heres someone who has first hand experience with the machine rather than me just voicing my opinion.
another ridiculously cheap build that isnt worth much in my opinion, but ive never used it so im not gonna slate it
What about the digital neater does it show the amps all the time or just when your welding
Unless your using this machine at its high end capacity for long runs without a breather I would not put the importance of duty cycle at the top of your buying list.
Your posts don't read well, I don't know what this means.
When is the next time your going to use the welder
Because ther is no info about the digital readout weather it's on when your welding or or showing the amps constantly
The display says operating amps. I would imagine it is used to set the current and in that case the display will read the current you set all the time. I cannot be sure though.
This is what terry hill at cws said
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I'm not sure if it's relevent to the cws set in question but if this set has constant current mig then the digital amp readout serves a purpose as you would use that readout to set your amps and the wire feed speed would be the variable. I prefer to do mig this way knowing that if there is any small variations in my stick out I'm going to be getting 100 amps still. That is of course if it works that way.going a bit off topic, I saw a chinese machine that did that--and it baffles me, first off, I've never used a MIG where the amps are displayed and never needed to see em ,as you go by area setting on controls and then tweak on wire speed settings, but, if the current is displayed only when welding, I don't get that either, I aint going to look up from the puddle to see what amps I am running at-and for my purposes with MIG I don't care what amps are coming out, I just get her singing on the ball park settings and wire speed as stated.
The figures quoted should always (in most cases) be taken with a pinch of salt.I have been lucky in that I got taken around a factory where welders are made. I saw where they were tested.
There was a 160 amp MIG unit that knocks out a genuine 160 amps when the gun trigger is pressed and the wire is feeding and welding. They were so confident in its ability to do that on a constant basis that the unit is called a 162.
When I asked about this, it was explained that, with a lot of of the lower end kit, the actual power output stated maybe what the components should put out when the trigger is pulled, but in fact its not, and I guess the cheaper machines may not sustain the max power stated (but thats supposition-electronics is a mystery to me).
So, for the home DIY/hobby I'd pay less attention to detailed facts n figures, and in particular duty cycle-the mention of which for hobby welders can send me off on one-unless you building a blasted canal boat, you will not be laying down long runs, and will be stopping and starting-yes on some jobs, once all tacked up, you may go give the machine a bit of a run but mine never trips the cutout, and if it did I'd just go for a cuppa tea.
Decide what you want or might want to weld-and I would say 1mm sheet to 3mm mild steel for home stuff. Then, if buying a lower end cheap set, go for a 150/160 amp as even if it does not hit its stated top end, you should still be in with a chance, if its bottom end is 30amps and it does not knock out 30, thats OK (but not if it knocks out 40 at its lower setting-but-electronics again, and don't know about that stuff
If nobody on here has got and used a set being asked about, buying one is going to be pot luck.The chinese sets have improved and are better-I was told that by a chap who works for the production facility I visited.
Fine, then, there is who you buy it from and the back up they will give you if it plays up.
The cheap end welders are maybe a bit like politicians, they promise a lot but when in power often don't deliver it-but you are free to vote for who you like.
