More building advice for the workshop please

[astro_al]

Hi guys, I am trying to sort the insulation in the workshop.

I scored a shed load of polystyrene insulation panels (50mm), and another shed load of plasterboard.

The walls are concrete rendered blockwork. I need to know the fastest & cheapest way to stuck these suckers to the walls? I figure a bunch of adhesive will do the job quickest, rather than drilling fixings etc?

Anyone know what will stick the polywhatsit to concrete (without eating the poly), and then plasterboard to polywhatsit?

There won't be any load on these, its just a lining for the walls. the area is massive, so whatever it is needs to be cheap. Is there anything that can be sprayed on for speedy progress?

Cheers, Al.

 

[Shox Dr]

The correct way is to batten the wall with 19x38 (or similar) tile lath cover with DPM and the fix poly/PB to that.

But you could also;

Fix straight through both with a masonry screw (the type you don't need plugs.)

Don;t bother with glue it will fail however you could lightly glue the poly to the plaster board if you wish.

Make sure you keep the PB off the floor an inch to stop damp creep.

 

[georgetheforge]

hey al,

if you're concrete blocks are up to the roof line, you could use an expanding foam adhesive- but expensive- squirt a few blobs about and push the poly on- it shouln't eat it- but do a sample 1st!

its how i made- http://www.youtube.com/user/clockworkscenery#p/a/u/1/8DnvJg90AT0

then you could stick the plasterboard to the poly with yellow gripfill- the solvent free one-

the only prob with plasterboard is its lack of damp resistance. i went for a 12mm ply instead-

 

[Engineer1964]

The correct way is to batten the wall with 19x38 (or similar) tile lath cover with DPM and the fix poly/PB to that.

But you could also;

Fix straight through both with a masonry screw (the type you don't need plugs.)

Don;t bother with glue it will fail however you could lightly glue the poly to the plaster board if you wish.

Make sure you keep the PB off the floor an inch to stop damp creep.

I agree, Its best to batten the walls and add the insulation inbetween, not only when you add the platerboard (Make sure its the one with the silver foil on the back to act as a vapour barrier) its easier to screw or nail but the batten give you extra support for fixing shelves, hooks etc...

Bit like the picture below but using your polystyrene insulation panels instead of the fibreglass.

if you cut the polystyrene to fit the battens then you won't need anything to fix them onto the wall as they'll be pretty tight when pushed into the space between the battens.

if you feel you need to fix the polystyrene to the walls you can buy some plastic fixers from builders merchants that simply bang into a drilled hole, they come with support, plug and pin all in one, like the second pic..

 

[blenkie1]

Had our bedroom done last year with polysterene backed plaster boards and no battens were used just what plasters call spot and dab just literally stuck to the wall and plastered over

 

[roofman]

just back them out on the inside with 1/2" plywood...easly fixed then with 75mm screws through the lot into the wall...you must have a vapour barrier between the insulation and the brick or block,not plastic but summit that can breath.

 

[mike os]

what are the walls made of al?

 

[the snooper]

what are the walls made of al?

Ahem
post 1

The walls are concrete rendered blockwork

 

[mike os]

Ahem
post 1

The walls are concrete rendered blockwork

aw ******

single skin or cavity ?

if single skin you cant stick it... they will just get damp & manky. so batten, insulation over or between, sheet of plastic vapour barrier plasterboard over.

if cavity use dry lining adhesive to stick ins then again to stick plasterboard over.

 

[astro_al]

Guys, many thanks for your help.

I have about 250 sq metres of walls to cover, so I neglected to mention that requiring more materials was basically a no-no.

The walls are hollow blocks, but can be relied upon to be constantly damp, therefore I think the concrete screws look like a sensible choice. Also means if I move I can take it all with me!

What will a vapour barrier achieve? Surely the insulation is a solid vapour barrier anyway? With a decent dehumidifier in the workshop, what will the barrier do?

I don't rely on the walls to do anything - support shelves etc etc, everything is free standing (walls are pretty old), so I also can't see why I need battens??? I know that's 'how it should be done', but the aim of the exercise is to line a crappy old farm building - which I can do without battens? Or no?

Good plan with the plasterboard - I'll lift it off the floor and trim it short of the wall pillars every few metres, plus put a damp proof course around the top and sides of each wall section.

Cheers, Al.

 

[roofman]

Guys, many thanks for your help.

I have about 250 sq metres of walls to cover, so I neglected to mention that requiring more materials was basically a no-no.

The walls are hollow blocks, but can be relied upon to be constantly damp, therefore I think the concrete screws look like a sensible choice. Also means if I move I can take it all with me!

What will a vapour barrier achieve? Surely the insulation is a solid vapour barrier anyway? With a decent dehumidifier in the workshop, what will the barrier do?

I don't rely on the walls to do anything - support shelves etc etc, everything is free standing (walls are pretty old), so I also can't see why I need battens??? I know that's 'how it should be done', but the aim of the exercise is to line a crappy old farm building - which I can do without battens? Or no?

Good plan with the plasterboard - I'll lift it off the floor and trim it short of the wall pillars every few metres, plus put a damp proof course around the top and sides of each wall section.

Cheers, Al.

you will have a condensing area between the insulation which will be warm and the block which will be cold and you need to keep a barrier to stop moisture transfere....in our game (flat roofing) the idea is called a "warm roof void" but works on the same principle

 

[mike os]

no vapour barrier & the condensation point will be somewhere inside the insulation (it all absorbs water to some degree, even the foil lined stuff to a point.)... once it gets damp it is no longer insulation, just more damp wall.... exception being wool....

about 500% easier to fix plasterboard to timber with nails when compared to concrete....jme

 

[astro_al]

Ok, so what is the cheapest vapour barrier? Is it just sheeting stuff that comes on rolls?

Mike - I still have to attach the battens to the concrete, so what am I gaining???

I think I'll get a packet of the bolty things and give them a whirl. I'll rethink if it sucks.

Ta for the thoughts, Al.

 

[roofman]

Ok, so what is the cheapest vapour barrier? Is it just sheeting stuff that comes on rolls?

Mike - I still have to attach the battens to the concrete, so what am I gaining???

I think I'll get a packet of the bolty things and give them a whirl. I'll rethink if it sucks.

Ta for the thoughts, Al.

go to a roofing supplier and get summit like tyvek but a generic make which will be cheaper they now use on roofs instead of the old 1F roofing felt...comes in 50m rolls

 

[mike os]

just use a plastic sheet al... thin plastic...temporary cover sheet is what is is sold as here... on a roll like visqueen only thinner & costs less.