carl0s
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Hmmm. So my car has these flanges on it with a bit of pipe coming off, that I'm going to need to weld my stainless pipe up to, so I thought I'd do a practice run tonight to see how I fared.
Firstly, if the materials were the same, and clean, I'd like to just fuse weld them, i.e. autogenous weld.
What's the score with autogenous welding of dissimilar metals, in this case mild & stainless? I do know there's a particular filler that's recommended when welding these two together normally, but what about autogenous?
Secondly, I suppose the pitting and corrosion was the cause of most of my difficulties? If I had spent more time sanding, could I have expected better results, i.e. less difficulty forming a nice pool in the mild steel, and less fizzing and disintegration of the tungsten??
You can see I tried a few things. I did some autogenous fusing, and some small amounts of 308 stainless filler on other parts, and one part was very difficult to get the pool to take on the mild steel, which I suspect is because that part was particularly dirty, hence the big horrid beads on there.
I decided to squeeze the finished article in the vice to see where it broke first, and how weak it was. It is clearly evident that the autogenous bit which was the neatest/smallest of the lot, was only penetrated about 1/4 of the way into the mild steel. I guess that's no good? It did take some squeezing before it started to break/crack though.
What do you think?
^^^ this is where I had real difficulty getting any sort of pooling in the mild. Only the stainless was pooling. I went crazy with the filler, and it still wasn't playing. I think it's because the mild steel needed a lot more cleaning up in that area.
^Mostly autogenous, and a little bit of filler just above the middle of the picture.
^^same again. I did autogenous, and added a little filler afterwards where it didn't look complete.
That v-band flange was already warped anyway from my welding practice on it. Now it's really warped!!
If I am understanding this image correctly, then there is about 1/3rd depth of penetration, or rather the pipe was being held together by that thin lighter-coloured layer that can be seen in the mild steel where the pipe is torn.
Firstly, if the materials were the same, and clean, I'd like to just fuse weld them, i.e. autogenous weld.
What's the score with autogenous welding of dissimilar metals, in this case mild & stainless? I do know there's a particular filler that's recommended when welding these two together normally, but what about autogenous?
Secondly, I suppose the pitting and corrosion was the cause of most of my difficulties? If I had spent more time sanding, could I have expected better results, i.e. less difficulty forming a nice pool in the mild steel, and less fizzing and disintegration of the tungsten??
You can see I tried a few things. I did some autogenous fusing, and some small amounts of 308 stainless filler on other parts, and one part was very difficult to get the pool to take on the mild steel, which I suspect is because that part was particularly dirty, hence the big horrid beads on there.
I decided to squeeze the finished article in the vice to see where it broke first, and how weak it was. It is clearly evident that the autogenous bit which was the neatest/smallest of the lot, was only penetrated about 1/4 of the way into the mild steel. I guess that's no good? It did take some squeezing before it started to break/crack though.
What do you think?
^^^ this is where I had real difficulty getting any sort of pooling in the mild. Only the stainless was pooling. I went crazy with the filler, and it still wasn't playing. I think it's because the mild steel needed a lot more cleaning up in that area.
^Mostly autogenous, and a little bit of filler just above the middle of the picture.
^^same again. I did autogenous, and added a little filler afterwards where it didn't look complete.
That v-band flange was already warped anyway from my welding practice on it. Now it's really warped!!
If I am understanding this image correctly, then there is about 1/3rd depth of penetration, or rather the pipe was being held together by that thin lighter-coloured layer that can be seen in the mild steel where the pipe is torn.
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. You could have bought a bandsaw for that sort of money.
,I have a clarke 6x4 bandsaw ,looks a bit toytown,but they are surprisingly versatile ....
