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Cato
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The clean up and bring back to life continues, hopefully it'll be firing up over the weekend (possibly next week 
)
A 48 year old Tillotson (Ohio, USA) HR carburettor is a bit of a rare bird in the UK.
The seized and rather crusty pull start mechanism needed some attention. The cord had become part of the pulley.
)A 48 year old Tillotson (Ohio, USA) HR carburettor is a bit of a rare bird in the UK.
The seized and rather crusty pull start mechanism needed some attention. The cord had become part of the pulley.
Memmeddu
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Rust blued the leaf/ladder sight.
I've kept repeating the rusting and boiling till it eventually wouldn't even rust anymore.
Had little problems boiling, I've understood that the heat wasn't enough to make the water boiling, or better it was boiling but not as hot as I wanted.
So I've removed the household LPG regulator came with the little Elto plumbing torch and hooked up the Harris propane regulator from my cutting torch.
0.8Bar just like on the cutting torch and got the water boiling very quickly.
Once at the right temperature I've left boiling for 20 minutes.
Removed the parts from the water and lightly buffed using paper towel I should have used denim but it's worked anyways.
Covered the parts using 2 stroke synthetic oil.
Heated them up a bit using an heat gun.
That was about an half hour ago.
I've had dinner and now I'm going to, detach the regulator from the propane tank, put it back to its place, remove the eccessive oil and let it dry overnight.
If everything goes well it'll be finished and installed during the weekend
Cato
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The points on both engines look to be in really good condition, so presumably the condenser innards have degraded over time, haven't we all.
The Bosch equivalent is 1-217-330-064 so I've contacted a mate who works for Bosch to see if he can get hold of some. It's an American/Canadian part number equivalent to the condensers for Rotax, Kohler etc. and the usual sources in the UK don't carry them. If he can't get them he may be able to sort me out an equivalent European number.
Half the battle with old machinery is sorting out a cross reference or equivalent from purely paper based part numbers to the modern world stuff.
The Bosch equivalent is 1-217-330-064 so I've contacted a mate who works for Bosch to see if he can get hold of some. It's an American/Canadian part number equivalent to the condensers for Rotax, Kohler etc. and the usual sources in the UK don't carry them. If he can't get them he may be able to sort me out an equivalent European number.
Half the battle with old machinery is sorting out a cross reference or equivalent from purely paper based part numbers to the modern world stuff.
Red'n'Black
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As I'm not a fan of keyhole surgery it's out with the puller and time for "creak, creak, bang!".
View attachment 523611View attachment 523610
Whilst we're on the subject...
Every time I come to work on this sort of generator, it goes OK until I try to get the rotor back on the shaft.
Keyway facing upwards, fit Woodruff key. Offer up rotor, giving it a bit of side-to-side so I can feel when it's lined up as I'm working blind at this point. Get it part way on, then the magnets pull it out of my hand and it sticks to the stator. Key falls off into the works and/or sticks to the magnet. Or it all goes on smoothly, but the key gets pushed out the back and the rotor is on, but not locked.
Swear, rinse and repeat a few times. I've always got them on in the end, but come close to launching it across the yard. What am I missing?
Cato
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Patience?
On a serious note, you get everything set up then sort of brace your wrists/elbows in anticipation of the 'snatch'. I've also seen people do it with 3 wedges around the outside. Set two at 5 and 7 o'clock, sit the flywheel on them and tip it in with one sitting on it at 12 o'clock.
However you do it you just have to get a firm hold and go steady.
Red'n'Black
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Patience?
On a serious note, you get everything set up then sort of brace your wrists/elbows in anticipation of the 'snatch'. I've also seen people do it with 3 wedges around the outside. Set two at 5 and 7 o'clock, sit the flywheel on them and tip it in with one sitting on it at 12 o'clock.
However you do it you just have to get a firm hold and go steady.
Ok then, sounds like it's just me
I was wondering if there was some Special Tool for the job. At work we had a similar problem when we started assembling big BLDC motors with a permanent magnet rotor. The magnet was strong enough to take your fingers off if you weren't careful.
The immediate fix was to build a fixture to lower the rotor into the stator using an arbor press, so you had a bit of control over it. They were still a bit twitchy about the H&S aspects so the long-term fix was to sub the whole job out.
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Some of the early robots I worked on had permanent magnet motors and they would have your fingers if you weren't careful.Ok then, sounds like it's just me
I was wondering if there was some Special Tool for the job. At work we had a similar problem when we started assembling big BLDC motors with a permanent magnet rotor. The magnet was strong enough to take your fingers off if you weren't careful.
The immediate fix was to build a fixture to lower the rotor into the stator using an arbor press, so you had a bit of control over it. They were still a bit twitchy about the H&S aspects so the long-term fix was to sub the whole job out.
Cato
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Doing similar on large stuff in the past you'd have a tube that screwed onto the thread and was flush with the small end of the taper so that you could slide the flywheel along it. That way it couldn't pull far enough to the side to cause any bother.Ok then, sounds like it's just me
I was wondering if there was some Special Tool for the job. At work we had a similar problem when we started assembling big BLDC motors with a permanent magnet rotor. The magnet was strong enough to take your fingers off if you weren't careful.
The immediate fix was to build a fixture to lower the rotor into the stator using an arbor press, so you had a bit of control over it. They were still a bit twitchy about the H&S aspects so the long-term fix was to sub the whole job out.
We make big claims of our ethical business operation, and how good our H&S is.
Then farm out the dangerous stuff so the accident and lost working days is in someone's else's record
Cato
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I suspect that's a factor in off shoring stuff, H&S, working hours, labour laws etc can be ignored.
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Last place I worked at farmed a lot of stuff out we were quite capable of doing ourselves, the reason was if it caused a loss of production they could blame/charge an outside supplier instead of losing their bonus if it was an in house problem.
