Welding electrodes ?

[super noob]

Having some trouble getting enough current to run the stick welder at 110A right now as I'm not able to install the big 80A circuit for the TIG for a bit so left with a 32A and a 16A set up


It seems to trip the breaker (got a freezer on the same circuit so always on) so thinking if I was to weld on the 32A circuit in order to reduce current draw I could use some 2.5's instead of the 3.2 6013's but would they be suitable for 1/4" mild steel sheet ?

My thinking is instead of trying to put out 110 to 120A to weld with the 6013's I could draw around half to two thirds that with 2.5s ?

Anyone know if they'd be just as good for the 1/4" steel I weld ?


I'm using an old oil cooled welder so no idea what its drawing but I found it was made in Sheffield by something like welding electrodes sheffield (cant remember now)

 

[Jim_gsxr1000]

What type of welder, u can run 110A OC from a 13A plug on most machines!

 

[super noob]

Its an Astonarc 180A ancient oil cooled thing, looks just like an Oxford

Guy that sold it me said it'd run fine on a 13A plug for most things but when you get to high end it blows fuses

 

[Jim_gsxr1000]

so should run from a 16 no problem ?

 

[super noob]

He supplied it to me with a 32A plug so I presume it may need that ?

It's designed to run on 240,400 and 415V so for 90A probably 16A would be fine but for the full 180 it'll need the 32

 

[Paul99]

I suspect that your breaker is a normal domestic cat B rather than a cat C or D (motor rated) and is tripping out due to a sudden high load when you start the arc at 110a.

13amp should be fine for 110amp on the oil cooled welder - provided the breaker is up to it - easy job to switch out the current one for a Cat D breaker.

 

[Jim_gsxr1000]

yeh running at 110 there should be no need for 32A all of my machines will run on a 16A plug, I only need the 32 for my big mig above about 200A

 

[super noob]

I suspect that your breaker is a normal domestic cat B rather than a cat C or D (motor rated) and is tripping out due to a sudden high load when you start the arc at 110a.

13amp should be fine for 110amp on the oil cooled welder - provided the breaker is up to it - easy job to switch out the current one for a Cat D breaker.

Just been and looked at the breaker its rated up to 400V and has BS3871 written on all the switches if that helps with anything ?

Its in a guesthouse too

 

[super noob]

yeh running at 110 there should be no need for 32A all of my machines will run on a 16A plug, I only need the 32 for my big mig above about 200A

My 190A mig used to run on the same circuit as this so not sure tbh

 

[Paul99]

Just been and looked at the breaker its rated up to 400V and has BS3871 written on all the switches if that helps with anything ?

Its in a guesthouse too

There should be a letter before the amperage rating eg B20.

 

[super noob]

In that case yes its a B

 

[Paul99]

In that case yes its a B

Then likely this is your problem - B just isn't designed for high start up current. I used to blow a B rated breaker often trying to use 3.25mm rods on my old buzzbox before I realised why - I'm guessing the oil cooled welder would draw even more current on start up. Have a read of this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuit_breakers - particularly the bit about Instantaneous tripping current - a C or D rated breaker should solve the problems your having - a 5 minute job to replace.

 

[super noob]

Then likely this is your problem - B just isn't designed for high start up current. I used to blow a B rated breaker often trying to use 3.25mm rods on my old buzzbox before I realised why - I'm guessing the oil cooled welder would draw even more current on start up. Have a read of this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circuit_breakers - particularly the bit about Instantaneous tripping current - a C or D rated breaker should solve the problems your having - a 5 minute job to replace.

It'll let me run a bead for about 2 inches with the rod before dying ?

Does that sound about right ? And I will look into getting it replaced then not allowed to do it myself as its a business so will no doubt cost a bit but hey ho

 

[Paul99]

It'll let me run a bead for about 2 inches with the rod before dying ?

Does that sound about right ? And I will look into getting it replaced then not allowed to do it myself as its a business so will no doubt cost a bit but hey ho

It was all a bit random timing wise with me - it depends on all sorts of things which affect resistance / current draw - like temperature, arc length and probably the composition of the rod itself - As things warm up resistance increases and more current is drawn to maintain the arc - it's a bit of a vicious cycle until you reach the limit of the breaker and off it'll go. A friendly sparky shouldn't be too expensive it really is a simple job for them - the part will likely be a fair bit more than the labour.

 

[super noob]

It was all a bit random timing wise with me - it depends on all sorts of things which affect resistance / current draw - like temperature, arc length and probably the composition of the rod itself - As things warm up resistance increases and more current is drawn to maintain the arc - it's a bit of a vicious cycle until you reach the limit of the breaker and off it'll go. A friendly sparky shouldn't be too expensive it really is a simple job for them - the part will likely be a fair bit more than the labour.

Cheers Paul, will look into getting it replaced then

Pretty sure there'll be a few going cheap at the electricians workshop anyway

Getting an electrician mate to wire in my TIG later in the year but for now will pay for this one as its not quite as big a job

Think I'll also get a 32A plug installed as it blows the 13A fuses rapidly otherwise! Went through a box of ten today

 

[Paul99]

Cheers Paul, will look into getting it replaced then

Pretty sure there'll be a few going cheap at the electricians workshop anyway

Getting an electrician mate to wire in my TIG later in the year but for now will pay for this one as its not quite as big a job

Think I'll also get a 32A plug installed as it blows the 13A fuses rapidly otherwise! Went through a box of ten today

10 yeh think it's time to think about a 32 amp supply - but that might be quite so easy /cheap depending on your current setup.

 

[super noob]

10 yeh think it's time to think about a 32 amp supply - but that might be quite so easy /cheap depending on your current setup.

The breaker to the kitchen where the current supply I'm using is is 65A with two 32A circuits, one 16 and two 6's but obviously it doesn't all get used at the same time


Hopefully shouldn't be too expensive to wire in!

 

[ben8vgte]

My 140 amp oxford, needs 22A at full power off the top of my head.. I have mine on a 32 A supply..

 

[super noob]

So this one will probably need the 32A then to run at the full 180


Will get one installed I think Breaker is at 65A so plenty to play with