Corroded hydraulic cylinder aluminium gland nuts suggestions

[zzr1200]

Lol I'm not buying from him I can get 2 on aliexpress for £40 delivered I was just using it to show what the head should look like on the red heavily corroded lift cylinders.

As @m_c says I should be able to remove them as the oring looks to still be hidden by what's left of the rim so should have kept the threads sealed I just need to somehow get a grip so might grind down the corroded aluminium enough to get the 36" stillson on some "flats" and brute force it after heat since the expansion rates are different enough to hopefully pop any corrosion.

I can see why you want to try AliExpress, I've never had to order seals or glands from them, so can't comment on quality.

However I'll be surprised if there is/was an "O"ring between the end of the tube and the bottoming's surface of the gland nut upper flange, usually there's only the pressure sealing "O" ring at the bottom of the gland nut between the tube (at the opposite end of the gland nut to the pin spanner holes), apart from the main rod seals.

That's why getting the corroded/seized thread un-done will be interesting.

The best you'll get is if someone has used copper slip/silicone sealer on the thread, if its been rebuild in the past to stop ingress of grit/water.

I have also work at a local cylinder re-manufacturer for a few months, with theses types seized of rebuilds we would extend the ram/cut the rod/ then collapse and machine out the gland nut. Then inspect the cylinder tube, machine a new gland (changing seal types if required), fit new rod/rewelded old eye combo, and install a new cylinder tube to old end cap if required.

That's why I said good luck above.......

 

[Kram]

just need to somehow get a grip so might grind down the corroded aluminium enough to get the 36" stillson on some "flats" and brute force it

Stilsons are not that good, its a perfect job for a large sweedish type pipe wrench and they will grip it well as it is.
Just get it hot first.

 

[Bki26]

I can see why you want to try AliExpress, I've never had to order seals or glands from them, so can't comment on quality.

However I'll be surprised if there is/was an "O"ring between the end of the tube and the bottoming's surface of the gland nut upper flange, usually there's only the pressure sealing "O" ring at the bottom of the gland nut between the tube (at the opposite end of the gland nut to the pin spanner holes), apart from the main rod seals.

That's why getting the corroded/seized thread un-done will be interesting

Thankfully it should have a seal at the start of the threads so that plus the threads not being super fine should hopefully let me get it out.

Stilsons are not that good, its a perfect job for a large sweedish type pipe wrench and they will grip it well as it is.
Just get it hot first.

Looks like mole grips on steroids lol, the 36" stillson are the self tightening type so I'm thinking if I disassemble it first and drill a couple holes in the adjustment nut I can preload it like spinning a lathe chuck with the key before it grips even tighter with the scaffolding pole I'll be adding

 

[pressbrake1]

With enough heat, those nuts should come off with a pipe wrench.

If not, remove and soak ends in strong hot caustic for a day or two.

In my time of making hydraulic rams youd be surprised how tight they get and even heat is no substitute for a torque rig

 

[pressbrake1]

Those rams look very sad
Assuming the cylinder is good and the only bit worth saving along with the piston..
Cut eye off rod
Machine rear cap off cylinder and pull out rod /piston assembly
Machine out busted gland and make new
Make new rod if necessary
Reweld cap on

 

[Bki26]

Hopefully it won't come to that as don't have the machinery to do said work.

The thread shouldn't be corroded due to the seal it's just the end face edge of the head that's **Language**ed so if I can get it turning then it should just come out easily but worse can if I carefully grind/file away the head lip then that's what's holding the whole thing in comprehension and it should just spin freely after, like taking a bolt that's torqued down with a nut and grinding the head off so you can screw it through the nut.

 

[Kram]

Is this going to be 40 pages before you try some heat on it?

 

[Bki26]

Lol there's like 10 bottles of map plus gas in the tool container and several propane tanks I can hook up the triple head blow torch so should be able to get some good heat into it when peening and brute force isn't enough!

 

[Bki26]

Drilled the larger pin holes so now the main issue is stopping the damn pins popping out before I've even got the cheater bar on! Might have to clamp around the rod just to keep it in pushed against the head. Put a bit of heat into it but absolutely not budging so going to leave it for now till the seals arrive as usable but leaking and then drain fully before applying heat so I'm not just heating the oil/making a pressure bomb.

The lift cylinder heads just crumpled when I had a go at it with the small pipe wrench so once the new heads arrive I can use them as a visual reference to drill several holes reducing the material before putting the cylinders head down in a bucket of sodium hydroxide solution to dissolve what's left.