Range Rover Sport transfer box

[Guineafowl]

05 plate, I think. Belongs to a mate. Appears to be a Disco 3 with ‘Range Rover’ written on it.

We’ve had it up on the lift, and there seems to be a bearing noise coming from the back of the transfer box.

Any tips/advice on getting the box off? It looks like we’ll need some sort of crowsfoot thing to get at the upper bolts. Maybe @Ubique could do this job in his sleep?

 

[sako243]

They are pretty much and a bit of a sod to work on from what I know.

 

[tom2207]

be very sure its not the shafts or the carrier bearing first ,,,, if you have a two poster and can run it with the wheels off the ground to be sure ,, personally I would pull the box and do it on the floor

 

[Guineafowl]

Yes, I had a listen with the ‘big screwdriver stethoscope’ with the wheels spinning.

 

[wyn]

I've recently done the clutch on my D3. With the supporting cross member out of the way the gearbox and transfer box drop down quite a lot, probably enough to get the transfer box bolts.
This is with the 2 prop shafts off.

 

[Ubique]

Firstly, decide what you want to do - exchange transfer box or split it & replace the bearing....
If you split it, then you need to use anaerobic sealant - black silicone won't last, the best stuff is the Ford red stuff.
Edit: you can also use Loctite 5999 which is used on differentials, the transfer box oil is a bit more 'seeking' and will find any way through unless you clean, clean & clean again before sealing the box up. The Ford sealant is 2288303, I never had any problems using that, even if I only cleaned the mating faces once or twice....
Personally, I'd get another transfer box... You also need to use the correct grease on the input splines (and hope that the noise isn't from there, if it is, check the transmission output shaft carefully. The correct grease (please don't use copperslip!) is IYX500050, the bearing & seal kits are probably as much as a decent transfer box from a breakers. The Steyr boxes are common up to 2012 across Discovery 3, 4 & RR Sport - the later ones have a different front output so won't fit.

Removal...
Remove the viscous fan at the front of the engine, support the transmission, remove the exhaust & the rear propshaft (if the rear 4 bolts are a problem, tie it up put of the way - don't leave it hanging on the centre bearing!), unbolt the front propshaft & release from the flange, remove the transfer box crossmember, lower the transmission & transfer box until the transmission is 'just' supported, release the harness connectors, harness & transfer box breather pipe (push the pipe in slightly then push the outer sleeve, I use a trim tool)
The top two bolts need a crescent spanner to release, the others are reasonably easy to access. I'd suggest you lift the transmission up slightly before taking out the last bolt and support the transfer box to stop it spinning as it's not balanced around the input shaft, it should just slide off the transmission output shaft but may need 'encouraging' to get moving...

Transfer box takes 1.5 litres of oil, fill to level, don't worry about calibrating the clutch or range change, you can do it if you have the diagnostics but it'll learn 'on the hoof'

Workshop instructions for bearing R&I attached, transfer box R&I takes about 1.6-2.0 hours, if the exhaust is problematic, then cut and use exhaust sleeves

 

[harveyp6]

ISTR from working on early range rovers that to remove the gearbox crossmember the chassis has to be spread a bit for it to come out.
Later ones might be different of course.

 

[sako243]

Remove the viscous fan at the front of the engine

takes about 1.6-2.0 hours

That first bit on a 4.4TDV8 took me 3 days alone!

Edit - seriously why does a plastic shroud need a dozen bolts to hold it in place! Anyway rant over (probably).

 

[Ubique]

ISTR from working on early range rovers that to remove the gearbox crossmember the chassis has to be spread a bit for it to come out.
Later ones might be different of course.

It's not the case with L319/L320's, the crossmember sits in 'pockets' and is held by two bolts & nuts either side, with one through the transmission mount which is bolted to the underside of the transfer box.

 

[Ubique]

That first bit on a 4.4TDV8 took me 3 days alone!

It's to prevent damage, you might 'get away' with removing the top housing and having a small child perched on the slam panel with their hand cable tied to the bottom of the fan, when they squeal, you're close to the coolant radiator!

 

[sako243]

It's to prevent damage, you might 'get away' with removing the top housing and having a small child perched on the slam panel with their hand cable tied to the bottom of the fan, when they squeal, you're close to the coolant radiator!

Oh this was to change the alternator without dropping the engine out. Except that some f*****it had driven the viscous fan on with a chisel . I ended up having to buy a special spanner to hold the pulley and wedge it against the barns ceiling with a scaffolding pole and then with another pole on the viscous fan I was finally able to get it undone.

Then undo the multitude of bolts holding a bit of plastic shroud onto the radiator. I only put four back (coupled with the turbo valve through it) and it's just as secure as with the multitude of others.

 

[Ubique]

I've seen that- usually where they try and drive it off the wrong way, then give up.... After the rear prop to differential clamping sleeve on L405 etc., they're no longer a challenge - and we have the scaffolding cut to size!

