Progress 2G Drill

[MattF]

I was thinking about fixing a thick washer to the top of the gear, with cutouts just slightly larger than the driving dogs. I would prefer a cold fix to avoid destroying any heat treatment done to the gear.

That sounds a good idea. Would improve the existing assembly no end. Wonder if they designed it that way to make for easier engagement/disengagement whilst running?

 

[GrahamGKD]

Can you re-machine or re-grind the business end of the damaged dogs and then put some interference fit pegs through the back side of the gap to reduce the backlash? Before thinking of that I kept coming around to interference fit pegs in front of the damage to take the drive – these could then be made of silver steel (only works if the hub is drillable)? The ultimate fix might be to re-make the hub of the gear (with dogs) and then interference fit the gear itself on to it (again, only works if the middle part of the gear is machinable). That way the replacement hub could be hardened silver steel. You could put a couple of grub screws down the interference fit join (al a Keys) to avoid any risk of it moving. I think I’d want to use the drill for a bit and make sure everything else was fine before going to that much bother though!

 

[rtbcomp]

That sounds a good idea. Would improve the existing assembly no end. Wonder if they designed it that way to make for easier engagement/disengagement whilst running?

That's what I thought, the smaller the dogs and the bigger the space between them the better the chance of the clutch engaging, although the instruction plate specifically says the drill must be stopped when changing gear.

If the clutch doesn't engage you have to twist the chuck (like Graham mentioned), so smaller dogs means you're going to have to twist it less.

 

[rtbcomp]

Can you re-machine or re-grind the business end of the damaged dogs and then put some interference fit pegs through the back side of the gap to reduce the backlash? Before thinking of that I kept coming around to interference fit pegs in front of the damage to take the drive – these could then be made of silver steel (only works if the hub is drillable)? The ultimate fix might be to re-make the hub of the gear (with dogs) and then interference fit the gear itself on to it (again, only works if the middle part of the gear is machinable). That way the replacement hub could be hardened silver steel. You could put a couple of grub screws down the interference fit join (al a Keys) to avoid any risk of it moving. I think I’d want to use the drill for a bit and make sure everything else was fine before going to that much bother though!

I'd thought of that too, but you'd only reduce the backlash by the thickness of the pegs, if you put them too far in front the driving dog could get between the pegs and the original driven dog, unless you filled that area with magic metal or something.

Silver steel would be ideal because you could harden and temper it. Pity I fell out with a grinding firm that produces precision ground silver steel!

I won't be doing anything until I get it running and then get my little Union bench drill going, I'll need that to drill any holes in the clutch on this one!

 

[ronan]

I have one of these drills too, mine won't stay in high gear because the centre of the large gear on the bottom of the main shaft has worn , i want to remove it and build up the worn area with a hardfacing rod , do any of you know how to remove the shafts , both chuck shaft and lay shaft ?

 

[rtbcomp]

Not sure about the chuck shaft. I read somewhere that you can disconnect the spindle return spring and wind the spindle right out with the star-wheel, although I haven't tried that.

As for the layshaft if you have a look at the last picture I posted there is a grubscrew in the casting. I reckon this locates the bottom of the layshaft. Next, if you look at the top of the drill you will see the driven pulley overlaps the layshaft, this means the pulley has to come off.

There are 2 grubscrews which appear to locate the pulley, I tried taking these out but the pulley wouldn't shift, maybe heat is required to warm the pulley slightly?

Once the pulley is off you may be able to lift the layshaft out complete with bearings. There is a hole in the end of it, but I think this is just a centre. If it was drilled and tapped you could extract it with a bolt, maybe another useful mod.

One way of dislodging shafts from a casting is to hold the casting in one hand (with the exit hole for the shaft uppermost) and hit it with a soft hammer with the other. This causes the shaft to rise as if by magic. Personally I don't fancy holding this particular casting in one hand while I hit it!

Lots of words and not much help I'm afraid!

 

[GrahamGKD]

Not sure about the chuck shaft. I read somewhere that you can disconnect the spindle return spring and wind the spindle right out with the star-wheel, although I haven't tried that.

Yes, I'm pretty sure that works - can't remember much else I'm afraid, but I got mine to bits years ago without any instructions so it can't be that hard!

 

[GrahamGKD]

Silver steel would be ideal because you could harden and temper it. Pity I fell out with a grinding firm that produces precision ground silver steel!

Yes, that is what I was thinking, I've got some odd bits of silver steel bar stock which would make pegs (nothing big enough to make a new hub I'm afraid), I think it is half inch and 5 sixteenths - I would be happy to send you a bit if you decide to go that route.

Good Luck,

 

[rtbcomp]

Thanks Graham, I'll bear that in mind. A new hub would be a bit complicated, it has the groove for the selector fork and a keyway in it.

One cunning plan using my washer idea would be to incorporate compression springs under the washer so the dog engaged softly, I'll try to knock up some sketches to explain what I mean.

 

[GrahamGKD]

I have one of these drills too, mine won't stay in high gear because the centre of the large gear on the bottom of the main shaft has worn , i want to remove it and build up the worn area with a hardfacing rod , do any of you know how to remove the shafts , both chuck shaft and lay shaft ?

