Christmas Grundfos

[Splatterer]

Well,
December 25th, just done an unpaid call out to the in laws to isolate a flooding central heating pump.
Now that's very small beer compared to the issues some people have, so I'm not seeking sympathy or 'owt like that.
But they're elderly, infirm with medical issues, so they are at present without heating and hot water.

I tried a search on google with the specs for a pump I can bolt back in, before we call out the plumbers.

But I can't find a pump the same. Hence asking if anyone can tell me the spec I'll need to order from the info on the pump.
Info on the pump is
Grundfos
type UPS 25-50- 130
230v 50Hz 2.5uF
P/N 59525437
PC0849RFS
Class F
Google gives me things similar, but not the same. Hence wanting to order one that will fit.
The nuts are 2 inch either side and I was a qualified spark to the 15th.
Happy Christmas by the way,

 

[brightspark]

Well,
December 25th, just done an unpaid call out to the in laws to isolate a flooding central heating pump.
Now that's very small beer compared to the issues some people have, so I'm not seeking sympathy or 'owt like that.
But they're elderly, infirm with medical issues, so they are at present without heating and hot water.

I tried a search on google with the specs for a pump I can bolt back in, before we call out the plumbers.

But I can't find a pump the same. Hence asking if anyone can tell me the spec I'll need to order from the info on the pump.
Info on the pump is
Grundfos
type UPS 25-50- 130
230v 50Hz 2.5uF
P/N 59525437
PC0849RFS
Class F
Google gives me things similar, but not the same. Hence wanting to order one that will fit.
The nuts are 2 inch either side and I was a qualified spark to the 15th.
Happy Christmas by the way,

look in the screwfix catalogue domestic are nearly all much about the same and fittings or isolator valves on them .heres a few they can be had cheaper though . wilo pumps are ok and are 3 speed .grundfoss seem overpriced . http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=pumps central heating

 

[ford34/2]

Whats the boiler?? I`m guessing the pump is in the boiler or is it just inbetween pipework??
Guide:
http://cbs.grundfos.com/export/site...s/Final_Pump_Replacement_Guide_A5_0610_lr.pdf

Stan

 

[500e]

http://www.floorheating-direct.co.uk/products/38-1-a-label circulation pumps/39-1-grundfos alpha2 l pumps
second paragraph gives replacement No's

 

[Mr Toasty]

Hi splatterer, plumber by trade here the pump your after 25-50- 130is a generic rating for a pump there all the pretty much the same the only reason there not giving you an exact match is because they are now all a or a+ rated for energy if you find one the same spec, (by which I mean 25-50- 130) then your good, all the pumps have the same 2inch connectors on either side the only thing you have to watch is the rotation of the head of the pump, but it will explain it all in the instructions if you fit it yourself, average cost aswell about £65 pounds upwards for a wilo up to what ever you want to spend really, grundfos are slightly more expensive but then you get what you pay for

 

[frits]

Merry Christmas and a Happy New year

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I got called out by wife friend on Xmax eve. She had a big leak from the bottom of a rad. Easy to just turn off both valves and plumber is coming to change rad in New Year. What was annoying is she said it had been leaking for ages but rather than getting it sorted she waited until it was too big for the bowl put underneath to cope !

Paul H

 

[Splatterer]

Thank you all for the most excellent replies.
Last query today.
ALPHA2 L 15/25-60 130 (in line pump)Replaces UPS 15-50, UPS 15-60, UPS 25-50 en UPS 25-60

Is the / between 15 and 25 significant? As in 15 -60 is different to 25 -60?
BTW, You should all raise a festive glass to yourselves and take a pat on the back for being such jolly and helpful good fellows
A closer examination found that the upper stop valve on the pump was loose, as in finger tight. This was spraying water over the pump and it's electrics.
The boiler and pump are in separate rooms as it's an old fashioned open system with a cylinder.

Thus far today, I've added some jointing compound and tightened the valve back up. No leaks.
The pump runs but will trip the Circuit breaker after about 10 secs on it's lowest setting. It trips straight away on levels 2 and 3.
It's the pump itself doing this, as dis connecting the modules (it's a plug in) to the pump housing itself doesn't trip out.
You can see the windings once the module is out, hence thinking it's the pump.
I'm assuming it won't be the capacitor as the pump did run for about 10 minutes before beginning to trip out.

The pump is currently drying out in the hope it will function again, or at least until the shops re-open.

Also, the heating had been barely warming the house as the boiler had been turned down to 1 out of 6 at the last service in October...

Cheers,
Ade

 

[striker]

Hmm . I came home off nights christmas morning to no heating or hot water...
had a look at baxi 105e boiler and fan flue fault light flashing....a few tests later concluded pcb was knackered. cant get one until 27th cos everywhere is shut..
so for last 2 days the wood burners been flat out and we are boiling kettles for washing and washing up...
did consider a cold shower but I'm a pussy!
£135 for a pcb hopefully I'll get one tomorrow. Hope it fixes it!

not the best timing but it happens I suppose.

