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Made some swarf today after finally getting round to assembling my xmas present and started making some brackets.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I made a patch for a KDJ95 Land Cruiser.
It's for one of the locations where the body mounts to the chassis and it was tricky because it's an awkward shape, it's made from 2mm steel and I didn't have a lot to go from.
The dished reinforcement plate took longer but I made it yesterday.
Of course the bracket on the chassis is toast as well but at least they are available, so I'm not bothered with making one of them.
Again I got suckered into welding a couple of patches for a mate, but it's always worse than it first appears especially as the thing is full of botched repairs.
It might be worth a thread on it own because there is certainly more than a days work in it.
It's for one of the locations where the body mounts to the chassis and it was tricky because it's an awkward shape, it's made from 2mm steel and I didn't have a lot to go from.
The dished reinforcement plate took longer but I made it yesterday.
Of course the bracket on the chassis is toast as well but at least they are available, so I'm not bothered with making one of them.
Again I got suckered into welding a couple of patches for a mate, but it's always worse than it first appears especially as the thing is full of botched repairs.
It might be worth a thread on it own because there is certainly more than a days work in it.
mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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11 days of hard graft, to get from here.
To here.
Super budget kitchen / utility room / dining room for my sister. Mostly second hand units and a bit of ingenuity. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and she's over the moon, so that'll do for me.
And as a bonus she's doing the painting, which is the bit I really hate.
To here.
Super budget kitchen / utility room / dining room for my sister. Mostly second hand units and a bit of ingenuity. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and she's over the moon, so that'll do for me.
And as a bonus she's doing the painting, which is the bit I really hate.
selectedgrub
Member
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Yes snap.
Kram
Member
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At first I thought it was a stay big toe.Yes snap.
(Might have to get some to stick on side of new wood chipper!)
The_Yellow_Ardvark
I'm a citizen of Legoland travellin' incommunicado
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- Going Away.
Did you ever leave?Good to see the weirdness is back.
Dr.Al
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- Gloucestershire, UK
This is a fairly simple clock I made out of a couple of book-matched slices of Ash with pieces of Bog Oak inserted into the face to mark the hour positions. The mechanism is an off-the-shelf one that gets the time from the UK radio signal and is very quiet in operation (which is nice for this clock as it lives in the bedroom).
If you're interested, you can read the details about how I made it in the build log on my website (sorry, I didn't post this WIP on the forum).
As a relatively Newbie on here I thought the “weirdness “ was the norm?Good to see the weirdness is back.
Either way it’s a great forum
Bullet2012
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- on average about 200 miles from the ISS.
Thats awesome, wish i had your skills or even patience. thank you for the great write up
Dr.Al
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Some simple improvements to a couple of router planes. These aren't an original idea, but I can't find the link to the post (on another forum) to credit the originator so I apologise for that.
The first modification is a height adjuster for my Record #722. This is what it initially looked like after dismantling:
It's got two 6 mm diameter holes spaced 20 mm apart. The cutter (which has a 5.6 mm shank) can go in either hole and the same clamp screw holds it in place.
The first job was to drill and tap an M5 hole, halfway in between the two cutter holes:
I didn't let the tap go all the way in. That way I could tighten a bit of M5 threaded rod into the hole without it getting in the way of the clamp screw.
M5 has a 0.8 mm pitch, which is fairly close to the (32 TPI if memory serves me correctly) thread on my Veritas router plane.
With the threaded rod fitted, I could make two simple pieces, one of of stainless steel and one out of brass:
Fitted (with the cutter in what I would consider to be the normal position):
and in the other position:
While I was at it, I also made this, again out of stainless steel and brass:
That's a depth stop (based very closely on the Veritas design) for my Stanley #71:
The first modification is a height adjuster for my Record #722. This is what it initially looked like after dismantling:
It's got two 6 mm diameter holes spaced 20 mm apart. The cutter (which has a 5.6 mm shank) can go in either hole and the same clamp screw holds it in place.
The first job was to drill and tap an M5 hole, halfway in between the two cutter holes:
I didn't let the tap go all the way in. That way I could tighten a bit of M5 threaded rod into the hole without it getting in the way of the clamp screw.
M5 has a 0.8 mm pitch, which is fairly close to the (32 TPI if memory serves me correctly) thread on my Veritas router plane.
