Discs onto s3 landy

[Cobbler]

I know there are loads of Landy fans (or is it repairers) out there, does anyone know the best way to convert an s3 to disc brakes? I know disco axles have been used, but this require major surgery to spring mounts etc. Also the prop angles are wrong I understand. I know there is a kit available from Holland, but it is best part of a grand.

Any thoughts anyone? I know my sons tried the LR forums, but the ways shown on there seem to be over complicated. Life would be simpler if he took up flower arranging, but never mind

Happy days
Cobbler

 

[Ragnarok]

hey, yeah there are a few kits out there, all quite expensive though, the one from holland is the one that use defender/disco callipers and discs isn't it? that looks like a good set up!

that said, if the standard drums are well looked after and set up they stop the landy very well in my opinion! they can lock the wheels no problem at 30-40mph on dry tarmac and mines a 109 station wagon, running 235/85/r16s.

i think rocky mountain also do a disc brake set, and also this place http://www.automotivecomp.com/prices.html theirs is only £609, but thats about all i know about their set.

personally i'd go with a full rebuild of the drums and keep them adjusted well

good luck with it!

 

[Cobbler]

Hi Ragnarok,
Thanks for the info, it's just an idea at present. Don't the 109's have bigger drums than the 88's. Might be worth looking round for for a set if we choose to do anything. I knew someone on here would know. I bet if you asked about building an intergalactic space ship on here, someone would know how to do it

Regards
Cobbler

 

[Ragnarok]

haha yes they're 11" drums on the 109" the late 88" had them too, that would get you a bit of extra power probably if yours doesn't have the 11" already, does yours have servo assist on the brakes? that'd be the biggest improvement!

i did at one point have a lot of trouble with my brakes, so i changed all the wheel cylinders and master cylinder (all genuine/oem parts bad experiences with britpart hydraulics) the mintex shoes seem good too

i personally would stick with the drums unless you go for a v8 or tdi with a 5speed

 

[Cobbler]

Hi Ragnarok,
Yes a servo is fitted, the brakes are the smaller ones, LR is an '89. The brakes were overhauled using a Britpart pack of linings cylinders & springs etc. We try to get oe kit now if not to much dearer, for 'personal Reasons' I think you will understand!

My sons LR was a 21/4 petrol, but after ingesting water on an off road event, now sports a 21/2 defender petrol in it. Next real job is to fit a Fairly hooverdrive unit to make travelling more pleasant. Have unit ready but not the transfer drive coupling seller did not send it. I know there available though.

I rebuild and ran a couple of trials cars many years ago, so perhaps getting dirty wet & muddy is in the blood, or perhaps we are just kids at heart!

 

[Ragnarok]

ahh yeah i had 2 britpart wheel cylinders as a temporary repair at one point they lasted less than a year, then leaked all the fluid out, so rebuilt with oem and it's going strong 4 years latter

for the confidence that when you press the brakes they will work oem is worth it

1989? i thought they'd stopped making series in 1985 mines a 1979

i had thought about fitting a defender 2.5 petrol, but i'm currently thinking about 200tdi when i have the time and money

also some interesting tuning parts around to get a load of extra power, not to mention supercharger option! heh

 

[Cobbler]

Sorry, typing error, should have read 79

Cobbler

 

[Ragnarok]

nice hey by the way i ment to say that the overdrive is a great bit of kit, but also the ashcroft high ratio transfer gears look like a better option, i have a fairy overdrive, but i think the ashcroft high ratio would be nicer and tougher, and it's cheaper too

 

[metalspanner]

I know there are loads of Landy fans (or is it repairers) out there, does anyone know the best way to convert an s3 to disc brakes? I know disco axles have been used, but this require major surgery to spring mounts etc. Also the prop angles are wrong I understand. I know there is a kit available from Holland, but it is best part of a grand.

Any thoughts anyone? I know my sons tried the LR forums, but the ways shown on there seem to be over complicated. Life would be simpler if he took up flower arranging, but never mind

Happy days
Cobbler

The brake set up on the series is good if set up and maintained correctly, the best course of action would be to get a servo unit from an early 90/110.
Where you go next depends on if you have a petrol or diesel power unit, on the petrol it is just a matter of tapping in a nipple on the inlet manifold to get the vaccum, on a diesel it is more tricky and you need a vacuum pump.
There are many wierd and convoluted ways of doing this, but having had a Daihatsu fourtrack I know the alternator on these has a vac pump integral to it, and other than working out an oil feed should fit in easily you need the oil feed because it has graphite vanes that run in oil to get a seal and prevent wear.
But you could find an electric or other mechanical pump to suit, but if you fit the disc brakes you would have to do this anyway, interesting as what you will do, please keep us informed.

