raleigh mountain bike issues

[BrokenBiker]

time for an update.

I have put a new inner wire on now, but still have the same issue. when I took the old cable off I checked the derailleur moved freely, it does, through all 6 sprockets, the twist grip moves easily and smoothly through all 6 clicks in each direction, the inner moves very smoothly and freely in the outers, and I put a bit of oil down them too just for good measure.

now the problem. with the inner connected to the twist grip, the outers all in place and located in the stays, but not connected to the derailleur the twist grip moves fine. as soon as I connect the cable to the derailleur, take up the slack and tighten the nut down, the twist grip refuses to move at all.

I have the grip set on 6, the chain on the 6th sprocket (smallest) and have tried adjusting the barrel adjusters on both the derailleur and the twist grip and nothing makes any difference, but I can still move the derailleur with my hand easily and freely.

the only thing that I can think of is maybe the outers are the wrong way round, i.e. the one on the bars is longer than the one on the derailleur, should this be the other way round. I cant see it being that though. if I grab the end of the cable with a pair of pliers and where it runs along side the frame and pull the derailleur moves, but for some reason the twist grip wont budge unless I disconnect the cable from the derailleur.

any ideas? this is becoming more of a job than I wanted it to be now and I want to get it done and working

 

[BrokenBiker]

right, disregard the last post



IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

after typing out the last post I went back out and noticed the bit of metal that the barrel connector threads into was bent. nothing a pair of mole grips couldn't sort out. tried the twist grip again and it turned smoothly, so I lifted the back wheel and rested the frame onto a wall, spun the pedals and tried the grip, and it changed gears...so I took it out for a short (and I mean short) ride around th block and it changed up and down through all 6 gears on the back and 3 on the front sprockets.

probably should have checked the brakes worked first though, got up to a fair speed before realising I might need them and remembering I hadn't put them back on...ah well, its all fun and games

so now, I just have to jetwash it all off,as its got fairly crapped up the amount of times I have had bits off it, then lube the chain properly and start riding, hopefully tomorrow if I get the time, got 2 shoots on and got to go visiting at some point, might find half hour though

 

[CRB]

Job well done.

There is always a Nerk Nail somwhere available at all times to scupper your hard work.

 

[BrokenBiker]

I forgot to adjust the seat post too, knees were coming far to high at the top of the pedal stroke and only half bent at the bottom.

I still feel massive on it, as if im riding a kids bike. not entirely sure there is enough adjustment left on the seat post to get it right for my height, infact i'll do that now I think

 

[chunkolini]

Budget grip shifters are a notorious pile of poop.
Shimano everything for me on all the bikes.

 

[BrokenBiker]

these are shimano believe it or not, or at least they have shimano written on them. the only suntour sticker I can find is on the forks, everythinging do do with the gears is shimano.

anyway, just tried adjusting the seat post, it is seized solid. I tried opening the tube up a bit with a ball joint splitter, managed to open it out a bit but the seat post still wont budge, im tempted to try heat, but that will destroy the pain on the frame so anyone got any better ideas first?

 

[Rocketman]

Heat might be OK on a steel frame which I guess it is. Though you might be able to just heat up the seat post and it will expand and 'maybe' when it's cooled it will have loosened a bit.

Stilsons or drill a hole through the seat post then us a round bar through it as a 'T' lever.

Penetration oil overnight night I would do first as this won't ruin anything.

 

[chunkolini]

If really stuck, penetrating oil for 24 hours, then grip the post in a vice and twist the frame a few degrees each way.
did this one it got so hot from friction that we had smoke coming out the the seat tube when we had got it off.

 

[BrokenBiker]

well I have to go to work soon (9-4.30 tonight) so wont be playing anymore. will give it a dose of propane on the actual seat post tomorrow morning and see what that does. do you reckon getting it good and hot then rapid quenching would do it? I cant really get it in the vice as the bike is too big to get it in the shed in the right place lol

 

[Rocketman]

If it's really struck a vice won't do it. Heat might work and cooling it down quick will heighten the chances of success. Just really depends how bad it is.

Still go will the penetration oil as it's the least likely to damage the frame and seat post.

Just remember you can get a seat post cheap but if you knacker the frame you have serious problems.

 

[BrokenBiker]

well I have covered it in wd40 and wrapped a bag around it. if it hasn't freed up by the morning I will put some heat in and quench it. if that fails I may have to figure out a way cut/drill it out and replace it. I have just given it a go with the mole grips but its not budging.

anyway, off to work now, the joys of night shift

 

[Robotstar5]

anyway, off to work now, the joys of night shift

At least I only have to do 4 nights, although last night we had more jobs than the previous 3 put together!.

 

[chunkolini]

Give it a good crack on the top before wrestling in the morning that can occasionally help to free it.
You will not be beaten.

 

[CRB]

WE will not be beaten.

 

[clift_d]

well I have covered it in wd40 and wrapped a bag around it.

Use Plusgas fella, or Loctite Freeze & Release. WD40 isn't worth toffee. And leave it a couple of days if you can.

If you are going to heat the seat post, remember that although the frame might be steel (I assume), the seatpost will probably only be alloy.

As above, if push comes to shove, you can cut the seatpost out - cut it off except for the top inch or so - basically enough to grip it properly, then use a hacksaw blade to cut a groove inside the seatpost almost through to the frame, crush the seat tube at the top to close the cut and pull the remains of the seat post away from the frame, and twist out. Not much fun but do-able.

As always, Sheldon Brown has all the advice you need:
http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

 

[BrokenBiker]

cheers. The hacksaw idea was what i planned if i cant get it out. Be annoying if i have to cut it as that means buying a new post, although i could probably machine one from some of the solid Ali bar i have.

 

[Rocketman]

Here on post 11 shows you the drill 'T' bar method I mentioned earlier with pics and description.

http://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/stuck-seat-post-649486.html

 

[BrokenBiker]

right, I tried penetration oil, nothing heat the tube, nothing, drilled a 13mm hole and put a long bar through, nothing, just bent the bar!!!

so I thought sod this, and have ordered a new post. 25.4mm @ 330mm long should be plenty long enough and if its too long I can cut it. bought steel instead of ali too, they were the same price and id much prefer steel on steel, I think the ali and steel corrosion is the reason I can get this one out.

so when the new one arrives Tuesday I will cut the current one off and out, grease the new one up and fit it

also found out earlier that my next but one neighbour teaches downhill MTB at our local track, and travels the country competing too, even he had a go at getting the post out and failed so we both agreed it needed cutting out.

he also said when I need to set the seat height and so on let him know and he will set it up properly for me, which will be helpful. I had a quick go on one of his bikes and it was glorious. got me looking at my next bike already lol

 

[clift_d]

I had a quick go on one of his bikes and it was glorious. got me looking at my next bike already lol

Careful with that, it can start to get really expensive very quickly.

 

[BrokenBiker]

tell me about it. after we were done fiddling with mine (he set my brakes properly, and made the alterations I did with the derailleurs better) he offered me a go on one of his, so he altered the saddle to fit me, and said just take it around the woods, as its fairly flat and a safe ride where the woods meet the back of our street. it wasn't till I got back I said that is the most comfortable bike I have ever ridden, and his reply was, I should think so, it only cost nearly 3k with a few mods...needless to say I gave it straight back incase I scratched it lol