With the threaded rod fitted, I could make two simple pieces, one of of stainless steel and one out of brass:
Fitted (with the cutter in what I would consider to be the normal position):
and in the other position:
While I was at it, I also made this, again out of stainless steel and brass:
That's a depth stop (based very closely on the Veritas design) for my Stanley #71:
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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I recently gained a small DC PSU with a switchable output, but when I went to use it today it seemed to be dead. No problem, I thought, the case has four screws holding it together. BUT, they're snake-eye security screws, and about 30mm down narrow holes, so the usual hex bits are way too short and also too thick.
No worries, I hunted out a piece of steel about 3/8" diameter, chucked it up and turned a piece to suit. A quick bit of junior hacksaw and file action and I had this
It worked a treat. At least it turned the screws, but didn't unscrew them
It was then that I noticed the black insulating tape wrapped around the case
All four pillars had failed, so a job for some superglue tomorrow, I suppose.
And the fault with the unit? There wasn't one. It's a cheap design and the voltage switch doesn't have any detent, so it's possible to bridge two of the pads on the PCB, at which point it throws a wobbly and the output LED doesn't illuminate
The good news is that it works and powers the Brother label printer that @JOEPRO was good enough to send me.
Tomorrow should see some tapes popping through the letterbox to see if it works. Fingers crossed.
No worries, I hunted out a piece of steel about 3/8" diameter, chucked it up and turned a piece to suit. A quick bit of junior hacksaw and file action and I had this
It worked a treat. At least it turned the screws, but didn't unscrew them
It was then that I noticed the black insulating tape wrapped around the case
All four pillars had failed, so a job for some superglue tomorrow, I suppose.
And the fault with the unit? There wasn't one. It's a cheap design and the voltage switch doesn't have any detent, so it's possible to bridge two of the pads on the PCB, at which point it throws a wobbly and the output LED doesn't illuminate
The good news is that it works and powers the Brother label printer that @JOEPRO was good enough to send me.
Tomorrow should see some tapes popping through the letterbox to see if it works. Fingers crossed.
Dell
Member
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- Warwickshire
Not exactly today but yesterday & the day before & the day before that I had been upgrading my little Warco mill to a brushless motor.
A bit of backyard engineering to make a new countrrshaft assembly for the Boxford CSB. The original is well worn, I can’t find replacement bronze bearings/bushes that fit anywhere and have never felt safe with it spinning at full revs, even moreso now it runs a little faster on the VFD.
A rare bit of welding
Needed to mill a keyway in the shaft
Assembled
Miss-calculation
Corrected with some spacers
Back together
Runs a lot smoother, feels a lot safer and giving me 1100rpm at the spindle at full chat.
A rare bit of welding
Needed to mill a keyway in the shaft
Assembled
Miss-calculation
Corrected with some spacers
Back together
Runs a lot smoother, feels a lot safer and giving me 1100rpm at the spindle at full chat.
I made a "you see that bush over there? I don't want to see that bush anymore!" attachment for the skid steer 
Got some overgrown bumpy paths to clear but using it with the quad causes it to get stuck on the bumps and jam up unless you go a 1mph so with the tracks on I should be able to do it all without issue.
Had a pair of odd 6cm square blocks with slots and some imperial bolts close to ~m18 in them that I bolted to the top of the flail and used the long slots to clamp down on the end of the forks with easily over 1t of force (they were already bent Y like hence perfect for the tapered fork tips) and it barely moved after some thrashing about tests.
I also wired up a removable extension kill switch for the engine so you can turn it off without getting out the cab just sits on the arm with a +30kg pull magnet.
Got some overgrown bumpy paths to clear but using it with the quad causes it to get stuck on the bumps and jam up unless you go a 1mph so with the tracks on I should be able to do it all without issue.
Had a pair of odd 6cm square blocks with slots and some imperial bolts close to ~m18 in them that I bolted to the top of the flail and used the long slots to clamp down on the end of the forks with easily over 1t of force (they were already bent Y like hence perfect for the tapered fork tips) and it barely moved after some thrashing about tests.
I also wired up a removable extension kill switch for the engine so you can turn it off without getting out the cab just sits on the arm with a +30kg pull magnet.
selectedgrub
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