Which Circular Saw: Why do power tool manufacturers offer so many variants?

[Rannsachair]

The one you've linked for £200 is the one to have. The FCS552. 55mm depth of cut. 165mm blade. About £18 for a good dewalt blade. I use the 40T and it's good all round.

The non "fuel" saw is useless, really not enough power for the job.

The rear handle saws are big and powerful, but too heavy for making lots of cuts in thinner materials not an all rounder really.

You need a 5Ah battery with it really. Or the High Output batteries.

With the 5.5Ah High Output it's a different beast compared to the 5ah standard red lithium battery.

The only thing is the blade cuts upwards towards you. Gives a good finish, but certain materials that splinter, you will need eye protection. It suits a right handed person because you can see the blade easily.

Great advice, I have a M18 5.5 amp High Output battery, plan to get another. I was previously told on the forum to get the M12 High Output for my current tools.

 

[addjunkie]

Great advice, I have a M18 5.5 amp High Output battery, plan to get another. I was previously told on the forum to get the M12 High Output for my current tools.

If you are going red and 18v look at some of the multi buys, saves a few quid as youll need the extra tools any way now you are retired.

 

[Smallfry]

I wouldnt entertain a "freehand" circular saw for anything other than rough work, and TBH, for rough work a recip saw is more useable.

Freehand circular saws will not give a nice straight edge unless you use a guide, and more importantly, tend to give a rough cut no matter how many TPI the blade has. If you want a circular saw for anything that needs to be nice ....... indoors paying work for example, you really need a plunge/track saw. They cut straight, and give a nice finish, even on plywood. Can even take the place of a table saw for a lot of things.

I wouldn't have a battery one either, they do not have the power or the RPMs

 

[Rannsachair]

I wouldnt entertain a "freehand" circular saw for anything other than rough work, and TBH, for rough work a recip saw is more useable.

Freehand circular saws will not give a nice straight edge unless you use a guide, and more importantly, tend to give a rough cut no matter how many TPI the blade has. If you want a circular saw for anything that needs to be nice ....... indoors paying work for example, you really need a plunge/track saw. They cut straight, and give a nice finish, even on plywood. Can even take the place of a table saw for a lot of things.

I wouldn't have a battery one either, they do not have the power or the RPMs

I am no joiner: will be just rough work outdoors. probably in the rain too.

 

[Rannsachair]

The one you've linked for £200 is the one to have. The FCS552. 55mm depth of cut. 165mm blade. About £18 for a good dewalt blade. I use the 40T and it's good all round.

The non "fuel" saw is useless, really not enough power for the job.

The rear handle saws are big and powerful, but too heavy for making lots of cuts in thinner materials not an all rounder really.

You need a 5Ah battery with it really. Or the High Output batteries.

With the 5.5Ah High Output it's a different beast compared to the 5ah standard red lithium battery.

The only thing is the blade cuts upwards towards you. Gives a good finish, but certain materials that splinter, you will need eye protection. It suits a right handed person because you can see the blade easily.

The Dewalt blades look to be a good bit cheaper than the Milwaukee ones - thanks for the tip.

 

[TEO]

I wouldnt entertain a "freehand" circular saw for anything other than rough work, and TBH, for rough work a recip saw is more useable.

Freehand circular saws will not give a nice straight edge unless you use a guide, and more importantly, tend to give a rough cut no matter how many TPI the blade has. If you want a circular saw for anything that needs to be nice ....... indoors paying work for example, you really need a plunge/track saw. They cut straight, and give a nice finish, even on plywood. Can even take the place of a table saw for a lot of things.

I wouldn't have a battery one either, they do not have the power or the RPMs

Plunge/Track saws are def easier & I've had one since 09 however we managed quite well for many yrs with standard circular saws & a straight edge.
You just have to keep the broken out edge on the inside of the piece or if that's not possible run a scribe cut or...pre cut the top surface with a Stanley knife.
It's a bit like the rise of Titebond how on earth did we manage before it came to the UK?

 

[Robotstar5]

I wouldnt entertain a "freehand" circular saw for anything other than rough work, and TBH, for rough work a recip saw is more useable.

Freehand circular saws will not give a nice straight edge unless you use a guide, and more importantly, tend to give a rough cut no matter how many TPI the blade has. If you want a circular saw for anything that needs to be nice ....... indoors paying work for example, you really need a plunge/track saw. They cut straight, and give a nice finish, even on plywood. Can even take the place of a table saw for a lot of things.

I wouldn't have a battery one either, they do not have the power or the RPMs

Maybe it's practice, I find with the big corded saw I can follow a pencil line quite accurately, but tried the same with the smaller bladed battery saw and found I was wandering off line.

 

[daleyd]

Maybe it's practice, I find with the big corded saw I can follow a pencil line quite accurately, but tried the same with the smaller bladed battery saw and found I was wandering off line.

I did our worktops with a clamped straightedge and fine blade on a 165mm saw, they came out lovely to be fair. I didnt trust myself without the straight edge on worktops, but ive done plenty of rough cutting without a straight edge and its always been reasonable - or "good enough" anyway

Put the "good" face down and some masking tape along the cut line.

 

[Craig-SM]

A bit late to this thread but GaryS65 has said most of it. The Milwaukee blades have improved a lot though and suspect Gary had an early version.
Above what @Rannsachair was after spending but the new Gen 3 190mm is a beast of a saw and it’s also guide rail compatible. I sold my 165mm saw and got a plunge saw and use it a lot more as it is mainly sheet cutting I use it for and that is so quick and accurate now.