 

[brightspark]

Hmm . I came home off nights christmas morning to no heating or hot water...
had a look at baxi 105e boiler and fan flue fault light flashing....a few tests later concluded pcb was knackered. cant get one until 27th cos everywhere is shut..
so for last 2 days the wood burners been flat out and we are boiling kettles for washing and washing up...
did consider a cold shower but I'm a pussy!
£135 for a pcb hopefully I'll get one tomorrow. Hope it fixes it!

not the best timing but it happens I suppose.

just been wiring some offices and storage containers up for an outfit that do insulation and boilers .christ there cutting up loads of boilers all were working before removal and scrapping loads of good pumps . its shamefull all them parts just getting weighed in

 

[striker]

Yeah amazing how wastefull some companies are... I remember whilst working at ici wilton they emptied one of the stores into a skip because certain things didnt have part numbers, taps,dies calipers micrometers the lot.. it was criminal. I was picking them out as fast as they were going in...

 

[bill_gj]

On my last boiler, a relay packed up just outside of the guarantee period.
I pulled out the PCB, after more dismantling than should have been necessary, and found the relay was soldered in.
I ended up buying another PCB. What Pee'd me off was that I had access to various relays of the same size and, had the relay been plugged into a socket on the PCB, I could have matched one up reasonably easily for a cost between nothing and a few quid.
PCB cost me about £80 at the time.

 

[striker]

I know Bill, its so frustrating....I am £135 lighter this morning but at least I have a warm house and hot water on tap.

Its very annoying knowing that its probably a failed relay or similar with a cost of pence, but not knowing whats what you must change the whole board.

I had a problem with my drayton wireless thermostat/programmer. It would not switch the boiler when needed.

A little bit of research led me to an ebay link for a capacitor. £3.31. Soldered it in place of old one on the receivers pcb and it was fixed..

saved £90 on a new one..

shame I couldnt find similar fix for my boiler.

 

[bill_gj]

Well done!

What annoys me most about a lot of modern kit, e.g. electronically controlled condensing boilers, is the design and quality of the controls and control system may not be subject to the same official scrutiny as the design and quality of the water and gas-side components.

That way, the manufacturers can source control boards from the lowest-cost suppliers (China again?) and outsource (popular word with manufacturers these days) the software as well. That way you can get water and gas components that may last 20 years and crappy electronics and software that may start giving you aggro from day one.

 

[brightspark]

ive got a baxi backboiler y plan system . only ever fitted one gas valve one thermocouple a 9 quid diverter valve motor and a pump in 30 years

 

[Splatterer]

New pump fitted and working. De-sludger in the system, which brought the dead radiators back to life as well.
Warm codgers!
And now back to just normal downhill condition managing.
So thanks again for the help on the original post.

 

[MCKDAVID]

a pet hate of mine...

a lot of this boils down to manufacturers, they've decided you need this extra complication / option / toys / flashing lights / fancy functions etc so they can sell you it, and more importantly sell you it again. The reality, is why do you need a PCB to start and stop burner and open close a valve etc?.. The answer is you don't!

It's not just boilers, just about everything now has some electronics in it.. when simple controls worked for decades and were easy to fix. Unfortunately for us, the consumers, that doesn't sell more machines etc.. We've gone too far down the road of needless progress when a simple relay and contactor will do fine for basic functions. As such we now get things which are little more than self destruct mechanisms built in, breaks down, = a 1£ relay an potetially 5 years more life or a 200£ PCB and a scrapped machine and a new one sold... simple economics for the factories.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for progress, but it needs to reach a "sensible" level then leave it at that, if it works don't fix it etc. A PCB when it's necessary and can add efficiency or make it safer, that's fine, however when it's just to give a basic machine bells and whistles to sell it, or more likely to make it irrepairable later so they have to sell you another one is taking the P..

 

[bill_gj]

Agreed.
Boiler electronics should be bullet proof. You get far fewer hardware failures in engine control units.

 

[Splatterer]

....

/a lot of this boils down to manufacturers, they've decided you need this extra complication / option / toys / flashing lights / fancy functions etc so they can sell you it, and more importantly sell you it again. The reality, is why do you need a PCB to start and stop burner and open close a valve etc?.. The answer is you don't!

It's to connect it to the internet.
Once everything gets connected to the internet the machines can watch you and control you.
Take this PC, for example. It's decided to keep me shut in the warm instead of outdoors in the cold wind and rain where I ought to be doing something manly and gruff outside.

The machines are watching and waiting.....

Must get off the sofa.... Must go outside.... Yawn... ZZZzzzz

 

[KemppiFrog]

....

It's to connect it to the internet.
Once everything gets connected to the internet the machines can watch you and control you.
Take this PC, for example. It's decided to keep me shut in the warm instead of outdoors in the cold wind and rain where I ought to be doing something manly and gruff outside.

The machines are watching and waiting.....

Must get off the sofa.... Must go outside.... Yawn... ZZZzzzz

Very good, esp as we are watching in the warm...

Local expat friend moaning about how his boiler man wants to replace the whole lot as he say that he no longer wants to service the old cr*p. Price.. several €K.
On the web, found a reliable iron boiler and burner combo for under 1K. So asked him what was the real problem? Seems the guy just wants to sell a nice expensive system to replace the simple non-electronic functioning one he has. Worst case is he might need a new burner, so around €400. The controls are simple old school stuff and work fine. He asked about the efficiency, well yes, but how long will it take to save the fuel if he spends €6k on a new one? Notb to mention the possible problems with a delicate condensing system.

Oh, as for the internet connection where they are... Several of the locals think that Napoleon might have won at Waterloo.