TIG On Aluminium

[Richard.]

I just looked in the book and it says the maximum weld penetration is at Wave Balance 10% and maximum cleaning is at Wave Balance 65%

If that's the case that is a much better range. So 10% would be 90% en and 65% would be 35% en so set it around 30% which would be 70% en then fine tune till your happy with the bead cleanliness and tungsten stability.

 

[Richard.]

Just to confirm we are heading in the right direction. What balance figure was displayed on the machine when you were experiencing these problems.

 

[Mr shiney]

Just to confirm we are heading in the right direction. What balance figure was displayed on the machine when you were experiencing these problems.

I set it to 55%-65% and thats when it become obvious!!

 

[Richard.]

Super stuff I was kinda hoping you would give me a figure above 50%. So we are heading the right way then . Set it at 30 then fine tune from there. A 1.6 tungsten might be happier at 35 but you will see when you get going. It's nice to know these things as your machine works the other way to mine, on yours you set the ep value on mine you set the en value. Pics of Ali welds would be good when your up and running.

 

[Mr shiney]

Going to go and have a crack in a bit. I will let you know!!

 

[Mr shiney]

Quick update! Set the Wave to 30% and the frequency to 140z and its giving lovely weld (as lovely as my limited ability gives!) on 1.6mm. Just done a couple of nice butt welds with good penetration and a nice finish on a Ceriated Tungsten. Interestingly the tungsten now holds its shape, no balling just the flat end. Should I be shaping it with the grinder?

 

[Richard.]

Quick update! Set the Wave to 30% and the frequency to 140z and its giving lovely weld (as lovely as my limited ability gives!) on 1.6mm. Just done a couple of nice butt welds with good penetration and a nice finish on a Ceriated Tungsten. Interestingly the tungsten now holds its shape, no balling just the flat end. Should I be shaping it with the grinder?

You can prep the tungsten many ways to get the desired arc width which is also influenced by frequency. For example if I was doing a fillet weld I would not want a wide arc all over the side walls so I would grind the tungsten to a point reasonably shallow angle and put a small flat on the end to encourage a small ball when it's loaded. I'd also have quite a high frequency set 100-120hz which as well narrows the arc. A thick section butt joint I would probably use a flat edged tungsten (no prep) and 50hz to widen the arc out.
Best thing you can do is have a go. Get some tungstens put a variety of preps on them and adjust the frequency from 50-150 and watch how that arc changes which will suit various types of joint

 

[Richard.]

I also see your welding on 6mm plate. That's gonna take currents more suited to a 2.4mm tungsten just to generate a puddle.
You'll get on better with a 2.4 on material that thick

 

[Mr shiney]

Thanks Richard, I will try your suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to give advice.

 

[langy]

Super stuff I was kinda hoping you would give me a figure above 50%. So we are heading the right way then . Set it at 30 then fine tune from there. A 1.6 tungsten might be happier at 35 but you will see when you get going. It's nice to know these things as your machine works the other way to mine, on yours you set the ep value on mine you set the en value. Pics of Ali welds would be good when your up and running.

Sounds like this machine is like mine, the cleaning/penetration control works the opposite way to what you think it should, had me going for a bit when I first got it.

 

[Richard.]

Yeah it would me too, I'd lose a good inch of tungsten before I'd realise it works in reverse.

 

[antonio costa]

I only avoided that because I had read about that on weldingweb forum when I was trying to decide what machine to buy.
If it wasn't for that I probably would curse and blame the machine at first because since I've never seen a machine with wave balance reversed and to be fair I've the really bad habit of not reading instruction manual...

Yeah it would me too, I'd lose a good inch of tungsten before I'd realise it works in reverse.

 

[Mr shiney]

Does anyone have an amps and set up chart for Aluminium TIG? There is one fro steel/stainless in the tutorials but I can't find anything for aluminium.

 

[Richard.]

Does anyone have an amps and set up chart for Aluminium TIG? There is one fro steel/stainless in the tutorials but I can't find anything for aluminium.

Do you not have a foot controller?

 

[Mr shiney]

Do you not have a foot controller?

Yep, in the loft and not really geared up to use it at the moment. I have been playing with the pulse mode on it which seems to work quite well on heat control.

I want to have a go at making a 4mm bash plate for my XR400.

 

[Richard.]

If it works get your pedal out the loft. It makes Alu Tig much more bearable.
Aluminium has an oxide layer and is also self oxidising so even if you scrub back that layer with in a few hours you'll need to do it again.
This layer has a melting point of 3x as much as the Alu itself. with a torch switch you need to set your high current on the machine to break through that layer but then ideally the current needs to be backed off or you'll be chasing it as it melts away. A pedal takes this problem away. Aluminium also is a serious heat conductor and when it's cold it requires a lot more heat to get it going then when it's got heat in it. If your looking to make a really nice job of what your making dig out your pedal and don't worry about what amps you need etc as you will be varying the current as your welding.

 

[Mr shiney]

If it works get your pedal out the loft. It makes Alu Tig much more bearable.
Aluminium has an oxide layer and is also self oxidising so even if you scrub back that layer with in a few hours you'll need to do it again.
This layer has a melting point of 3x as much as the Alu itself. with a torch switch you need to set your high current on the machine to break through that layer but then ideally the current needs to be backed off or you'll be chasing it as it melts away. A pedal takes this problem away. Aluminium also is a serious heat conductor and when it's cold it requires a lot more heat to get it going then when it's got heat in it. If your looking to make a really nice job of what your making dig out your pedal and don't worry about what amps you need etc as you will be varying the current as your welding.

Thanks, I understand that. Unfortunately my workshop is not geared up for me to be able to use it at the moment. Bench is to high to use a pedal and no space under it. I know I will have to get something done about it in due course but at the moment its just not practical.

 

[Richard.]

The other thing as well which applies to AC and DC is a pedal is perfect for sloping in and out and getting shot of those crators. Yes your machine will have settings to do this but you need to give it numerical values then trial and erra the pedal you just back off gradually sloping down the current while getting that final dab of filler in to sort out the crator. Spot on every time.

 

[Richard.]

What is the joint your welding on the 4mm thick Alu.

 

[Mr shiney]

What is the joint your welding on the 4mm thick Alu.

I am taking a sheet of 4mm and cutting sections out and then will fold it together to create what will be effectively butt welds but with sloping side rather that flat. I will need to weld both sides for aesthetics.

It will go onto the front of the frame to protect the engine.