angellonewolf
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still waiting for how to get this out the van thread
- Thread starter Smallfry
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Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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I reckon it will go forwards out of the side door.still waiting for how to get this out the van thread
still waiting for how to get this out the van thread
Should have shut the doors quick leaving the guy that rode it in inside, so he could ride it out again on arrival.....
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Bit late to this, but even after almost 20 years riding Pan Euros (mostly the 1300 which is about a grain of sand lighter than the 1100) I'd be bricking it, pushing one up a plank into a van.
I did once have to get recovered from an Alpine hotel after I shredded the rear tyre; they sent a tilt-bed VW and I had to ride up the aluminium checkerplate deck with rain waterfalling down it, slightest touch on the throttle and the bike would wheelspin. All while the lunchtime punters watched from the hotel dining room.
The 1100s were on carbs rather than injection so you don't have that complication, but they did run a timing belt rather than chain so if the new owner plans to keep it rather than ride it into the ground it might be worth changing that. My '98 bike reputedly did over 100,000 miles on its original but that's only because it didn't show up in the service history as being replaced, I bought it at 99k.
Swingarms are steel and (like the Goldwing) can rot through (instant MOT fail). The 1300's is alloy and doesn't have the same problem.
Big and heavy but also fantastically stable, roomy for two and comfortable although tall riders complain that their knees hit the fairing - the 1300 has an adjustable seat from the feedback Honda received over the 1100. That said, the 11's is more comfortable. Pannier locks are a bit of a faff on if they get corroded.
If I recall right, the factory topbox wasn't quite big enough for two full-face helmets.
Servicing is a piece of cake, none of the fairings need to come off to change the oil, oil filter, plugs or air filter - you just hinge the tank up.
Brake calipers are prone to sticking in winter and/or if neglected. As usual with modern bikes the pads are wafer thin to start with so by 10k miles you'll be needing them apart anyway. EBC or SBS pads if you can't get genuine Honda ones; most of the others are Asian junk. Discs will do 80k miles before hitting the wear limit.
Some of the 11s had traction control as well as ABS. They also have linked brakes which many people complain about with no good reason, most bikers are not good enough to better them.
Once you get used to the weight, you can chuck them around a lot harder than most people expect (though the 1300 is better in that respect).
I did once have to get recovered from an Alpine hotel after I shredded the rear tyre; they sent a tilt-bed VW and I had to ride up the aluminium checkerplate deck with rain waterfalling down it, slightest touch on the throttle and the bike would wheelspin. All while the lunchtime punters watched from the hotel dining room.
The 1100s were on carbs rather than injection so you don't have that complication, but they did run a timing belt rather than chain so if the new owner plans to keep it rather than ride it into the ground it might be worth changing that. My '98 bike reputedly did over 100,000 miles on its original but that's only because it didn't show up in the service history as being replaced, I bought it at 99k.
Swingarms are steel and (like the Goldwing) can rot through (instant MOT fail). The 1300's is alloy and doesn't have the same problem.
Big and heavy but also fantastically stable, roomy for two and comfortable although tall riders complain that their knees hit the fairing - the 1300 has an adjustable seat from the feedback Honda received over the 1100. That said, the 11's is more comfortable. Pannier locks are a bit of a faff on if they get corroded.
If I recall right, the factory topbox wasn't quite big enough for two full-face helmets.
Servicing is a piece of cake, none of the fairings need to come off to change the oil, oil filter, plugs or air filter - you just hinge the tank up.
Brake calipers are prone to sticking in winter and/or if neglected. As usual with modern bikes the pads are wafer thin to start with so by 10k miles you'll be needing them apart anyway. EBC or SBS pads if you can't get genuine Honda ones; most of the others are Asian junk. Discs will do 80k miles before hitting the wear limit.
Some of the 11s had traction control as well as ABS. They also have linked brakes which many people complain about with no good reason, most bikers are not good enough to better them.
Once you get used to the weight, you can chuck them around a lot harder than most people expect (though the 1300 is better in that respect).
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Built like a tank, relatively low-revving engine with a torque curve flatter than Keira Knightley. No silly electronics to go phut.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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I used five of your kwikstage scaffold planks to load it. They have come in useful already !
The swinging arm has been replaced. It looks OK, but I guess they rot from inside out. It has done 65k and has 11 months MOT so hopefully its OK
I noticed the Traction Control switch. No idea if it works though. I took the panniers off before loading, so they seem OK. No top box though.
It started up instantly, and ran smoothly once off choke. Only thing I have noticed, is that I can pull the brake lever right into the throttle control. I imagine this is not right, so will need attention, another reason why I don't think its a good idea to ride it home 160 miles for its first outing. I don't know what his long term plans are for it, but I think it will suit him
Rider is a little on the large side, so will be interesting to see if he fits. I shall pass on your observations too.
Try pulling the lever that hard when it's moving, you may find it's all locked up at about halfway travel.
Smallfry
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Thanks for that. I don't ride, so don't know. I imagined it would lock solid before it got that far.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Yeah, spotted the planks in the photo
I wouldn't expect the lever to go all the way back to the bar without some effort, if you can do it between one finger and thumb something's not right. Or you're an orang-utan.
Pete.
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A soft lever on front brakes on bikes can be simply that the air vent into the master cylinder reservoir is blocked. As the pads wear and the fluid level drops it pulls a partial vacuum in the reservoir. I thappens on my BMW bikes from time to time, the air vent is via the screw holes for the reservoir cover. Just looseing the screws, cracking the seal on the cover and re-tightening the screws is usually enough to sort it.
Smallfry
HE's Spartacus.
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Thanks for the offer, but sorted now. I am going to collect something on the way back, so will need the van anyway.
