- Thread starter bigtip
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Paint
dont know about Travis range of paints but I used Fred Williamsons own brand-GREY COLOUR, useless as soon as its wet it blisters and then peels off, now I need to strip the whole floor and restart. not happy. seriously thinking ceramic style tiles.
Stan
dont know about Travis range of paints but I used Fred Williamsons own brand-GREY COLOUR, useless as soon as its wet it blisters and then peels off, now I need to strip the whole floor and restart. not happy. seriously thinking ceramic style tiles.
Stan
any idea what yours said on the tin, ingredients or anything? my tins have got some warning stuff about what's in there but not what type of floor paint. i don't think it's epoxy as that's expensive and someone gave me these two tins for nothing. if it was urethane i'd be happy to give it a go as that's what i would have bought anyway but if it's complete ***** like yours sounds than i don't even want to try it.
tiles doesn't seem right to me unless it's a showroom but then you need some carpet as well
tiles doesn't seem right to me unless it's a showroom but then you need some carpet as well
ColourweldUK
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Generally speaking in a vegicle environment you should use a 2k Epoxy as 1k paints will soon start coming up. The 2K products do cost more to buy but in the long run they are the cheaper option as you are not having to repaint the floor all of the time.
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
i am sure you are right but i don't want to spend a load on the final finish which will get chipped and scraped anyway. it's not going to be heavy traffic like an mot centre or something, my ramp will be a couple of foot from the door and i don't expect it to last forever but i am worried it will turn into a mess for no reason like ford34/2.
if i was to use this travis stuff, what would you recommend as prep?
if i was to use this travis stuff, what would you recommend as prep?
Lawnmowerboy
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pressure wash and a scrub?
brightspark
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if its your usual floor paint dont coat it 1st with pva as it makes a seal then when u paint over it the paint chips off leaving marks . best thin the 1st coat of paint and it soaks in, then topcoat un thinned with a roller or a sweeping brush
one more point: it also says on the tin to wait several months with new concrete. i don't want to wait that long, maybe 4 weeks is the max i can wait, unless someone's going to tell me from their personal experience that it's definitely a mistake not to wait that long.
brightspark
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what thickness is the concrete and is there a good airflow [ ventilated ]the industry standard is about 1 month per inch depth of concrete to be an aceptable moisture level
it's 4 and a bit inches on top of polystyrene.
lots of ventilation, big barn doors (not fitted), plus two big windows high up, again not fitted.
would you know whether the epoxy or polyurethane stay down ok on concrete that's still a bit green? as i said this paint was free and i'd rather use it if i can but if it is going to be a f**k up, i suppose i'll have to spend out on the good stuff.
lots of ventilation, big barn doors (not fitted), plus two big windows high up, again not fitted.
would you know whether the epoxy or polyurethane stay down ok on concrete that's still a bit green? as i said this paint was free and i'd rather use it if i can but if it is going to be a f**k up, i suppose i'll have to spend out on the good stuff.
brightspark
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both paints need a dry surface. one method to test how dry is place a piece of polythene over the concrete for a few days then lift it up . if theres any moisture there its still damp
thats only on the surface mind not right throughi left a reel of cable on the floor which came wrapped in plastic and there was a damp circle where it had been. i will leave it a bit longer before painting.
going back to lawnmowerboy's post; if i pressure wash it, won't it need a while to dry out properly again? it's new concrete and has had no vehicles or oily stuff on it so does it need pressure washing in this case?
going back to lawnmowerboy's post; if i pressure wash it, won't it need a while to dry out properly again? it's new concrete and has had no vehicles or oily stuff on it so does it need pressure washing in this case?
brightspark
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nupe just leave to dry
that's what i was hoping you'd say i'll give it another week or two and then a good sweep up and vac then i'll take me chances. is there anything wrong with painting it in two halves? i keep moving stuff in there and then thinking i've only got to move it all out again to paint the floor but i can easily shift everything over for a couple of days if the two-section strategy will work alright.
i'll give it another week or two and then a good sweep up and vac then i'll take me chances. is there anything wrong with painting it in two halves? i keep moving stuff in there and then thinking i've only got to move it all out again to paint the floor but i can easily shift everything over for a couple of days if the two-section strategy will work alright.
brightspark
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best way if half your gears in itthat's what i was hoping you'd say
Gritineye
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Used Coo-Var grey floor paint on mine, seems to be a very similar product, same result waste of time, all gone now apart from a few inches out from the walls!
Not worth the bother, it peels in fear at the sight of a trolley jack..
brightspark
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more than likely the 1st coat wasnt thinned enough and didnt adhere cummins diesel painted there floor with it and used rolatrucks and forklifts over it and it weared wellUsed Coo-Var grey floor paint on mine, seems to be a very similar product, same result waste of time, all gone now apart from a few inches out from the walls!
Not worth the bother, it peels in fear at the sight of a trolley jack..
but you are giving me cause for concern with your horror stories 