 

[Guineafowl]

Firstly, decide what you want to do - exchange transfer box or split it & replace the bearing....
If you split it, then you need to use anaerobic sealant - black silicone won't last, the best stuff is the Ford red stuff.
Edit: you can also use Loctite 5999 which is used on differentials, the transfer box oil is a bit more 'seeking' and will find any way through unless you clean, clean & clean again before sealing the box up. The Ford sealant is 2288303, I never had any problems using that, even if I only cleaned the mating faces once or twice....
Personally, I'd get another transfer box... You also need to use the correct grease on the input splines (and hope that the noise isn't from there, if it is, check the transmission output shaft carefully. The correct grease (please don't use copperslip!) is IYX500050, the bearing & seal kits are probably as much as a decent transfer box from a breakers. The Steyr boxes are common up to 2012 across Discovery 3, 4 & RR Sport - the later ones have a different front output so won't fit.

Removal...
Remove the viscous fan at the front of the engine, support the transmission, remove the exhaust & the rear propshaft (if the rear 4 bolts are a problem, tie it up put of the way - don't leave it hanging on the centre bearing!), unbolt the front propshaft & release from the flange, remove the transfer box crossmember, lower the transmission & transfer box until the transmission is 'just' supported, release the harness connectors, harness & transfer box breather pipe (push the pipe in slightly then push the outer sleeve, I use a trim tool)
The top two bolts need a crescent spanner to release, the others are reasonably easy to access. I'd suggest you lift the transmission up slightly before taking out the last bolt and support the transfer box to stop it spinning as it's not balanced around the input shaft, it should just slide off the transmission output shaft but may need 'encouraging' to get moving...

Transfer box takes 1.5 litres of oil, fill to level, don't worry about calibrating the clutch or range change, you can do it if you have the diagnostics but it'll learn 'on the hoof'

Workshop instructions for bearing R&I attached, transfer box R&I takes about 1.6-2.0 hours, if the exhaust is problematic, then cut and use exhaust sleeves

Wow, thanks! I think he’ll go for changing the whole transfer box.

When you say remove the exhaust, do you mean the whole thing, right up to the turbo/manifold?

 

[tom2207]

I've seen that- usually where they try and drive it off the wrong way, then give up.... After the rear prop to differential clamping sleeve on L405 etc., they're no longer a challenge - and we have the scaffolding cut to size!

Ive seen some of those little over finger tight from the factory ,,, and I made a big off set spanner and scaff for others ,,, but the ones little over finger tight dont seem to give bother .

 

[sako243]

Ive seen some of those little over finger tight from the factory ,,, and I made a big off set spanner and scaff for others ,,, but the ones little over finger tight dont seem to give bother .

Since it's a reverse thread on the fan it's just unnecessary (fairly sure the TDV8 fan spins in a conventional manner so it's a left-hand thread but I'm just covering my ****) point being it self-tightens as the engine spins. Same with my 300Tdi.

What I don't understand (and perhaps it's a BMW influence) is the 4.6 Rover V8 I've fitted to the Sandringham has a right-hand thread on the fan and the fan spins in the conventional manner?! So unless you've given it a good knock with a mallet on the spanner when you tighten it up then it undoes itself. First time I put the fan on and full cooling system I had a huge sinking feeling when I heard a bang from the front thinking what the hell was that. Turns out the fan had spun itself off and fallen down through the tie rods etc., and hit the floor.

And they call it progress...

 

[Ubique]

Wow, thanks! I think he’ll go for changing the whole transfer box.

When you say remove the exhaust, do you mean the whole thing, right up to the turbo/manifold?

There should be a sleeve in line with the transfer box - just the rear section so you can get the heatshield down to access the rear prop centre bearing and have room to move it out of the way. The sleeve can be a pain as it's spot welded on, so quite often it's easier, quicker & cheaper to get another sleeve from a factors and cut the exhaust a bit closer to the engine rather than try & remove something that hasn't moved since it was assembled...
The L320 chassis is actually slightly shorter than the L319 (as is the fuel tank) so you might find there isn't quite as much room to swing things around....

 

[tom2207]

Since it's a reverse thread on the fan it's just unnecessary (fairly sure the TDV8 fan spins in a conventional manner so it's a left-hand thread but I'm just covering my ****) point being it self-tightens as the engine spins. Same with my 300Tdi.

What I don't understand (and perhaps it's a BMW influence) is the 4.6 Rover V8 I've fitted to the Sandringham has a right-hand thread on the fan and the fan spins in the conventional manner?! So unless you've given it a good knock with a mallet on the spanner when you tighten it up then it undoes itself. First time I put the fan on and full cooling system I had a huge sinking feeling when I heard a bang from the front thinking what the hell was that. Turns out the fan had spun itself off and fallen down through the tie rods etc., and hit the floor.

And they call it progress

Sorry I meant the locking collar on shafts ,,, I used to have a note of which fans were right and which were left handed thread wise ,,, woldnt be like land rover to just chop and change ....