What make of drill and drill bits should I buy?

[nellway]

My cheapie chinese drill (which has lasted several years) has suddenly stuck on hammer drill mode - making it useless for my car restoration work.

I could replace it with another cheapo tool, but have decided to buy something decent instead. What do you chaps think is the best type/brand of drill to buy as a replacement. I will be drinning various grades of steel and aluminium over then next couple of years, so something with a slow speed I guess.

I have also just ordered a set of Heller cobalt drill bits, but got very confused between Heller Erbauer and Sealey and just flipped a three sided coin.

Which drill bits do you find last longest?

Thanks.

 

[Wozzaaah]

I can vouch for the Bosch GSB 20-2RE, fantastic drill and a superb quality Rohm chuck too. Torquey as hell but also has a safety clutch so if the bit grabs it won't break your wrist. Doesn't come cheap though, around £115. Bits-wise, not really used many makes so I can't comment.

 

[HasBean]

I use Titex bits (part of Dormer)
Mostly cobalt split point 135 deg stub drills, not cheap but worth it.
The angle and split point makes for accurate centring, specially on thin material. (Normal length bits also available)

 

[rtbcomp]

If you're doing slow work get one with a mechanical speed change, this will give better torque than just slowing the motor down electronically. Also the motor will be running fast which is better for cooling.

 

[snowcat]

I have a 2000watt makita drill for pistol work, 8yrs old now and has been excellent, For bits as a general rule sets are normally crap, when I did lots of steel fixing, especially for drilling 12swg sheeting which takes the edge off any bit's id use American quad bits.....or wurth cobort zebra bits... both expensive but well worth the money...

 

[ozzman]

i just orderd set of these click me

and they work a treat, they are expensive but worth it in the long run and hopefully shouldnt shatter like the cheapo ones.

 

[piman]

Hello Nellway,

Dormer is a good brand, as Ozzman suggests. If you don't know how to sharpen drills, find someone who can teach you, it will save you a fortune.

Alec

 

[nellway]

"If you don't know how to sharpen drills, find someone who can teach you, it will save you a fortune."

I would love to know that - is there a special tool to use?

Thanks for the advice - who make drills with mechanical slowing mechanisms - The one I have now has a little wheel on the trigger - which has never worked, my little B & D battery drill has a two speed trigger mechanism.

Cheers

Nigel

 

[rtbcomp]

....who make drills with mechanical slowing mechanisms - The one I have now has a little wheel on the trigger - which has never worked, my little B & D battery drill has a two speed trigger mechanism.

Cheers

Nigel

All the big makes should have one in their range. There is usually a small knob on the side near the chuck, where the gears are housed.

The trigger speed controls are electronic.

That little wheel on the trigger may not be a speed control per-se. The actual speed may depend on how far you squeeze the trigger in, the wheel sets a limit on trigger movement so you get the same speed each time.

 

[Dangle_kt]

Hi,

I just bought some, ebaurer (or something like that) metal drill bits from screwfix, they weren't very cheap £30ish I think for a medium set, but the quality is good, and in my pillar drill went straight through 7 or 8 flat.

Though with little to compair it to (except a crappy b&q bit set) I can't say its the best you can get. I am happy with it though.

 

[piman]

Hello Nigel,

I was taught to grind drills freehand on a bench grinder. There are devices that you can buy but will be more fiddly to use.

Alec

 

[nellway]

That sound's dangerous!

I don't have a bench grinder (I must ask Malcolm if he does), but I imagine you need a steady hand and a keen eye - plus strong gauntlets. also down to what size drill bit can you sharpen that way?

Thanks

Nigel

 

[hank_marvinson]

sorry to hijack but can anyone recommend a good stepped drill? up to around 20mm ideally.

fank 'oo

 

[piman]

Hello Nigel,

no, it's not dangerous, and I don't wear gloves (I was taught that machine tools and gloves do not mix.). Drills smaller than about 2mm are a bit hit and miss, but they tend to break anyway.

Alec

 

[nellway]

Have just found this website:

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/sharptools.html#drills

With some really interesting comments.

I know that looking after your tools properly makes for better workmanship - but I have very limited time in the workshop at the weekends to get things done on my car. This technique sounds like something i should try in the evenings if i can find a bench grinder to set up in the garage at home.

Your comment on gloves - I wear latex gloves when using any chemicals, as they tend to make my skin itch, and riggers gloves for metal working to prevent scrapes cuts and metal splinters. Is your concern about getting them snagged in machinery?

 

[English Steve]

Hi Nigel,

As an apprentice I was taught never to wear gloves when using a rotating machine ie grinding wheel, lathe etc as there is the danger of getting snagged and pulled in. With gloves on you can't feel when you are getting close to the moving parts, but without gloves you can feel the 'draught' especially on the back of your hand.
I know there will be many different views on this subject, and when I was being taught the only people who used latex gloves were surgeons so things have moved on, but I just don't feel comfortable wearing gloves around machines like that.
If you do decide to wear riggers or similar, please make sure there are no loose threads etc to get caught - same with your overalls or work clothes in general.

Regards

Steve

 

[bill_gj]

Found this on sharpening - quite good:
http://home.iae.nl/users/summer/16mmngm/Articles_htms/ColinBinnie/DrillSharpening.htm

 

[nellway]

I am never less than amazed at the ingenuity of engineers! Who thought all that up - and then designed it? Fantastic.

 

[MrFluffy]

Hi Nigel,

As an apprentice I was taught never to wear gloves when using a rotating machine ie grinding wheel, lathe etc as there is the danger of getting snagged and pulled in. With gloves on you can't feel when you are getting close to the moving parts, but without gloves you can feel the 'draught' especially on the back of your hand.
I know there will be many different views on this subject, and when I was being taught the only people who used latex gloves were surgeons so things have moved on, but I just don't feel comfortable wearing gloves around machines like that.
If you do decide to wear riggers or similar, please make sure there are no loose threads etc to get caught - same with your overalls or work clothes in general.

Regards

Steve

+1 (strongly) on anything that has a rotating spindle or workpiece.
The reason I was told (and makes sense) is that if you touch a hand or finger to a spindle, yes it gets a tiny bit wounded, *BUT* the gloves snag, and being threaded fibres by nature wind you in.
I have seen some very graphic pictures of people who have been wound in by machinery, and I never ever ever want to be the one mashed to pieces by a machine being cleaned off with a hose.
Gloves/loose fitting clothing/long hair + machines DO NOT MIX!
I take splinters out with a pair of vernier calipers, I hardly get any nowadays since I started using the hoover to take care of milling chips...

Only click this link if your of strong constitution. Its very very graphic and you have been warned. Ignore the comments from the idiots.
http://www.b0g.org/wsnm/articles/This+Is+Twisted
Ill guarentee you think twice about the rigger gloves afterwards...
The concensus on the machinsts forums is he was filing in the chuck, and it caught jerking his arm. Where his loose fitting jumper snagged the workpiece and wound round tightly dragging him in. RIP the unknown machinist, now he can serve as a warning to others.

 

[Hitch]

Drill bits, i would reccomend the Dormers that ozzman linked too, top notch. I find they are as good if not better than a lot of the cobalt bits. Ended up drilling some stainless the otherday with mine, 5mm pilot, then through with a 13mm, in a pistol drill. No trouble, didnt even dull after about 20 holes. Almost impossible to snap aswell

As for the drill, im sticking with my first choice in a lot of tools, and recomend the Hitachi D13VF
Nice and comfortable for one or two handed use. Reasonably compact aswell. Very low gearing give a pretty slow speed, but with lots or torque. No safety cluch either, dont want that on a metal working drill imo.