fitting a shower tray

[BrokenBiker]

not done this before. its not a paying job, its a favour for a mate so he can get tenants in his house asap.

he is supplying everything and I owe him a few favours.

been told that a shower base needs to be sat on a bed of mortar. is this genuine or is someone taking the P*ss?

 

[500e]

Is it upstairs or on ground floor

 

[cumbriasteve]

I was told the same, I was also told if it was put onto wooden flooring ( as mine was) it was better to sit it on silicone...a lot of silicone , evenly spread.

I used 5 tubes, that was 10 years ago..no problems at all.

 

[lshigham]

I usually use gripfill bit silicone works too

 

[BrokenBiker]

what is the purpose of the mortar?

 

[CRB]

I laid mine on mortar ten years ago........now she wants a bath back in.....

BB, a firm base. I put a wide bed around the perimeter, and wide bands across the central area.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Is it upstairs or on ground floor

second floor onto wood floorboards

 

[BrokenBiker]

I laid mine on mortar ten years ago........now she wants a bath back in.....

BB, a firm base. I put a wide bed around the perimeter, and wide bands across the central area.

so its just to firm up the base then?

 

[CRB]

No bounce in the tray would mean a lot less flex around the outside sealed edges.

I cannot remember why I used mortar, because it is a sturdy fibreglass tray. Possibly because I had to have it flush with the floor level, so it is actually on the beams.

 

[Pete.]

I built two showers onto floorboards by buying tray/enclosure/tiles/mixer. Both leaked and had to be re-grouted several times. After that I ripped it out and bought a shower from Brownes. Best £700 I ever spent, got mine in a deal it's fully independant, got a 12" 'monsoon' head, normal shower head, steam generator and even a radio built in.

http://www.browneshealth.co.uk/

 

[BrokenBiker]

right. think I will use mortar, majority of the vids I have just seen on youtube show them painting on some PVA then once that has dried laying mortar down and bedding the tray onto that so I will follow suit. I am also tiling the floor (being paid for that) so I can ensure it is neat once the mortar has cured

 

[500e]

Our ones are on joists with reinforcement to stop bounce ceramic trays with up-stand on edge to bring tiles or board down over, why do the manufacturers make most of the sanitary fittings with a top edge that slope outwards, the builder put about 6 bags of cement in the tray when he did the sealing, same as me & herself bouncing around in there lasted 25 years so far, now she wants new bathrooms extension on house & work in the garden

 

[BrokenBiker]

same as me & herself bouncing around in there

stop playing tennis in the shower...how do you fit the net?

 

[Shedendman]

I take it your shower tray is cast concrete not plastic?
If it is,you do not bed it straight onto floorboards lift the area of boards up first and replace with external ply,why,well if you have to do any pipework/maintenance in that place and the floorboards run under the tray your gonna have to up the whole lot.
DONT use mortar theres no need esp on any wood the two dont like each other over time plus its to course to get it level, use a good stiff mix of tile adhesive seeing as your tiling the floor,thinking of which are you going to tile straight over floorboards????????????????

 

[sparkysy]

I would agree with stalwart at least overboard with something stiff on floorboards external ply is good! And she will apriciate an under floor heating kit too man points

 

[BrokenBiker]

She?? doing this for a mate that I owe a few favours.

as for floor tiling, not sure of the situation yet, haven't been in the house for about 3 months and wasn't really paying attention then. he mentioned having some new floor boards put down a while back, ive been told to pva floorboards then adhesive and tile, leave to set and then grout in.

not sure what tray he is buying, will probably be a cheap plastic job.

cutting the floar boards and using ply is a good idea, future proof for maintenance work

 

[sparkysy]

Oops sorry wrong end of the stick there! Yeah pva first, and I hate those trays I had to pack wood under one to stop the flex in it it was that thin!

 

[Shedendman]

ive been told to pva floorboards then adhesive and tile, leave to set and then grout in.

Whoever told you that is talking out of their backside

 

[CRB]

I would agree with stalwart at least overboard with something stiff on floorboards external ply is good! And she will apriciate an under floor heating kit too man points

First time I had done that too.

Underfloor heating does tend to turn the room into a fermenting room...just starting that little game too.

 

[Woody.v8]

She?? doing this for a mate that I owe a few favours.

as for floor tiling, not sure of the situation yet, haven't been in the house for about 3 months and wasn't really paying attention then. he mentioned having some new floor boards put down a while back, ive been told to pva floorboards then adhesive and tile, leave to set and then grout in.

not sure what tray he is buying, will probably be a cheap plastic job
cutting the floar boards and using ply is a good idea, future proof for maintenance work

The correct way of tiling wooden floors is to First screw ply down to the floor boards to minimize movement, Then get the correct latex 2 part adhesive and flexible grout, Its expensive but the only way to tile on to a wooden sub-straight with out future problems.