My first practice welds (Flux Core)

[Rust Warrior]

A couple of tips.
Plenty of ventilation as the gas is unpleasant and plenty of light to penetrate said gas.

I have 2 tips: they came with the welder...

 

[Rust Warrior]

I've been using my now, scrap, bumper off my van having replaced the bumper with a nice new one, to practice some more welds with my gasless MIG welder. I've no idea for sure what thickness the steel is, but it's probably 1.2 or 1.5mm.

The first few I can tell that the amps were far too low at 40 - 45, because the welds were like pigeon droppings, narrow, and no penetration to the base metal. I was also trying butt welds with what I felt was quite a large gap, but that gap is probably normal and I just had the amps too low to fill it.

I've moved to to a lap weld at a much higher amps; 100. Burnt a hole a couple of times, but some aspects of the welds seemed better with penetration to the base metal where I was making stronger welds. I'm still struggling to hold the line straight because it's so dark with the mask on, so some of the welds are off on a curve or a bit wobbly. Lap welds were easier to follow because of the protruding edge.

More practice and I should get incrementally better.

 

[Rust Warrior]

More photos of the lap weld.

 

[Bouledogue]

@Rust Warrior what area / work-piece lighting do you have? Improving that will have much more of an impact on visibility than continuing to fiddle with the helmet settings.

 

[Erie Fred]

@Rust Warrior what area / work-piece lighting do you have? Improving that will have much more of an impact on visibility than continuing to fiddle with the helmet settings.

I would also suggest practicing on some clean straight metal on a bench first.

 

[Wozzaaah]

You are trying to run before you can walk.
Throw that rusty rubbish in a skip, get some clean steel and practice running straight lines on it.
Once you can do that, move on to making joints.

 

[Rust Warrior]

@Rust Warrior what area / work-piece lighting do you have? Improving that will have much more of an impact on visibility than continuing to fiddle with the helmet settings.

I was working outside in direct sunlight.

 

[Rust Warrior]

You are trying to run before you can walk.
Throw that rusty rubbish in a skip, get some clean steel and practice running straight lines on it.
Once you can do that, move on to making joints.

The advice I've seen everywhere else is to practice on some scrap. My later welds today are progress. Straighter lines and better penetration.

 

[Bouledogue]

The advice I've seen everywhere else is to practice on some scrap. My later welds today are progress. Straighter lines and better penetration.

Two very experienced welders (@Erie Fred and @Wozzaaah ) have told you what you need to do in order to improve. With respect, there's no point asking the question if you're not going to listen to them.

Clean steel, at a bench, comfortable and well-lit. Otherwise, you're really making life hard for yourself, brother.

 

[Erie Fred]

The advice I've seen everywhere else is to practice on some scrap. My later welds today are progress. Straighter lines and better penetration.

"Everywhere Else"......

 

[Wozzaaah]

The advice I've seen everywhere else is to practice on some scrap. My later welds today are progress. Straighter lines and better penetration.

Clean scrap, not rusty old moth-eaten scrap.

 

[Mark 2]

If you're in direct sunlight (without reflection) then it seems to me that your helmet is not adjusted correctly (shade).
You need to be able to see and know what you are looking at.
I uce fluxcore and the amount of gas coming off is ridiculous so do mind the inhaled crap.
Also, do wire brush after it'll be easier to see what's happening.
You can use old metal (you'll probably glean more fom that than shiny new) but do make a mental note of your prep and the outcome of the weld.
With regards to amps, that's a big leap from 45 to 100 and as you note, pigeon droppings to blow through would tell you somewhere in between.
I think you'll get there.

 

[Dave-sparks]

The advice I've seen everywhere else is to practice on some scrap. My later welds today are progress. Straighter lines and better penetration.

Scrap for practice is offcuts from good clean stock, not bits of rusty rubbish that need throwing away.

 

[ReddZed]

Scrap for practice is offcuts from good clean stock, not bits of rusty rubbish that need throwing away.

I wandered into Metal Supermarket in Glasgow, asked about offcuts, they were very helpful and they had them all all sorted by thickness. Rummaged around, bought far too much, and left happy with my purchase.

 

[Rust Warrior]

Clean scrap, not rusty old moth-eaten scrap.

Perfectly clean metal where I've ground the paint away and cleaned mating surfaces. Considering I'll be cutting away some rot and welding to some "old moth-eaten scrap" (aka my work van), I figured its damn good practice.

 

[Rust Warrior]

If you're in direct sunlight (without reflection) then it seems to me that your helmet is not adjusted correctly (shade).
You need to be able to see and know what you are looking at.
I uce fluxcore and the amount of gas coming off is ridiculous so do mind the inhaled crap.
Also, do wire brush after it'll be easier to see what's happening.
You can use old metal (you'll probably glean more fom that than shiny new) but do make a mental note of your prep and the outcome of the weld.
With regards to amps, that's a big leap from 45 to 100 and as you note, pigeon droppings to blow through would tell you somewhere in between.
I think you'll get there.

Shade 10 out of 13.