When you say the centre is worn do you mean the bore through it - if so I would have thought sleeving it with an interference fit sleeve or bush would be better and lower risk? Sorry, I can't picture the part you mean.

 

[rtbcomp]

Removing the Quill

1) Remove the return spring.
1a) Slacken off the grub screw securing the spring adjuster
1b) Slacken the adjuster right off
1c) Pull the adjuster complete with spring inside it away from the head

2) Remove the knurled nut from the depth-stop screw

4) Lower the quill with the star wheel until it disengages

5) Pull the quill assembly away from the head by hand.

I did this on the bench with the head resting on its side, if you do it with the head fastened to the column swing the table away to allow room for the quill to drop and be prepared to catch the quill if it falls out under its own weight.

 

[rtbcomp]

Removing the Quill Cross-Shaft

1) Remove the quill as above.

2) Drift out the roll-pin from the hub of the star wheel.

3) Make sure the grub screw in step 1 doesn't obstruct the pinion on the cross-shaft.

4) Light drift or push the cross-shaft from the star wheel end.

 

[ronan]

When you say the centre is worn do you mean the bore through it - if so I would have thought sleeving it with an interference fit sleeve or bush would be better and lower risk? Sorry, I can't picture the part you mean.

No graham not the fit on the shaft , its the driving dogs recessed into the large (the largest in the gearbox) gearwheel, the one that lifts when you operate the high/low gear lever. Anyway they have become rounded and the drill jumps from high gear to low when the machine is under load, a receipe for broken drill bits.
I am going to remove this wheel and build the worn dogs with a hardfacing rod and grind to shape as i presume new parts are unavailable. I think this problem is caused from people changing from high to load or visa versa while the motor is running.

 

[MattF]

One cunning plan using my washer idea would be to incorporate compression springs under the washer so the dog engaged softly, I'll try to knock up some sketches to explain what I mean.

Sort of in that the washer would be retained, (and also have its height set), by through bolts on the washer and gear, and then have springs between the washer and gear so that it's full height normally but can compress downwards under pressure?

The other possible option would be a full height, solid metal curved section of the correct height affixed to the gear, with a sloping face to let the tooth down gradually into position.

 

[rtbcomp]

No graham not the fit on the shaft , its the driving dogs recessed into the large (the largest in the gearbox) gearwheel, the one that lifts when you operate the high/low gear lever. Anyway they have become rounded and the drill jumps from high gear to low when the machine is under load, a receipe for broken drill bits.
I am going to remove this wheel and build the worn dogs with a hardfacing rod and grind to shape as i presume new parts are unavailable. I think this problem is caused from people changing from high to load or visa versa while the motor is running.

Mines the same - let us know how you remove the wheel! What I have just found is what I thought was the end of the layshaft appears to be a bearing retainer. I've cleaned all the crud away and there is a small grubscrew on the circumference of the disk and the hole in the middle is another grubscrew (5/16 Whit) with a pointed end, possibly thrust adjustment for the layshaft.

I reckon if you screw a longer bolt into that hole it would lift the end cap out. You may have to remove the pulley first, that looks like being another bag of worms!

Another reason the dogs may have worn is that the detent on the gear lever is worn, not allowing the dogs to be fully engaged.

 

[rtbcomp]

Sort of in that the washer would be retained, (and also have its height set), by through bolts on the washer and gear,

I was thinking countersunk rivets due to lack of clearance. I'm going off this idea a bit because the vertical movement would be reduced, necessitating a new detent plate making.

and then have springs between the washer and gear so that it's full height normally but can compress downwards under pressure?

I was thinking horizontal springs to cushion the blow as the dogs engaged, but there would be a risk that the driving dog would settle on top of the spring instead of in front of it.

The other possible option would be a full height, solid metal curved section of the correct height affixed to the gear, with a sloping face to let the tooth down gradually into position.

The problem there would be that you have to leave room for the dog to engage in reverse.

 

[GrahamGKD]

I am going to remove this wheel and build the worn dogs with a hardfacing rod and grind to shape as i presume new parts are unavailable. I think this problem is caused from people changing from high to load or visa versa while the motor is running.

You could try Gate Machinery (see higher up in the post for the details) for spares? There are some cogs on ebay for Progress drills but not the ones everyone is interested in!

Yes, changing gear without stopping the machine, I wonder if that is how the damage was caused to RTBs machine? Some people need to be taught to respect decent kit!

Good Luck with the repair.

 

[MattF]

The problem there would be that you have to leave room for the dog to engage in reverse.

Unless, you could do a bit of work on both those wheels/gears and turn it into a proper dog clutch. Direction of rotation then becomes irrelevant, and it would be a damned sight more robust than the existing setup. From what bit I can see of that mechanism in the photo, it doesn't look going that route would cause problems with the rest of the mechanism?

 

[MattF]

If you went with a design like this, for example:

you're not going to suffer any type of slippage or dog tooth damage like that existing setup has. You'd have to actively try to abuse it to damage that type of setup.

 

[rtbcomp]

That's exactly how I would have designed it in the first place.

I'm having trouble with the pulley, I've managed to get the plate off the top so I can get a puller on it, but it's not moving, even with heating the pulley. I daren't get too enthusiastic with it being an ally pulley.