 

[madkayaker]

I have fitted the brakes off a late s3 onto my lightweight and after you gt over the problems foots of different size brake nipples and the fact that the master cylinder is bigger internal but looks the same as the servo s3 unit your
Eft with very good brakes. I do have a spare servo and peddle assembly if your in need but no cylinder

 

[seriesonewelder]

an other option using drums is the 3" wide shoes etc from the 2.6 engined Land Rovers
as said set them up properly and keep them adjusted, my 109" with V8 has 11" LWB brakes with a remote servo and I can lock up the wheels

 

[Cobbler]

Hi everyone, my post has certainly got some ideas coming in. Thanks incidentally several posters have said about fitting a servo, this was fitted as standard, see previous posts. I think the larger drums would be worth looking out for though. Discs I think are a no-no too much hassle for so little gain. It was a nice idea. There has been more common sense info generated here than my son got from the LR forums.

Regards
Cobbler

 

[Shox Dr]

You could take a set Disc braked axles cut the coil gear off, and weld new tabs on for leaf spring seats, they are not that expensive

 

[Ragnarok]

You could take a set Disc braked axles cut the coil gear off, and weld new tabs on for leaf spring seats, they are not that expensive

if you go for that option you also get front CV joints in place of the universals that series have, means you can fit the full gear and transfer box from a defender and have permanent 4wd, though i love having rear wheel drive, power sliding on snow, ice and grass is just fun haha

 

[octo0072000]

You could take a set Disc braked axles cut the coil gear off, and weld new tabs on for leaf spring seats, they are not that expensive

that works but you need to fit extended wheel arch's on a series with 90 axles

or you need the early narrow rims to keep the tyres inside the bodywork

 

[Shox Dr]

where's the fun in that

 

[CompoSimmonite]

You could take a set Disc braked axles cut the coil gear off, and weld new tabs on for leaf spring seats, they are not that expensive

Steering arm goes exactly where the spring are People then have to fabricate a bent link to clear but of course this is now going to be an MOT fail with the new 2012 rules - unmodified steering components.
One way round is to use very early 110 hub carriers which can have the Series type arms bolted to the top (and the cast ones cut off).
I machined adapters to mount coil swivels onto Series axles before discovering the spring fouling problem. Also Stage 1 half shafts were needed and horrendous price new. BTW I managed to get FWH's to fit disc braked hubs - early 2.25 110's had them as an option. Silly price quoted but one dealer had a NOS set on the shelf covered in dust so sold them to me for normal drum price.
In the end I decided to go with 6 cylinder drums as they are the same as used on the V8 Stage 1 and wider than normal 109's.

Paul h

 

[Ragnarok]

that works but you need to fit extended wheel arch's on a series with 90 axles

or you need the early narrow rims to keep the tyres inside the bodywork

that depends on the rims you go for, i have standard series axles and 90 rims where the rim is pretty much in 50/50 alignment with the hub, puts the wheel/rim/tyre exactly on the edge of the body, where as the standard series or some 110 wheels have the wheel/rim/tyre quite a lot more in board, so those would probably be fine with the defender axles in a series remember if you want to fit defender axles you'll have to get 90 ones for an 88 or 110 ones for a 109 because the steering geometry is different

 

[Ragnarok]

BTW I managed to get FWH's to fit disc braked hubs - early 2.25 110's had them as an option. Silly price quoted but one dealer had a NOS set on the shelf covered in dust so sold them to me for normal drum price.

Paul h

there are a few places that sell them cheapish now i think craddock do them and so do ashcroft transmissions

 

[john224]

If stearing moddifications will be a MOT failier this year HOW will 99% of rallycars/ compatition cars pass there mots ? as most of them have modded stearing components,,
My mate has a series 3, 88" that we fitted power steering off a disco on it and acording to the new rules this SHOULD fail as it didnt leave the factory like it ,,
Just one thing though how do kit cars work on this?