How Would You Lock This Bolt?

[Bravheart]

As an agriculturalist weldings good.
Think I would check that it's not tapered, bottomed out or an obscure thread first. A farmer might have been in and performed some temporary repair/butchery in the past. Then check the mating faces are clean and flush then use a starlock/shakeproof washer along with a new stud. Locktite might help but use weak stuff.
Can you get a parts list to check the stud thread?

Edit. Looked at the picture again should the washer be bevelled that way perhaps it's deformed a new one might keep spring pressure on the stud.

 

[8ob]

Thanks, yes there's some slop in the splines, I expect that's what causes the bolt to work loose. Which Loctite product would work there?

A sloppy spline will make the bolt work loose no matter how you lock it up. Coat internal/external splines with Araldite ,carefully push both parts together and tighten the bolt. Leave it for a few days to harden properly, if you ever need it separated you will need the hot spanner.

Bob

 

[aesmith]

Thanks again. The spline isn't tapered. The bolt doesn't bottom out at the moment but I'll need to check without the spring washer.

No votes for lock wire?

I tried a steel plate as suggested but I think the material wasn't strong enough, need something thicker than the bottom of a bean tin.

 

[bricol]

Loctite 660 for the worn splines - but you'll need to heat it to get it apart. Probably won't need the bolt after using it, so no need to worry about it coming loose

 

[aesmith]

Cheers. How much heat do these Loctite products need to soften them? No problem heating the metal bits but the limit would be the oil seal on the shaft.

 

[bert]

+1 for a nordlock washer

 

[Greeves246]

Wire lock.” If it’s tight it won’t come undone, if it’s wirelocked it can’t come undone”. Used wire locking on race bikes and never had one come loose.

 

[zzr1200]

Thanks, yes there's some slop in the splines, I expect that's what causes the bolt to work loose. Which Loctite product would work there?

First some questions

1. Is the fan (grey) metal

2 How much slop is there in the splines (rotational).

3. Is the fan held tight on the shaft length wise when the bolt is tight or is there still movement along the length of the spline.
ie:- Does the bolt just tighten against the shaft but not the fan allowing length wise movement.

 

[aesmith]

First some questions

1. Is the fan (grey) metal
Yes, steel

2. How much slop is there in the splines (rotational).
I haven't worked out how to hold the shaft firm to measure. But with the bolt loose the impeller can rock on the shaft. Around 2mm at the tip of the blade. That's 2mm total, not 2mm each way. Impeller diameter is 580mm

3. Is the fan held tight on the shaft length wise when the bolt is tight ..
Yes, with the bolt tight the impeller doesn't move relative to the shaft.

 

[MattF]

For taking out a bit of spline slop, could be worth lathering some epoxy resin on the shaft, refitting the fan & nipping the bolt up. The epoxy may, or may not, last, but a simple way of taking out slop once it cures, & easier to remove the fan than if Loctited.

 

[zzr1200]

1. Is the fan (grey) metal
Yes, steel

2. How much slop is there in the splines (rotational).
I haven't worked out how to hold the shaft firm to measure. But with the bolt loose the impeller can rock on the shaft. Around 2mm at the tip of the blade. That's 2mm total, not 2mm each way. Impeller diameter is 580mm

3. Is the fan held tight on the shaft length wise when the bolt is tight ..
Yes, with the bolt tight the impeller doesn't move relative to the shaft.

1...

2.. There is a product called "Bearing retainer" it removes small amounts of play/wear in bearing pockets it is a form of Locktite, I used a similar product to take the play/slop out of a ZZR1100 rear wheel bearing housing, with about the same movement, because a new rear wheel was silly money, ever had a problem afterwards. And I didn't hang about in those days...

RS PRO Green R41 Medium Strength, Retaining Compound Bis(Isopropyl)Naphthalene, Cumene Hydroperoxide, Hydroxyalkyl | RS

uk.rs-online.com

3... Spray the threads with brake cleaner or similar product allow to dry, you can try Threadlock at first, if it come loose try Studlock, but you will have to use heat to remove the bolt.

Thread Lock | Thread Locking Glue | RS

Shop our range of Thread Lock Adhesives. Browse our latest Thread Lock Adhesive offers.Fast Delivery

uk.rs-online.com

hth


PS. And if all else fails......DEVCON... It can be drilled/threaded and turned...but pricey...

Devcon 10112 Plastic Steel Putty (A) 500gr (1x500g)

The original Devcon steel-filled epoxy putty.. Devcon Plastic Steel Putty can replace welding for economical, dependable repairs.. Tough, durable and machinable.. Plastic Steel Putty bonds to most metals, concrete and some plastics.. Cures at ambient temperature and has excellent resistance to...

www.lawson-his.co.uk

or

Devcon 11411 Wear Resistant Putty (WR-2) 1x500g

A smooth non rusting ceramic filled epoxy used to repair and rebuild interfacing metallic, low friction surfaces such as machine ways and flanges.. Provides protection against severe abrasion, erosion and bi-metallic corrosion.. Bonds to most metals, concrete and some plastics. . View Technical...

www.lawson-his.co.uk

 

[Turbo]

1. Is the fan (grey) metal
Yes, steel

2. How much slop is there in the splines (rotational).
I haven't worked out how to hold the shaft firm to measure. But with the bolt loose the impeller can rock on the shaft. Around 2mm at the tip of the blade. That's 2mm total, not 2mm each way. Impeller diameter is 580mm

3. Is the fan held tight on the shaft length wise when the bolt is tight ..
Yes, with the bolt tight the impeller doesn't move relative to the shaft.

That's quite a lot of slop!

There are a few loctite products to repair that. What one you use depends on how much slop there is and how it is assembled.
I'll see what stuff I used next time I'm in the workshop.

 

[Windy Miller]

Replace the bolt with a locktighted stud. Drill the stud, fit a castle nut and split pin.

 

[Turbo]

Replace the bolt with a locktighted stud. Drill the stud, fit a castle nut and split pin.

Like that idea.

 

[Bullet2012]

Farmers Agricultural locknut then..

bailing twine !

 

[zzr1200]

bailing twine !

Your definatey not a farmer.....

 

[Bullet2012]

Your definatey not a farmer.....

no my career is safe from rachel in accounts

 

[bricol]

+1 for a nordlock washer

Pointless if using it with the existing washer.

And I doubt one intended for slots would be large enough to cover what that existing washer does.

 

[Smallfry]

HT Flange headed bolt with serrations under the head to bite into the washer ? Ideally without the washer if possible, or could you weld the washer to the impeller ?

Plus degrease hole with brake cleaner, blow out with airline, and some medium strength threadlock for belt and braces.

 

[aesmith]

Thanks everyone. A proper fix, reducing or removing play in the splines, needs a bit of dismantling. I don't want the snowblower in bits during winter so I've gone for a temporary (hopefully) fix. Remove spring washer as advised. Replace bolt with an Allen screw drilled for lock wire. Tightened and wired to one of the blades.

Allen screw because easier to drill. Unless there's some trick it's beyond me to drill through the corner of a hex bolt head.

Still swithering about a proper fix. I don't understand the need for the heavy washer, maybe that could be welded in place, and something added to secure a tab washer.

I will need to take the gearbox out in the spring as that's the only way to get at the oil. I'll be able to reassess then, and maybe fix the slop.