not having any luck today .... mag drill issue

[owas]

My mag drill arrived today, a used walker magnetics 1100watter for only a 100 quid

Problem is I don't get how I need to unlock the spindle to go through the flange at the bottom, its just stops as it touches it. without the flange on it goes through but I'm sure i'm not suppose to remove that?

Attached pics of the machine


Would help if I could just find a manual for it but that doesnt look like its happening lol.

 

[500e]

Are you sure of make ? could it be a Perles, Bux Walker make the Mag part did not know they made or sold the drill under their name.
The flange usually slides with the motor. not yours but note drill\flange

 

[owas]

Are you sure of make ? could it be a Perles, Bux Walker make the Mag part did not know they made or sold the drill under their name.
The flange usually slides with the motor. not yours but note drill\flange

Brand is swinko,
ah right now theres 2 bolts holding the flange down, uploaded a pic of this

I did email the seller and there reply was 'Undo it near top, it will then go through flange' ...

do I take out those allen bolts?

 

[500e]

From about 2min 50sec
Not totally convinced regarding speed. but note flange moves with carrier

 

[Hitch]

What are you meaning here, when you turn the handle, the cutter won't go down? Or trying to get it up so you can put a chuck in?
On some that bit moves, on others it stays. For broaching, that bit would probably stay.

 

[owas]

What are you meaning here, when you turn the handle, the cutter won't go down? Or trying to get it up so you can put taper shank bits in?
On some that bit moves, on others it stays. For broaching, that bit would probably stay.

The first one, when I turn the handle the spindle doesnt go down.
Without the flange on the bottom it goes up and down fine which is why its confused me

this was the reply from a seller of the brand
' The bearing may have gone in the motor



More probably the gear mechanism that lowers the drill is broken or jammed'
but the actual mechanism seems to be working fine when theres no flange stopping it.

When I say flange, I mean the thing around the arbour in the 2nd pic.

 

[wyn]

It looks like either the bit with the blue arrow or the bit with the red arrow should slide up and down through the plate.

It must be seized up and needs freeing off.

 

[owas]

What steps should I take to free it? I dont wanna just damage the thing completely like I end up usualy doing when force is required lol.

 

[wyn]

I'd undo the end plate to seperate it from the main part of the drill. Also remove the plate that looks to be bolted underneath.

Remove any rust on the shaft either side of the plate....rest the end of the shaft on a block of wood and see if you can knock the the plate off downwards.


The plate should have some sort of bearing/bush under those covers and the shaft should slide up and down on the inner part of the bearing......looks like rust might be stopping it from sliding up and down.

 

[Hitch]

I'd undo the end plate to seperate it from the main part of the drill. Also remove the plate that looks to be bolted underneath.

Remove any rust on the shaft either side of the plate....rest the end of the shaft on a block of wood and see if you can knock the the plate off downwards.


The plate should have some sort of bearing/bush under those covers and the shaft should slide up and down on the inner part of the bearing......looks like rust might be stopping it from sliding up and down.

Agree with that. ,,
I know it's a different machine, but that's a very similar setup to the rotabroach panther...
Download the manual, there's an exploded parts diagram which may help.

http://www.rotabroach.co.uk/certificates/manuals

 

[owas]

Pic after removing plates, im now 99% sure the thicker part on the shaft is not supposed to be stuck on the main shaft.
The bearing is on it, rotates freely around, doesnt move up and down

 

[wyn]

That could well be how it works....in one of the pics it looks like the travel on the inner shaft would match up with the travel on the motor.

If it was the outer shaft going up and down, when the motor is at the bottom of it's travel the outer shaft would be below the bearing.

 

[owas]

Am I right in thinking the thicker part (one with the hole in the last pic) shouldnt be stuck on the part of the shaft with the slot ?
Because the flange at the bottom goes around the bearing and locks into the flat plate that is bolted to the magnet base.
Which then blocks the spindle because the flange houses the bearing inside it stopping the thicker part of the shaft going through (which it looks like they way it should be, but letting the actual chuck part of the shaft go through)

 

[wyn]

Yes, that sounds right.

The outer sleeve with the hole looks like it should have some sort of screw/pin that then matches with the slot.

This will then only let the inner shaft slide up and down in the outer sleeve.

What might have happened is the pin has come out and the inner shaft has spun inside the outer sleeve and got stuck.

 

[owas]

Yes, that sounds right.

The outer sleeve with the hole looks like it should have some sort of screw/pin that then matches with the slot.

This will then only let the inner shaft slide up and down in the outer sleeve.

What might have happened is the pin has come out and the inner shaft has spun inside the outer sleeve and got stuck.

Makes the most sense.
if I dont manage to separate it, seller said he'd have it back for a refund.

 

[owas]

So managed to get it fixed, well the seller did, hes a mechanic so I just sent it back and let him free it up. All works smoothly now.

What would be the min thickness steel the magnetic sticks to? Did just order a 10mm steel plate to build a portable table to just sit the thing on and slide the box section im drilling through, Hoping that was thick enough.

 

[zzr1200]

My mag drill states 6 mm as a minimum thickness.

 

[owas]

My mag drill states 6 mm as a minimum thickness.

Sounds like 10mm should be all good then, thanks!