- Thread starter s410man
- Start date
no hiss when it cuts out
could you tell me what to look for on ebay as im not really sure
could i just type in pressure switch or will the bring up non unloading ones
thanks
brightspark
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so if i fitted that would i then do away with the pressure switch and the big box with the start and stop buttons on it as that has one on it
thanks
brightspark
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fit the new pressure switch in place of the old one and conect the small pipe between the compressor outlet pipe and tank one way valve to the tank .tee it in u can still use the original starter as it has the overloads in it for the motor .wire a live and neutral feed from its output terminals to the pressure switch input and wire a feed out to the motor . if your not bothered about having overload trips fitted wire a feed direct to the pressure switch and out to the motor and use the knob on top to turn it on and off
the artfull-codger
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Hi s410man, humble apoplgies for not replying about the pressure switch,not been around for a while but brightspark's answered your question admirably, that's the same one as I fitted to my compressor,incidently I left the old contactor in as it was easier to do [& it'll make life easier on the pressure switch contacts not that it matters that much as it's well within it's capacity] works a treat motor starts gr8 no struggling.
slan go fol
brightspark
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pressure switch
just sent off for one for one of my comps id didnt need pressure relief on the old motor as it would pull it over no bother
new motors struggle so il have to change it
just sent off for one for one of my comps id didnt need pressure relief on the old motor as it would pull it over no bother
new motors struggle so il have to change it
brightspark
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i think as eil put in his post have u a non return valve on it from pump pipe to tank id doesnt look like u have. u will need one . are u handy making things to alter it. a bit of pipework and a few fittings ect
brightspark
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comp pressure switch
the new switch arived of ebay:the fittings were diffrent but 20 mins on the lathe and a bit of re drilling and tapping and a few bits of pipe and bits lying round soon got it up and running . the old motor would pull the comp over under presure no bother but new motors wont .switch fitted and set up to cut out at 120psi and cut back in at 90 and it starts fine , the switch was conected to a contactor so was easy to leave as was but the switch would take the full load of the motor if it was wired direct
the new switch arived of ebay:the fittings were diffrent but 20 mins on the lathe and a bit of re drilling and tapping and a few bits of pipe and bits lying round soon got it up and running . the old motor would pull the comp over under presure no bother but new motors wont .switch fitted and set up to cut out at 120psi and cut back in at 90 and it starts fine , the switch was conected to a contactor so was easy to leave as was but the switch would take the full load of the motor if it was wired direct
had a bit of luck when a mate stopped by and offered to have a look at it and has got it going
cuts out at 170 and back in at 120
while waiting for it to pump up he said it was a bit slow so when we had a look around it we noticed that when the pump was changed the pulley wasn't and the new pump says 2500 rpm on plate
the motor is only 1450 and has a slightly smaller pulley so although it is slow to pump up the motor isn't under any strain on start up so ill think ill leave it without an unloader unless i have to change to a new motor
thanks for all the help
cuts out at 170 and back in at 120
while waiting for it to pump up he said it was a bit slow so when we had a look around it we noticed that when the pump was changed the pulley wasn't and the new pump says 2500 rpm on plate
the motor is only 1450 and has a slightly smaller pulley so although it is slow to pump up the motor isn't under any strain on start up so ill think ill leave it without an unloader unless i have to change to a new motor
thanks for all the help
