinc plated. By http://www.rfiscreening.co.uk/rfi_contact.html

SmartWerks · Feb 27, 2015

Outgasing is heating the part for a sustained period of time to purge the casting of contaminants prior to blasting. This is why you see the finish on painted calipers not lasting long. High temp paint makes no difference as it's contaminants coming out of the metal when they get warm. When powder coating cast you outgas the part at 210 degrees at pmt for an hour then blast to remove contamination and provide a key. Glass bead shouldn't be used as it peens the surface driving contamination back into the casting. If you didn't do that when you cured the powder the cast would outgas causing pinholes in the finish. Basically you have outgased the part whilst curing the powder, the same happens when you paint but the outgasing occurs under cured paint causing it to lift whilst in operation.

stormin · Feb 27, 2015

SmartWerks said:
Outgasing is heating the part for a sustained period of time to purge the casting of contaminants prior to blasting. This is why you see the finish on painted calipers not lasting long. High temp paint makes no difference as it's contaminants coming out of the metal when they get warm. When powder coating cast you outgas the part at 210 degrees at pmt for an hour then blast to remove contamination and provide a key. Glass bead shouldn't be used as it peens the surface driving contamination back into the casting. If you didn't do that when you cured the powder the cast would outgas causing pinholes in the finish. Basically you have outgased the part whilst curing the powder, the same happens when you paint but the outgasing occurs under cured paint causing it to lift whilst in operation.

Any reason you can't out gas then paint with primer and top coats? I've never had a problem with paint lifting on a surface blasted to SA 2.5 without having to heat at any point.

stormin · Feb 27, 2015

KimB said:
I've not tried and don't really plan on it either.

Bulkhead was zinc plated. By http://www.rfiscreening.co.uk/rfi_contact.html

Come to think of it the finish on the returned bulkhead does resemble zinc sheet.

SmartWerks · Feb 27, 2015

stormin said:
Any reason you can't out gas then paint with primer and top coats? I've never had a problem with paint lifting on a surface blasted to SA 2.5 without having to heat at any point.

No reason at all. your blasting process is probably the reason for your success, cleaned the peened. But I wouldn't garuntee a finish on a cast part that hadn't been outgased on a part that can get hot.

where the calipers that held up being painted cast or billet?

stormin · Feb 28, 2015

SmartWerks said:
No reason at all. your blasting process is probably the reason for your success, cleaned the peened. But I wouldn't garuntee a finish on a cast part that hadn't been outgased on a part that can get hot.

where the calipers that held up being painted cast or billet?

I've not painted calipers after blasting. Zinc plated the ones on my old Discovery.

SmartWerks · Feb 28, 2015

I've had zinc plated calipers from brake engineering, the finish didn't last. Car was driven very hard tho

KimB · Feb 28, 2015

I have to say this jotun paint is incredible. Trying to key the surface of the j87 it emery pad would barely touch it!

KimB · Feb 28, 2015

Hi everyone.

So today as I said I was paint stripping and painting, been horribly boring but had to be done and got tonnes of parts stripped l. Still have a few to do but nothing that 2hours won't finish tomorrow I hope. Anyway I took a couple photos throught the day. Nothing major but it's taken me over 8hours to do what I have.

Started on the front axle it's not finished in the photo but did do as much as I could with the wire wheel.

Then decided to strip the panhard rod and other bars

Then did rear axle and as I said before I've got to replace the cups on the lower shock mounts so that will hold up painting it till I get them :/

The camera doesn't show for some cool reason but it was getting dark on this photo and began raining so I decided to leave the rest and start painting.

As I said in my previous post I tried keying the jotun 87 primer I'm using and it really is so tough!! I couldn't believe it. My friends having issues with paint chipping because of the paint he used, I'm having issues prepping for final lol good issues though!
Anyway I prepped them

Then painted it all

the jotun hardtop I used for top coat is a bit thinner paint and went everywhere. For the first coat I had one sleeve rolled up because it was warm and now my arm looks funny, I also touched my nose with it clearly on my hands and have it smeared up my nose :doh:

Using the flash I got a photo of how the paint looks

Anyway, glad how it's coming out

really getting through it, trying to get everything painted and prepped for getting the chassis next week

then can paint that and get it rolling, next Monday i hope to have a rolling chassis if all goes to plan

Kim

Robotstar5 · Feb 28, 2015

I made a couple of "brackets" to make the axle case easier to work on...

KimB · Feb 28, 2015

Robotstar5 said:
I made a couple of "brackets" to make the axle case easier to work on...

View attachment 60800

Fab idea, my idea was to be super lazy and something In either end to allow me to just flip it over.

colnerov · Mar 1, 2015

Hi, I see you taped up the ends of the rear axle, but did you do the same or stuff rags in the ends of the front one? If not I would pull the diff and wash both out because all that shi...debris will be like Carborundum and ruin the diff in no time flat. Now how did I know that? :whistle:

Colin

KimB · Mar 1, 2015

colnerov said:
Hi, I see you taped up the ends of the rear axle, but did you do the same or stuff rags in the ends of the front one? If not I would pull the diff and wash both out because all that shi...debris will be like Carborundum and ruin the diff in no time flat. Now how did I know that?

Colin

I cut tape for the front axle

just can't be seen

darren.a.roberts · Mar 1, 2015

KimB said:
I've not tried and don't really plan on it either.

Bulkhead was zinc plated. By http://www.rfiscreening.co.uk/rfi_contact.html

Great work so far Kim.....being nosey was the bulkhead very expensive to get zinc plated?

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