If you want maximum depth cut and be able to use a guide rail (can use the much cheaper Makita guide rails) too and can stretch the budget then go for it. PowerToolMate has 10% off at the moment with MIL10 code.

Milwaukee M18FCS66GR3-0 18v GEN3 Circular Saw - Guide Rail Compatible - Naked - PowerToolMate

www.powertoolmate.co.uk

 

[gaz1]

but the new Gen 3 190mm is a beast of a saw and it’s also guide rail compatible. I sold my 165mm saw and got a plunge saw and use it a lot more as it is mainly sheet cutting I use it for and that is so quick and accurate now.

if you call that a beast all i can say is dream on

 

[chrismac]

Maybe it's practice, I find with the big corded saw I can follow a pencil line quite accurately, but tried the same with the smaller bladed battery saw and found I was wandering off line.

that is maybe part of the whole track saw debate, you dont have to follow a line, just push the saw,

 

[Agrismith]

I wouldnt entertain a "freehand" circular saw for anything other than rough work, and TBH, for rough work a recip saw is more useable.

Freehand circular saws will not give a nice straight edge unless you use a guide, and more importantly, tend to give a rough cut no matter how many TPI the blade has. If you want a circular saw for anything that needs to be nice ....... indoors paying work for example, you really need a plunge/track saw. They cut straight, and give a nice finish, even on plywood. Can even take the place of a table saw for a lot of things.

I wouldn't have a battery one either, they do not have the power or the RPMs

I don't see how or why you would use a recipe saw for framing work recips are demolition tools with bad vibrations. You could never do a a full days work fencing or framing with a recipe saw without exceeding your allowed vibrations.

 

[daleyd]

I don't see how or why you would use a recipe saw for framing work recips are demolition tools with bad vibrations. You could never do a a full days work fencing or framing with a recipe saw without exceeding your allowed vibrations.

Builders who did our extension (9 years ago now, dear god where has that time gone!) did pretty much all the framing and roofing with a 165mm Makita, the real big stuff they broke the corded one out or big chop saw, but I’d say the vast majority was done with the little battery saw - they reckoned it was their most used power tool, and was what convinced me I needed the Bosch one!

 

[Agrismith]

Builders who did our extension (9 years ago now, dear god where has that time gone!) did pretty much all the framing and roofing with a 165mm Makita, the real big stuff they broke the corded one out or big chop saw, but I’d say the vast majority was done with the little battery saw - they reckoned it was their most used power tool, and was what convinced me I needed the Bosch one!

Most farmers I know do the same. I use to do all the shuttering on site with a little Makita.
8 batteries would run a circular saw, drill, 2 impacts and radio for a day.

 

[sako243]

I must say that our neighbour who is a carpenter and a roofer will use a small Makita battery circular saw (not sure on diameter but it's smaller than my Milwaukee circular saw). He's cutting day in and day out with it and will rip a sheet of ply down following a pencil line freehand as accurately as I can do using a guide.

He'll use it and a small square to cut 2x4s and 2x6s most of the time. The only time he'll break out a chop saw is if he's doing a lot of framing and it's worth setting it up as a dedicated chop station.

 

[daleyd]

Most farmers I know do the same. I use to do all the shuttering on site with a little Makita.
8 batteries would run a circular saw, drill, 2 impacts and radio for a day.

I watched John (the builder) trimming the rafters for the garage one after the other, using the makita circular saw - that’s when I got chatting with him about it, and how much of a game changer it was for them. Having it on roofs with no cords/extensions or having to drop the wood to the ground for cuts he reckoned was such a time saver.

They were using it professionally, I’m playing at it but I reckoned if it was good enough for them…

 

[TEO]

Builders who did our extension (9 years ago now, dear god where has that time gone!) did pretty much all the framing and roofing with a 165mm Makita, the real big stuff they broke the corded one out or big chop saw, but I’d say the vast majority was done with the little battery saw - they reckoned it was their most used power tool, and was what convinced me I needed the Bosch one!

I have the Bosch one too, excellent tool, fits all the tracks I have & most of the time now I don't bother with the corded versions of either plunge or circular saws.

 

[oldbikedavey]

Have to admit to having bought a corded MacAllister item in B & Q today, and have to say that it doesn't seem toooooooooo ghastly.
Has a laser guide setup, will cut 65mm deep, and only cost forty quid.
That isn't so terrible, and it'll likely do a reasonably competent turn......

 

[daleyd]

I have the Bosch one too, excellent tool, fits all the tracks I have & most of the time now I don't bother with the corded versions of either plunge or circular saws.

I got the Bosch one as I already had the drill and batteries. Great bit of kit, my old corded one was bigger and more powerful but haven’t really found the battery one wanting.

 

[Endeleus]

What do you plan doing with it, I was all ready to use my circular saw to rip some flooring, then the guy who came to lend a hand pulled out his plunge saw....... I now want one,
Same as circular saw but sits on a track, which does not move, lay it down on the marks and cut, I have seen me using a straight edge and clamps, once you have your sizes from which side of the rest your cutting from its a scutter in comparison tbh.

I concur with this - I invested in a plunge saw and track a couple of years ago as only ever had a corded circular saw before - not only have I found it's great for cutting hatches in flooring, etc - but I've been surprised how many jobs I do with the track saw now that previously I would have set up the table saw for.