norlander
Member
- Messages
- 3,389
- Location
- Europe, mocycling paradise
- Thread starter lotus 30
- Start date
and not enuf 
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
No welding practice today i took the advice of the forum and i have been having a look at the water cooling tank that came with the big tig
this is what i found it is shot rusted out i had a nose about i think this plastic tank will do the job
langy
langys rodshop
- Messages
- 6,095
- Location
- London
Yeah plastic as got be better, I made one with a 3 gallon drum, worked brilliantly and I reckon it could of been smaller
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
I did too to be fair.
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
Should i add antifreeze in the cooling tank as i don't want to freeze the torch and split it.
Yep but not a full strength 50% mix that you'd use in a car engine... i wouldn't run more than 30 or 40% tops as the water ways in the torch head are tiny and while it's fairly rare it's not unheard of for them to be gunked up by the anti corrosion additives in some automotive coolants.
There are specific welding coolants (relatively spendy though) which typically use ethylene glycol and isopropyl alcohol in deionised water. Here's the MSDS for Binzel coolant http://www.binzel-abicor.com/upload...ta_sheets/English/D0006242_MSDS_BTC_15_EN.pdf although they've done the usual thing of using scientific names. The deionised water bit is important as much, if not more, for the low conductivity as scale deposits
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
. The deionised water bit is important as much, if not more, for the low conductivity as scale deposits[/QUOTE]
Deionised water is not a problem as i run two dehumidifiers i can use the water from them thank you.
Deionised water is not a problem as i run two dehumidifiers i can use the water from them thank you.
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
Now i have the torch water cooling finished i thought i would give it another go
It is old 1.5mm ali i don't have much to adjust on the ADR welder i run it on 60/230 amp setting with very little peddle Most of my jobs will be on old stuff to repair that is why i practice on this material The second pic is the penetration
It is old 1.5mm ali i don't have much to adjust on the ADR welder i run it on 60/230 amp setting with very little peddle Most of my jobs will be on old stuff to repair that is why i practice on this material The second pic is the penetration
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
If thats all i will have it all covered by lunch time tomorrow I WISH. thanks for the input you have to bear your sole on this forum but well worth it.
I will do some more tomorrow and Finnish of the argon i will try some joints.
wheresmejumper
Banned
- Messages
- 2,626
Old stuff can still be cleaned!
pedal
pedal
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
I do wire brush the weld area with a stainless wire brush what would you recommend
wheresmejumper
Banned
- Messages
- 2,626
Do the underside aswell.a stainless wire wheel or cup brush would have it done in no time
every little bit counts when tigging aluminium
every little bit counts when tigging aluminium
Richard.
Member
- Messages
- 18,344
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
No point in trying joints
Sorry but it will only lead to disappointment , get those runs looking great on the plate then transfer those great looking runs into butt joints.
Have you done much with DC Tig. Everything works a little slower with DC allowing you time to perfect things. I learnt to Tig weld to a reasonable standard over the course of a year solid and probably another year to get good with Aluminium. It's up to you but I would not move on to the next step till I'd perfected the first one. Other wise you may as well get a pipe stick it at 45 degrees and go straight in at 6G, you'll be throwing in the towel by the end of the day as you'll see no pleasing results which is demoralising. Hope you see this as positive help as that is what is intended.
Sorry but it will only lead to disappointment , get those runs looking great on the plate then transfer those great looking runs into butt joints.
Have you done much with DC Tig. Everything works a little slower with DC allowing you time to perfect things. I learnt to Tig weld to a reasonable standard over the course of a year solid and probably another year to get good with Aluminium. It's up to you but I would not move on to the next step till I'd perfected the first one. Other wise you may as well get a pipe stick it at 45 degrees and go straight in at 6G, you'll be throwing in the towel by the end of the day as you'll see no pleasing results which is demoralising. Hope you see this as positive help as that is what is intended.
lotus 30
classic car enthusiast mostly lotus
- Messages
- 713
- Location
- caldicot south wales uk
I have taken your advice just practice this morning trying different things i am amazed at the inconsistent results it looks as if i prefer the sif no28 rod mind you the others have hung around for years. I need to back of a little more as the heat sink builds also coming up on the power as i reach the end to stop blowing holes.
I will do some stainless this afternoon to try the DC on the machine. Lots to learn to get it looking like a proper weld.
